new shackles - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
chuck172
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new shackles

I'd like to replace my shackles, bushings, bolts. I don't want any lift, just stock height but heavier duty if possible.
Whats' available?

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post #2 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 08:45 AM
tom_sprecher
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Make your own for $21.


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post #3 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 08:48 AM
voz
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greaseable?

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post #4 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 11:28 AM
JeeperDon
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Stock shackles are 4" between bolt centers. At 4", there is really not much room for the cross braces you see on most after market shackles, and those shown above. The only way to get stronger is buy/make some of thicker metal, but still two pieces per spring. Here is one possibility. I've gotten things from them, good place.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 12:34 PM
voz
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are greaseables worth the extra coin?

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post #6 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 12:44 PM
tom_sprecher
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The ones above are 5" shackles made of 3/8 x 2" flat. They can only be used in the front. The rears have no cross braces. Not enough room due to the frame.

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post #7 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 01:18 PM
USMCBuckWild
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I bought boomerangs from Beserk (?? Spellin) here on the forum. Work great thus far, no complaints.

91 YJ, 350/700R4/231, 8.8/HPD30 with 3.73s, 6" SOA with 38" TSLs. If I ever see the previous owner again, I am going to curb stomp that meth-head brain dead crackpot.
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 01:50 PM
JeeperDon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voz View Post
are greaseables worth the extra coin?
I had greasables for a while. I found the fittings being so exposed tend to get buggered. Now I'm used to just greasing up the regular bolts well, and redoing that every year or so. With nice clean bolts to start with, then greased, they come in/out easily as needed to re-grease.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #9 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 03:40 PM
Andywear
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perfect thread my front broke and was wondering if I could just make my own.
Question, why did he add center bracing, the originals dont have it.. prolly why they broke but they are also not .375"thk...

Pics of busted shackle


what should look like,


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post #10 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 03:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andywear View Post
perfect thread my front broke and was wondering if I could just make my own.
Question, why did he add center bracing, the originals dont have it.. prolly why they broke but they are also not .375"thk...
Having read some about shackles the center brace stiffens the action of the shackle. Without bracing you get more flex for off-road. With bracing makes the ride stiffer for the street.

You need enough shackle lift to use the braces. At 1/2" of shackle lift my homemade pieces with braces will work on the front, but not on the back. I'm also using greasable bolts with the zerks on the insides because I'm lazy.

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post #11 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 03:54 PM
USMCBuckWild
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The center bar will add stability/rigidity and take some of the stress off of the bolt head and nut that mounts to the bushing in the spring and in the frame. If the bar weren't there and the spring was forced laterally all the spring and axle weight/pressure would be applied directly to the outer bolt head. This way it sandwiches the bushing and helps transfer (share) the load across both plates.

91 YJ, 350/700R4/231, 8.8/HPD30 with 3.73s, 6" SOA with 38" TSLs. If I ever see the previous owner again, I am going to curb stomp that meth-head brain dead crackpot.
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post #12 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 03:58 PM
Andywear
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Good answer,
how many of these shackles have busted/broke at the bolt head/nut instead where mine did?

Used to have a good sig but Mod threated to ban me...


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post #13 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 05:13 PM
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Assuming you made your own 3/8" thick 4" shackle plates, I would think there is enough surface on the front of the front shackle to add maybe a 1.5"+ wide brace, which would not likely hit anything as the front shackle swings forward, and would not hit the frame as the front shackle swings backward. This would improve the on-road safety. In the back, I don't feel the brace is needed at all for safety since the quick forces of steering are only on the front.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #14 of 18 Old 03-04-2013, 09:32 PM
bowtech
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I use boomerang shackles and they softened my ride a little as well as working better on the trails.
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post #15 of 18 Old 03-05-2013, 08:01 AM
Flajeeper1
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An addition to what Don said. Use anti-seize on the bolt shafts and they will come apart a whole lot easier. I just regreased my suspension and it was quick and easy, no locked up parts.
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