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GreyfoxVt 10-07-2008 08:02 AM

*NEW* YJ Rough Country 2.5" Suspension Lift
Ok boys, I finally decided to go with a new suspension lift for my YJ, and choose the new Rough Country 2.5" spring upgrade kit. I ordered it online from Ryan (Rough Country) rep from this site, who gave me a great deal, and has been very helpful in the whole process.

I thought I would document the process for the rest of you who are thinking about this install, and place some well positioned photos for your understanding.

The look I started with before installing the lift. You could notice the FLAT stock springs ehich I had improved by adding 1 3/4" HD shackels to temp improve. When adding the list, I decided to leave them in for more clearance:


Prior to beginning this installation it is always good to use penetrating oil and spray all fasteners that will be removed.
Typically the spring eye bolts and the pitman arm are difficult to remove without having done this step.

Rear springs, Front Shocks, U-Bolt Replacements, Front springs, Rear Shocks


1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support with safety stands under the frame rails. ** Take care not to over extend the stock brake lines. **

2. Remove the top bolt from the traction bar to allow the axle free movement during the install.

3. Remove the front wheels and tires. Remove stock shocks. Retain the lower shock bolt hardware for reuse.

4. Support the front axle housing with a floor jack (you must have stands under frame supporting vehicle weight).

5. Remove the stock sway bar links from the sway bar and the spring pads. It may be necessary to tap the upper link on the sway bar with a hammer to release the tapered pin.

6. Unbolt track bar from the housing on the passenger side of the front axle as and then tie the bar up and out of the way.

7. Remove the four front springs to axle u-bolts. (The remainder of the spring removal and installation is performed one side at a time.)

8. On the driver side position a floor jack under the axle tube, just inside of the leaf spring. Raise the jack until the axle just separates from the spring. Now remove the frame bolts and the shackle bolts on the leaf spring. Remove the stock spring. Retain shock plate hardware for re-use. Repeat on the other side.

9. Prior to installation of new springs, thoroughly lubricate the new spring poly eye bushings and sleeves with a water resistant, lithium based grease. Loosely attach the spring (front spring part number is 8010) to its hangers, snug up but do not completely tighten. Make sure spring tie bolt heads align and seat into spring perch holes.

10. While installing new u-bolts, put one bump stop extension snubber onto top of axle tubes. (The bumpstops are captured by the u-bolts). Tighten u-bolts to 65ft. lbs. of torque. Tighten spring pivot bolts to 35ft. lbs. On both frame mounts and shackle mounts.

11. To install new tracking bar bracket onto front axle housing on the passenger side, place the track bar bracket on the stock mount where the flange matches with the stock flange on the right side of the bracket. Install supplied 12mm x 2 “long bolt, washer and flange lock nut to secure. (Torque to 45ft/lbs). Using the hole in the new bracket as a guide, drill a 3/8" hole through the stock flange of the track bar housing. Install the 3/8” x 1 1/4" bolt, washer and 3/8" flange lock nut. (Torque to 35 ft/lbs).

12. Attach tracking bar to bracket using 12mm x 2 ” bolt, flat washer and 12mm flange lock nut. (Torque 12mm bolts to 45 ft. lbs.)

13. Assemble and install new front shock absorbers. Tighten upper stem type mounts only until bushings swell slightly – do not over-tighten, torque lower mounts to 45 ft lbs.

14. Locate the provided bushings, and sleeves in 7593 bag and install into the new sway bar link. Install the new sway bar link in the lower factory location on the stud with stock nut and using the supplied 12mm x 65mm bolts, washers/nuts on the upper mount.

15. Install new brake line relocating brackets in stock hole reusing the T45 torx head bolt on frame rail. Pull steel line out from the frame rail (Use caution when rerouting the steel line so you do not kink the line). Mount the line to the bracket using the 5/16” x 1” bolts, washers and flange lock nut.

