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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:07 AM   #1
Obcean2
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new suspension hates me

I installed a Rancho 2.5 inch lift and shocks nearly a year ago, and now my Jeep beats me to death on trails. It is bad enough that I actually consider NOT going on trail rides with my friends or just riding shotgun with one of them. Is it possible to screw up the installation so badly that it rides like a tank? It seems that if I had put it in wrong, I would have known right away when everything fell off, and that hasn't happened. Are Rancho lifts known for giving a rough ride? How can I make this better?

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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:17 AM   #2
geusey
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Do you still have track bars and the sway bar? if you haven't already, take out your track bars and pick up some sway bar disconnects, or just take of the sway bar, whichever you are more comfortable with.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:33 AM   #3
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what are sway bar disconnects? does it make the sway bar able to come off and back on when not on trails? furthermore whats the difference between no sway bars and sway bar disconnects sorry. sorry, Jeep noob
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:40 AM   #4
geusey
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Originally Posted by Phrankoff View Post
what are sway bar disconnects? does it make the sway bar able to come off and back on when not on trails? furthermore whats the difference between no sway bars and sway bar disconnects sorry. sorry, Jeep noob
ok, sway bar disconnects allow you to disconnect your sway bar for trail riding, which well really help off road ride and flex. Some people take off the sway bar altogether and save some money. Track bars connect your axle to your frame, keeping it in place. Most people agree that they are unnecesarry on a stock jeep, and on a lifted jeep, they do nothing but keep your suspension from flexing like it should. Take em off. Look up how to do it on this forum, lots of people have done it an done write ups on it, but its an easy, 2 bolt operation. Good luck!
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:45 AM   #5
Wheelman286
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On-road at least... Rancho isn't supposed to do that. My 18 year old Rancho 2" still feels almost as stiff as sports car suspension but at the same time... almost as smooth as the suspension in my Blazer S10 Tahoe LT (which was pretty much the first touring SUV ever by the way). I used to take right turns at over 20 MPH with very little body roll.

Off-road mine is rougher but I really don't have a point of comparison other than the very little I have been off-road in the Blazer... which has the original suspension.

Also... I have never removed my track and sway bars so I can't tell you on that.
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Last edited by Wheelman286; 04-16-2010 at 12:14 PM..
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:48 AM   #6
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Retorque your spring shackle bolts to 45-50 FT/LBS might heip.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:56 AM   #7
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Have you tried to re-torque your bolts?
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Unread 04-16-2010, 11:57 AM   #8
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Retorque your spring shackle bolts to 45-50 FT/LBS might heip.
Sorry, you beat be to it!
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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:30 PM   #9
jdarg
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If you tightened the bolts before it was back on the ground then yeah, it could be riding crappy because of that. It may have preloaded the bushings so they are biased towards downtravel and they are really resisting further up travel.

Loosen up the three nuts on each leaf spring/shackle so they are loose but won't come off, drive it around the block slowly so things settle back to neutral, then retorque to 40-50 lbs + use locktite like others have suggested.

Also make sure the shocks are oriented the right way. That will give a rough ride too if they are upside down.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:39 PM   #10
Obcean2
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Now it is good to hear from Mike in E'town, Kentucky again! Of course, I am thankful to everyone for the help so far. I really appreciate it. I did wonder about the track/sway bars. It sounds like I better go read the arguments...er....discussions about them again. Regarding the torque issue, I thought that I had torque problems because I just cranked those bolts on until I was tired of doing it, which didn't seem like the most intelligent thing ...... I asked a buddy about it and he acted like I was a little dumb for thinking that the bolt torque could have anything to do with it, so I just let it go since I didn't understand it either. Is anyone willing to give me an elementary physics lesson explaining why it matters how tightly my springs are bolted to the axle? I have a horrible feeling that it should be painfully obvious, but I really don't get it. Thanks!
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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:46 PM   #11
Obcean2
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Originally Posted by jdarg View Post
If you tightened the bolts before it was back on the ground then yeah, it could be riding crappy because of that. It may have preloaded the bushings so they are biased towards downtravel and they are really resisting further up travel.

Loosen up the three nuts on each leaf spring/shackle so they are loose but won't come off, drive it around the block slowly so things settle back to neutral, then retorque to 40-50 lbs + use locktite like others have suggested.

Also make sure the shocks are oriented the right way. That will give a rough ride too if they are upside down.
Yep....I sure did tighten them up when the jeep was up in the air. I will try your method to make everything go back to neutral. Any recommendations on the best type and brand of torque wrench?

Regarding the shocks...I have seen them both ways, so I have to say that I really don't know which way should be up. I looked at some of the catalogs and pictures on JF before I did installed them, and I swear that I saw both ways there as well. I vaguely remember calling 4WD Parts and asking, and I did whatever they said. It seems that now is the time to be totally embarrassed and ask, "Does the boot go up or down on Rancho 5000's"?
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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJMPC View Post
Retorque your spring shackle bolts to 45-50 FT/LBS might heip.
do this!
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Unread 04-16-2010, 01:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obcean2 View Post
Regarding the torque issue, I thought that I had torque problems because I just cranked those bolts on until I was tired of doing it, which didn't seem like the most intelligent thing ...... I asked a buddy about it and he acted like I was a little dumb for thinking that the bolt torque could have anything to do with it, so I just let it go since I didn't understand it either. Is anyone willing to give me an elementary physics lesson explaining why it matters how tightly my springs are bolted to the axle? I have a horrible feeling that it should be painfully obvious, but I really don't get it. Thanks!
The springs have to rotate slightly to droop on each side, too tight of shackle bolts prevents this. It also makes it more difficult for the shackle to rotate, which makes it harder for the springs to flex up and down.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 01:36 PM   #14
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........... Is anyone willing to give me an elementary physics lesson explaining why it matters how tightly my springs are bolted to the axle? ............

The bolts that hold the spring to the axle are the U-bolts, and that is NOT what needs to be retorqued. The ones that you need to retorque are the shackle bolts, and spring hanger bolts. There are 2 shackle bolts, and 1 spring hanger bolt per spring. If they are over tightened, the bushings will compress to much, and not allow the shackle to swing freely, which will give you a stiff ride.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 01:59 PM   #15
Obcean2
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Originally Posted by muddy93 View Post
The bolts that hold the spring to the axle are the U-bolts, and that is NOT what needs to be retorqued. The ones that you need to retorque are the shackle bolts, and spring hanger bolts. There are 2 shackle bolts, and 1 spring hanger bolt per spring. If they are over tightened, the bushings will compress to much, and not allow the shackle to swing freely, which will give you a stiff ride.
Holy Crap! Thanks for clarifying that. That makes sense to me now. I have only been thinking u bolts...even though there tons of hints that I just flat out missed. So...does torque matter on those u bolts or should they just be on there tight enough to make sure that they don't come off. And while we are on that subject, should I put cotter pins in the ends of the u bolts? Is there a torque spec for the u bolts? I can't thank you guys enough for clearing up all of my suspension issues!
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