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post #1 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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New Radiator

I think I need a new radiator. What is good radiator that is not too expensive but will give the cooling power to handle general jeep usage: road, highway, and off-road? I have an '89 YJ with 4.2L engine.

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post #2 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 09:24 AM
pasinbuy
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www.radiatorbarn.com they are very helpful, good prices, good radiators. Get the 2 core as the bare minimum.
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post #3 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Originally Posted by pasinbuy View Post
www.radiatorbarn.com they are very helpful, good prices, good radiators. Get the 2 core as the bare minimum.

I don't know much abotu radiators. what is the word on 2,3,4 core radiators. Aulimum vs. copper/bronze.
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post #4 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 09:35 AM
YJay92
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I paid $147.99 for an aluminum one at autozone, has a lifetime warranty.

1992 YJ, 4.0, auto, HP D30 w/TJ chromolys, 8.8 LSD, 4.10s, AA SYE, Tom Woods shaft, 5" lift, 35" MTZ's, 12k winch, Mark VIII fan, 136 amp alternator, TJ flares, custom snorkel and rock rails, no track bars or sway bar
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post #5 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 11:35 AM
moonshinefuel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
I don't know much abotu radiators. what is the word on 2,3,4 core radiators. Aulimum vs. copper/bronze.
What is the word, well, depends who you ask as it always does. If you ask me, 2 core minimum is good advice/all metal.
Aluminum vs copper/bronze;
Aluminum radiators are now commonly found with plastic end caps, capping off each side, top/bottom. Both of these materials have the propensity/possibility of cracking. Just ask anyone in the business who is willing to talk to you. Aluminum is a good material however for radiators, but possible problems inherent mentioned, turns me away from them. I have an Autozone lifetime radiator, it is my spare now. (limited lifetime). I asked an associate behind the counter how many he gets back on warrentee. He said, about two a week on average at his store. To him, he minimized that fact, and did not find it an issue. To me, that is not appealing at all. You will want and very possibly need the lifetime warrentee with an aluminum/plastic radiator, as they are frequently not repairable, or finding someone to repair it may not be easy either. For me, a radiator is not something I want to fail due to possible structural problems that have been known to occur, and the possible engine damage as a worst case scenario resulting. Take the advice, radiatorbarn, or similar, and go all metal. 2 or 3 row core is fine. Online is probably going to be your best price and availability.
Let me edit in that the Autozone radiator I bought and own as a spare, I was able to get it to fit, but, the bolt holes for the bottom of the fan shroud were not present in the brackets, you have to fabricate them in the side brackets, also there was only one bolt hole for the power steering pump reservoir mounting, where there should have been two.I got it to work, but had several extra bolts left over as there were no holes in brackets for them. I have not experienced anything like that with my all metal 3 row. A perfect fit on all accounts.
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post #6 of 19 Old 04-16-2011, 01:15 PM
oldtime_ironman
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Physics fact: copper/bronze has about 2x the thermal conductivity as aluminum. Mine is the original brass and I'd like to keep it that way.

Problem: copper/brass radiators tend to cost 2x as much, if you can even find them. But I think its worth it.
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-01-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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So right about now I'm putting my new radiator in. Finally, right?! LOL So I'm putting in a standard 2 core all metal. I bought it off radiator barn. I'm finding it difficult to get the screws, that hold radiator on, off. They have that funky flat-ish bolt/clip. Every time I turn the screw, the back rotates. The space is far too narrow for me to get my hand in there to hold it. Is there a special tool I need?

I can't imagine being able to get the new radiator back on since there is no room between the radiator and the grill. How have you guys remedied this problem?
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-01-2011, 06:38 PM
pasinbuy
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First remove the fan shroud. Then the radiator. No there are no special tools just keep at it.

I bought my radiator from radiator barn too. They make the best radiator with a great warranty.
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post #9 of 19 Old 07-01-2011, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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I did remove the shroud. Still I cant remove the screws, they just keep turning. I tried jamming a long flat head screwdriver in there but it wont hold the backing (Bolt/ Clip) down. I dont know what to do.
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post #10 of 19 Old 07-01-2011, 09:41 PM
kahanabob
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when i did my 92 i had to go in thru the front by spreading/bending the grill slats so i could get my hand in there with a tool, can't remember exactly what i did but got it apart then put it back together with bolt&nuts.
duno if that helps?
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-01-2011, 11:04 PM
imstillatwork
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The radiator, if damaged and being replaced, can be removed by taking the the actual radiator off of the mounting brackets, and forcing it out of the mounting brackets. 2 10mm bolts on each corner I think. Once youve done that, you can reach the stupid clips that rust and break and are a paint to get off.
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-02-2011, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kahanabob View Post
when i did my 92 i had to go in thru the front by spreading/bending the grill slats so i could get my hand in there with a tool, can't remember exactly what i did but got it apart then put it back together with bolt&nuts.
duno if that helps?
Yeah, I was thinking that's probably what I'll have to do. Total pain in the a$$!
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-02-2011, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imstillatwork View Post
The radiator, if damaged and being replaced, can be removed by taking the the actual radiator off of the mounting brackets, and forcing it out of the mounting brackets. 2 10mm bolts on each corner I think. Once youve done that, you can reach the stupid clips that rust and break and are a paint to get off.
Well I ended up doing what you suggested and I was able to get an additional screw off. I was thinking of getting it fixed and keep as a backup but I ended up damaging the side because I tried to wriggle it out. Too bad too, it was the original brass one.
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-02-2011, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Did I end up with the right radiator? I have a feeling I was sent the wrong one.

The new one appears to have two brass tubes protruding from the bottom. The Old one doesn't. If this is the right radiator, am I supposed to hook a hose to these brass fittings? Also the drain cock looks nothing like the old one. Not saying it should but this is another red flag.

There is no way for me to tell on radiatorbarn.com because they have a graphic of the image, not a photo.

Anyone on here bought a radiator from them for a YJ Wranger?
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-02-2011, 12:42 PM
ninjakid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Did I end up with the right radiator? I have a feeling I was sent the wrong one.

The new one appears to have two brass tubes protruding from the bottom. The Old one doesn't. If this is the right radiator, am I supposed to hook a hose to these brass fittings? Also the drain cock looks nothing like the old one. Not saying it should but this is another red flag.

There is no way for me to tell on radiatorbarn.com because they have a graphic of the image, not a photo.

Anyone on here bought a radiator from them for a YJ Wranger?
Can't see if what your specs are on the iPad app so do you have a manual?
The two small fittings on the bottom are for a automatic transmission.

Incompetence in motion
96 XJ 4dr, 4.0, AW4, NP231,
87 Wrangler, 4.2, TF999, NP231
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