normal operating temperature? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 02-21-2010, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
linusb
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normal operating temperature?

I replaced my temp sending unit and my radiator today. My YJ is new to me. Temp gauge was not working previously but is working now. Operating temp seems to be 220-230 range. Is that ok? Motor is I6.


1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #2 of 23 Old 02-21-2010, 04:18 PM
wyattarnall
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that is not ok u r risking engine damage and blowing hoses running that hot u shouldn't be getting hotter than 210. do u have a shroud around the engine fan?
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post #3 of 23 Old 02-21-2010, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
linusb
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Yes, I do have a shroud. I do need to make sure that I don't have any air in my system since I just replaced the rad. Any other reason it would run hot? Weather was about 65 degrees out today.

1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #4 of 23 Old 02-21-2010, 04:27 PM
wyattarnall
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thermostat not opening? or check for vaccum leaks around ur intake manifold, while it's running spray starting fluid around the intake ports and see if it bogs ur engine down.
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post #5 of 23 Old 02-21-2010, 05:33 PM
mario figueroa
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Check your fan clutch front stat,if it is oily replace it.
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post #6 of 23 Old 02-22-2010, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
linusb
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Would replacing the thermostat with a lower temperature one work to lower my engine temperature?

1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #7 of 23 Old 02-22-2010, 06:18 PM
sitdwnandhngon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linusb View Post
Would replacing the thermostat with a lower temperature one work to lower my engine temperature?
It may mask and underlying problem for a while.

With the motor off (obviously) check both the fan shaft and fan clutch for a wobble or wear. If the shaft is moving or you are leaking fluid from behind the water pump then the water pump is bad.

If the fan blades wobble on the shaft and spin without any resistance then the clutch is going bad.

With a 190 thermostat my engine never goes about 210, even on the hottest summer days.

Also like you said try purge the air from the system take the radiator cap off and run the motor until the thermostat opens and watch for big bubbles to come out, be careful not to get burned.

I can't bear the thought of losing, I dread the attention winning brings

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Originally Posted by northjeep View Post
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post #8 of 23 Old 02-22-2010, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
linusb
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Thanks for the tips. Fan and clutch seem good...there is good resistance when trying to spin by hand...only moving a few inches when spun freely. No signs of any leaks at pump or clutch. I'm pretty sure I have all the air out of the system but if it's anything like my BMW was, it took a week to get it all bled out. In the case of the BMW the problem of an air bubble was a lot more obvious as the temperature gauge would spike and drop within a few seconds.

If none of that works I'll run a new thermostat and see what happens. When a thermostat fails, is one type of failure not opening all the way?

1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #9 of 23 Old 02-22-2010, 07:40 PM
sitdwnandhngon
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Yes, and you can actually test it. Put it in a pan of water on the stove and get a meat thermometer. Then watch for it to open between 180 and 200. If it doesn't you may need a new one.

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post #10 of 23 Old 02-22-2010, 10:15 PM
MJMPC
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Where on the motor was the temp sensor you replaced?

MIKE


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post #11 of 23 Old 02-23-2010, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
linusb
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It's at the back of the motor...it's the stock sensor location. Sensor is new, original gauge.

1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #12 of 23 Old 01-29-2011, 05:40 PM
argo77
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I have the same problem man. I have new water pump, new thermostat. I flashed the system and bled all air out of the system. It runs about 225 F when the jeep is idle. I didnt know what to do anymore. I am going to replace the clutch on the fan. My buddy told me that on the idle at 7-800 rpms, the water that flows through the system at the low pressure. When you give it more gas and your rpm increase more water flows through the cooling system and it cools it down faster.

Let me know what works for you.
Thanks,
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post #13 of 23 Old 01-29-2011, 07:18 PM
Que89YJ
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You need to burp it. If you allowed air into your cooling system the air needs to get out.230 is hot but shouldn't blow your engine. Burping it.
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post #14 of 23 Old 01-29-2011, 08:33 PM
GottaYJ
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Was the sending unit oem or aftermarket, because there have been several threads with malfunctioning aftermarket units that read high when the temp is really within the normal range.
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post #15 of 23 Old 01-29-2011, 09:24 PM
argo77
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You know guys you are correct. I had to rebuild the head. I bought the after market temperature sender and it jumps like crazy. What is the best way of burping it? I am afraid to blow a hose or overheat the engine.
Thanks a lot for your help,
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