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Unread 08-12-2015, 02:29 PM   #1
ThatGuyCollin
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New to Me Jeep Sputtering

I broke down on the highway about 2 days ago. Since then I replaced plug wires(already changed plugs), distributer cap, rotor, fuel filter, and added lucas fuel cleaner. The YJ is idling fine but sputters and lurchez on acceleration leaving it undrivable. It has new engine oil and filter as well (full synthetic and k&n filter). Any ideas?

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Unread 08-12-2015, 03:30 PM   #2
vindicated
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You'd probably get better help posting this in the correct section.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/
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Unread 08-12-2015, 03:34 PM   #3
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Unread 08-12-2015, 10:28 PM   #4
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuyCollin View Post
I broke down on the highway about 2 days ago. Since then I replaced plug wires(already changed plugs), distributer cap, rotor, fuel filter, and added lucas fuel cleaner. The YJ is idling fine but sputters and lurchez on acceleration leaving it undrivable. It has new engine oil and filter as well (full synthetic and k&n filter). Any ideas?
1. Check your fuel pressure
2. Test your Throttle Position Sensor.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 05:30 AM   #5
ThatGuyCollin
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Wouldn't I have a check engine light if it is the TPS? Also replaced the coil yesterday.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 08:53 AM   #6
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how old is the O2 sensor?

any leaks in the exhaust system either before or after the sensor?
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Unread 08-13-2015, 08:54 AM   #7
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And, are you sure you have a bulb behind the CEL icon?

some previous owners like to take them out - its the best mod they can do to sell their jeep.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 11:03 AM   #8
ThatGuyCollin
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Not sure on the age of the censor. there are cracked exhaust headers that I havent got to replacing yet but it never caused problems before.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 11:04 AM   #9
ThatGuyCollin
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There is a light behind it because it will come on when I turn the key but goes away when I start it up.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 11:19 AM   #10
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No, the diagnostic light does not light for all codes and many times since the diagnostics were very early (Called OBD1) it also does not indicate at all sometimes when you have a component fail. It must be checked by using a meter or other tool.
This is how to check the codes that are there and what they mean. Post your results:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...codes-1257145/

You must fix the exhaust. It has a huge effect on the fuel regulation when warm. Does the issue happen both cold and hot?

Clean your IAC and throttlebody. Here is one of many on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yc9ilkiRoTU
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Unread 08-13-2015, 01:57 PM   #11
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
No, the diagnostic light does not light for all codes and many times since the diagnostics were very early (Called OBD1) it also does not indicate at all sometimes when you have a component fail. It must be checked by using a meter or other tool.
This is how to check the codes that are there and what they mean. Post your results:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...codes-1257145/

You must fix the exhaust. It has a huge effect on the fuel regulation when warm. Does the issue happen both cold and hot?

Clean your IAC and throttlebody. Here is one of many on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yc9ilkiRoTU

While I'm not going to contradict Que, if it idles fine, but boggs down upon throttle, it's either the TPS or too much fuel. Running rich could be caused by the cracked exhaust manifold causing the O2 sensor to read lean and sending a run rich signal to the ECM.

Either way, Check your codes, clean your TB and IAC anyways. You'll need to get your manifold welded or replaced. I'm going through this similar situation now on a 98 XJ. New Stainless manifolds from local sources are $188.00+ Tax. Sure you can buy them online, but I've found the RMA process to be a huge pain in the arse and refuse to buy online those things I can get and warranty replace locally - even if they are $30 more locally. The time and hassle of dealing with an online/ebay vendor make the $30 extra a bargain IMO.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 02:21 PM   #12
Que89YJ
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Not disagreeing with you. The IAC only should deal with idle. The throttlebody could be an issue. The O@ sensor is definitely contributing to any issue with closed loop. You should always start troubleshooting with codes.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 02:45 PM   #13
ThatGuyCollin
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I think it may be only when hot because I thought it was fixed and drove it to school in the morning and had issues in the afternoon. I have a spare exhaust header that I will throw on tonight and see if that works.
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Unread 08-13-2015, 03:45 PM   #14
Que89YJ
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You can try disconnecting the o2 sensor in seeing if it happens. By disconnecting it you will keep it in open loop. It's a quick test.
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Unread 08-14-2015, 05:25 PM   #15
ThatGuyCollin
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I didn't have time for a header swap so I pulled out the O2 sensor. It stopped sputtering for the first 30 minutes if idle/driving but then started again. I need to redo some of the wiring that leads to the coil because the PO cut them and used plastic crimps to put it back together. Also my Oil Pressure was only reading 10psi max. Is it time to replace with a new high flow or is that normal for cruising at about 25mph? My temp gauge also works intermittently so its time for a new sensor on that.
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