16. Do not tighten the springs at this time. The spring hardware will be tightened once the vehicle is on the ground and the suspension has been cycled. Tightening the hardware at this time with the vehicle off the ground could result in a stiff ride.

17. Install tires/wheels; remove jack stands and lower vehicle to floor. Tighten the front spring’s shackle to 95ft.lbs. and the stationary end to 105ft. lbs.


1. Chock the front tires and jack up the vehicle. Place safety jack stands under rear frame rails.

2. Remove the retainer clip that attaches the stock rubber brake hose to its upper mount bracket. This is where the rubber hose ends and the metal line starts on the driver side frame rail. Insert the new “Z” bracket in between the
stock mounting bracket and the hose end. The 5/16” x 1” bolt and flanged lock nut are used at the bracket to bracket end. Position the hose/line through the slot and into the hole on the “Z” bracket’s opposite end and then reinstall clip.

3. Disconnect rear track bar from frame rail on the passenger side of the vehicle to allow movement in rear axle during installation.

4. Prior to installation of new springs, thoroughly lubricate the new spring poly eye bushings and sleeves with a water resistant, lithium based grease. Install new springs with shims. (Torque u-bolts 65ft. lbs.) The bump-stop extension bracket will install under the U-bolts as on the front. When installing the springs the thick part of shim goes toward front of jeep.

Do not fully tighten the springs and the track bar to factory specs until the vehicle is on the ground. Tightening before the weight is on the vehicle may prevent the shackles from moving to their natural position
and result in the arched spring being pinned forward against the frame.

5. Assemble the rear shock absorbers. Part# 657341 with loop bushings and corresponding sleeves and install shocks, torque upper and lower mounts to 45ft. lbs.

6. Install tires; remove jack stands and lower vehicle to floor. Tighten the shackle to 95 ft. lbs. and the frame end to 105ftlbs. Install/tighten track bar into drop down bracket with the factory hardware.


1. Place floor jack under transmission mount skid plate. Make sure the jack is centered.

2. Using a floor jack, support the skid plate.

3. Slightly loosen the bolts on the transfer case skid plate on both sides to allow for some movement. Do not remove the bolts.

4. Proceed to either side. NOTE: Do not attempt to take out the bolts on both sides simultaneously. Installation is done one side at a time. Remove the three bolts holding the transfer case skid plate to the frame rail. Note: It
may be necessary to loosen the bolts holding the transfer case to the skid plate to allow for movement to install the lowering spacers on the skid plate.

5. Locate transfer case cap plug bag and install in the transfer case spacer. Slightly lower the skid plate and insert the transfer case lowering spacer. The spacer has a front and back (the holes line up in only one direction). When the transfer case is dropped it will tend to move forward, to get the new bolts to align with holes in frame rail you will probably have to push the transfer case skid plate towards the back of the vehicle or loosen the transmission mount bolts on the bottom of the skid plate.

6. Using the conical bolts supplied slightly tighten the bolts. Do not fully tighten to allow for some movement for the opposite side.

7. Proceed to the opposite side of the vehicle and install the brackets as instructed above. After installing both sides, tighten bolts– do not over tighten.

8. It may be necessary to remove some material from the body underneath the shifter on the manual shift models to allow clearance for shifting into all gears. To accomplish this, remove the shifter boot from the shifter. Go through the shift pattern and note where the shifter is coming in contact with the body. Remove approximately ”- 3/8” of material from the body with a small grinder. Generally the gears affected are 2nd, 4th and reverse. Go through the shift pattern again and note any contact. Trim accordingly. Reinstall the boot and secure.


1. Check all fasteners for proper torque. Check to ensure there is adequate clearance between all rotating, mobile, fixed and heated members. Check steering gear for interference and proper working order. Test brakes.

