New Switch Panel I'm making for the YJ - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
92 Green YJ
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New Switch Panel I'm making for the YJ

So with the rain and nasty weather and the aquisition of an ARB mini compressor to run my ARB (tired of having to run my OBA all the time with the leaks so I can lock up when I need to) I decided it was a good time to go ahead and make up a new switch panel for the YJ. Here is my original panel that I have in the YJ now


As you can see, 2 aviation toggle switches, the ARB switch, 6 stock style switches to run various accessories, and 2 air pressure gauges. One for the whole OBA system, and one for the line going to my ARB.

Now that I have the mini compressor I have to add another ARB switch and I can eliminate the pressure gauge going to the locker. The original panel was out of Stainless which looks great but was a royal pain to do the switch cut outs, especially for the stock style rectangular switches. So I sat down and made a list of all my various accessories. I have a bunch of stock switches floating around, but I really hated cutting the holes for them. the last plate took me a few days just of cutting the switch holes.

So I decided to go Aluminum for the plate, and go aviation style toggles with (suprise suprise) green LEDS to indicate power on. Went to IMS and got some aluminum sheet (on sale at that) cut a piece out that was 4.5"s by 16"s. Layed my switch holes out an inch apart and started drilling. Once I had the holes I bent the top inch over to mount to the bottom of my dash.

Now I realize the switches aren't all the same. Went to Kragen again today and got 3 more, waiting for them to re-order so I can get the last 3 I need. They are all 20 amp toggle switches with screw style terminals on them. I also took apart my 12voltguy in cab winch control panel and installed the switches from that in the new panel as well, Along with a single air pressure gauge to monitor my OBA system pressure. I was going to do 12 switches but when it was all said and done I had room for one more so I went ahead and added a 13th. So I have 2 empty switches for future modifications.

I know the DYmo labels are a bit goofy but they will work until I order some proper labels from the 12volt guy like whats on the arm switch for the winch control. And I am also irritatated by the gouging around the pressure gauge. the hole saw skipped when I raised the drill press. Not sure how to fix it and I don't feel like making a whole new plate so I guess i'll just run with it.

overall shot


back side view. That was a LOT of soldering!!


and with the labels on







so what do you all think?

oh and the ARB compressor and locker switch is getting moved to the switch cut outs in the dash as all I need to do there is enlarge the stock holes a bit, and that leaves one blank for when I get around to adding an ARB up front


92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #2 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:05 PM
msprooch
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If thats the cage for the build behind it I think your measurements where off.
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post #3 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
92 Green YJ
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lol. Neah, thats the tube chassis for the EMAXX based RC Crawler I'm building. I had just finished coating it with some weld thru primer

92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #4 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:15 PM
SeanB95YJ
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looks great... a couple ideas

for the spot where the hole saw messed up, you could sand and/or polish that out to whatever sheen you want... BUT.. it would require you to dismount all the switches so you could get the whole panel uniform. Start with 320 or 400 grit, and go progressively finer until you get it the sheen you want.

For the labels - I don't know if Dymo has them available... I have a Brother P-touch (similar type of thermal tape) and I know for Brother, they have different color labels available... different backgrounds (white, black, metallics, clear) and different color letters (white, black, yellow and I think red too).... I know they definitely make a clear with black lettering (at least the red from the cover would show through) but I don't know if they make the clear with white to match your winch cover. Might be worth looking into though.

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread:
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:22 PM
SeanB95YJ
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DYMO Global

these are the D1 labels - about 3/4 way down the page, they do show a 1/2" tape, clear with white type

don't know which machine you have, so I don't know if those are the right cartridges, but it's a start.

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:25 PM
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Ya, it looks good though. Its a jeep not a benz. I would rock it just as is. Although as an electrical engineering student I would have put some heat shrink around those joints, but you probably don't want to un solder everything.
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post #7 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:28 PM
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thats a lot of switches haha. but i like the overall setup
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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around what joints? I heat shrank everything!! the LED positive leads have ring terminals crimped and soldered to the ends with heat shrink over them. Same with the power lead wires. then they are screwed onto the terminal ends. The lot of soldering I was refering to was the LEDs, resistors, wire extensions, etc.

and thanks for the heads up on the DYmo carts. the one I have is actually in the pics. 12volt guy has the same style lables as whats on the winch arm switch for like 69 cents a piece though, so I may go that route

92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #9 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ View Post
around what joints? I heat shrank everything!! the LED positive leads have ring terminals crimped and soldered to the ends with heat shrink over them. Same with the power lead wires. then they are screwed onto the terminal ends. The lot of soldering I was refering to was the LEDs, resistors, wire extensions, etc.

and thanks for the heads up on the DYmo carts. the one I have is actually in the pics. 12volt guy has the same style lables as whats on the winch arm switch for like 69 cents a piece though, so I may go that route
Sorry, now I see that those "joints" are screws. Sorry, you did good.
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post #10 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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thanks. Its hard to see in the pics. I've done my fair os shoddy electrical back in the day but I learned my lesson. Everything has fuses and relays these days. Crimp, solder and heat shrink all my connections, etc. I don't play around with my electrical work anymore

92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 07:01 PM
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Can I see a sort of short diagram on how that's wired for the LEDs sake? Just one switch diagram would be cool.
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post #12 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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didn't make a diagram. I used the LED calculator found here:
LED series parallel array wizard

I put in the numbers it asked for. 1 LED with the forward voltage and forward current ratings for the LEDs I bought. used 12 volts for the input voltage then went and bought the resistors it recomended. Per the array designer I soldered the appropriate resistors to the negative leads on all 12 LEDs then wired all the negative leads with the resistors on them together so I have just one ground wire for the switch panel. each LED has a short, small gauge wire soldered to the + lead of the LED with a ring terminal crimped and soldered onto it. that ring terminal is attached to the load terminal on the switch. So when the switch is activated and the circuit is completed, the LED will light to indicate that the circuit is on

92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #13 of 18 Old 01-20-2010, 07:28 PM
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These are those vinyl rub on "chartpak" letters.
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post #14 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
92 Green YJ
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and where might one locate those chartpak letters??

92 YJ. High Output 4.0L
Rubicon Express 4" Lift Kit, 2" Body Lift,15x8" AR 767s, 35x12.50 Xterrains, Home Made Snorkel, Sanden OBA, Home made rocker gaurds. 8.8 Rear with Discs, 4.10s F&R, ARB rear, Detroit EZ Locker front, WarnM8000 with Viking Synthetic Line, Beadlocks, Tons of Mods
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 11:59 AM
Fhajad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 92 Green YJ View Post
didn't make a diagram. I used the LED calculator found here:
LED series parallel array wizard

I put in the numbers it asked for. 1 LED with the forward voltage and forward current ratings for the LEDs I bought. used 12 volts for the input voltage then went and bought the resistors it recomended. Per the array designer I soldered the appropriate resistors to the negative leads on all 12 LEDs then wired all the negative leads with the resistors on them together so I have just one ground wire for the switch panel. each LED has a short, small gauge wire soldered to the + lead of the LED with a ring terminal crimped and soldered onto it. that ring terminal is attached to the load terminal on the switch. So when the switch is activated and the circuit is completed, the LED will light to indicate that the circuit is on
So is it this roughly?

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