2. Verify the angle of the driveshaft. This is an important step to keep vibrations down. If you have vibration, you have three choices, add a Transfer Case Drop Kit, add engine mount shims, or add a Slip Yoke Eliminator. Notice the difference in the driveshaft length? (silver on shaft)

3. Perform steering sweep. Check to ensure brake hoses have sufficient slack and will not contact rotating, mobile, or fixed members, adjust lines/brackets to eliminate interference and maintain proper working order. Failure to erform inspections may result in component failure.

4. If larger tires (10% or larger than stock) are installed, speedometer recalibration is necessary.

5. Bump stops and extensions must be in place on all vehicles! Note: allowing suspension to over extend by neglecting to install or maintain stops and extensions may cause serious damage to related components.

6. Re torque all fasteners after 500 miles. Visually inspect components and re torque fasteners during routine vehicle service.

7. Using an certified alignment professional with experience in aligning lifted vehicles, get an alignment done to factory specifications.

8. Readjust headlights to proper settings.


It is the buyer’s ultimate responsibility to have all bolts/nuts checked for tightness after the first 100 miles and then every 1000 miles. A qualified professional mechanic must inspect wheel alignment steering system, suspension and driveline systems at least every 3000 miles.

Finished project:

smoke_20 10-07-2008 09:38 AM

How much lift did you actually gain? Please post some more pics as it settles.

GreyfoxVt 10-07-2008 09:43 AM

I will be posting more information as time passes, it has gained over 4", because my original springs were flat, and I have 1 3/4" HD shackles. I am hoping it settles a bit more, but for now, I am jumping up to get into the rig, (and I really like it!).

I have also decided to add extended, braided brake lines for safety purposes, the factroy ones are just too short.

Rough Country 10-07-2008 09:53 AM

You have a pm

SimonTuffGuy 10-07-2008 11:23 AM

Great pictures and walk through... I just placed my order with Ryan for my 2.5" lift... :) :) :)

GreyfoxVt 10-07-2008 12:13 PM

FYI Update to Install Instructions
I was photographing the installation, and made a mistake. Ryan has informed me I placed the rear shocks upside down, and I have since corrected this, as seen here.

Please excuse my mistake, and get it right the first time... :shhh:

SimonTuffGuy 10-07-2008 03:04 PM

Did you have to use brake line extensions or anything with your lift? Comparing the RC to a RE 2.5, the RE comes with brake line extensions... Just trying to piece everything together for when install day comes.

And how is ride quality? Stiff or bumpy like I heard in the past? Or is it comparable or better than stock?

GreyfoxVt 10-07-2008 03:46 PM

I had to purchase the brake line extensions seperatly, and decided to use the braided version which gave me an extra 6" of line.

The cost was $45.00 for for front, and $40.00 for rear. A cheaper solution would be the $15.00 metal extensions from Quadratec.

These would not be necessary for the normal 2.5" but because of the extended shackles, I was exceeding the normal length, and I also added quick discos which increased the need for longer lines.

Rough Country 10-07-2008 03:54 PM

You should have called me I have the lines too and I could have put a package that would have beat that price.

UltimateCC 10-11-2008 01:08 PM

I can't wait to order mine...

2_jeeps 10-11-2008 02:13 PM

I like the look dude i am thinking of getting the same lift.

What did you pay if you dont mind me asking?

95wrangler4life 10-21-2008 05:02 PM

Vendor is post #4 for price quotes!

turdbkt 10-22-2008 07:48 PM

I just got the same kit and found your sight, did you put shackles front & rear? Im gussing the transfer case drop kit is extra ?

geo1400 04-22-2009 02:01 PM

This is a great thread but i'm just wondering... the RC instalation instructions seems to be a little simpler without the TC drop etc. I have a stock YJ and considering this 2.5" lift but have 2 questions:

1) Will I need to TC drop and do the brake lines (considering my YJ is stock)

2) Any special tools (if you need air tools i'm out, don't have that!) and how many axle stands trolley jacks do you end up using?


bradyman1 04-22-2009 02:08 PM

I just ordered mine!! Nice looking jeep.

The time now is 10:45 PM.

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