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Unread 09-22-2010, 02:12 AM   #1
RedTruck18
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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New Jeep, new problems...

I just got a 94 Wrangler (YJ) With an AX15 and the 4.0 H.O. The Jeep has 105,000 miles, and seems to have been lifted right, 4 inch suspension, 2 inch body. Its currently sitting on BRAND NEW 33in x 12.5in BF Goodwrench Mud Terrains/AT. The jeep runs great, it does suffer from a case of lifter tick, but I plan on replacing the lifters (which from what i've read on these forums, should fix the problem). The problem that has me stumped, is when down shifting the transmission grinds while going into gear, it seems to only want to happen when downshifting to 2nd and 4th, but those just happen to be the two gears I've been dropping to around town mostly, it could very well be the others. While at the local auto parts store picking up oil, anti-freeze, air filters, and a bunch of other parts and supplies to give it a basic overhaul, I spoke with the man behind the counter about my grinding issue, first off he said I need to replace the bushings on the clutch pedal (To solve the issue of the pedal squeaking/sticking while pushing and releasing the clutch), then he tried to explain to me how to adjust my clutch in order to pick up further down, he stated that the clutch pedal was set to grip/engage to far forward(he said that there should be about an inch of free play in the pedal before it engages, and mine has almost zero play, only enough to wiggle the pedal slightly) I went ahead and topped off the hydraulic clutch fluid reservoir hoping that may fix it, and it seemed to maybe have alleviated the problem very very slightly, but I could just be wishfully thinking too much. Should I attempt to bleed the slave cylinder in an attempt to rectify this problem? All that would require is opening up the drain/bleed valve on the slave cylinder(located at the tranny??) while somebody slowly pumps the clutch, holds it down, close valve, release, and repeat, while adding DOT 3 to the reservoir? I seriously doubt the clutch is bad, it engages strongly and does not slip AT ALL in any gears at any RPM's. Thanks in advance for all the advice, this forum has been great just to sit back and read and try to figure out things on my own.

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Unread 09-22-2010, 05:38 AM   #2
Roadyy
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How low was the fluid when you topped it off?
Bleeding it may help and you have the procedure right on bleeding it. Have you checked the clearance for the shifter and that 2" BL to make sure it isn't binding with the shifter boot to keep it going back easily to engage?
The tub is raised 2" higher on the shifter without the shifter raising with it therefore the boot is sitting 2" higher than normal causing resistance to the shifter. This restricts the normal swing of the shifter and could be part of the problem.
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Unread 09-22-2010, 09:12 PM   #3
RedTruck18
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The shifter boot is not restricting the movement whatsoever, the clutch(dot 3) fluid was about halfway full in the reservoir. I changed the tranny fluids today and it had no effects. Can anybody explain how to adjust my clutch pedal(if it is even possible)? Also, to put a new clutch pedal bushing in, how should I go about that? Thanks for the help!
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Unread 09-22-2010, 10:26 PM   #4
TrynPas
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did you replace the fluid with 10w-30? also, couldn't it just be your synchros going bad?
Just in case:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...change-865520/
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Unread 09-22-2010, 11:37 PM   #5
RedTruck18
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I refilled it with 10W-30, as I had already seen in another post by Mean Max. I've been able to pinpoint the grinding a little bit more, it grinds when downshifting into 3rd and 2nd gears, and when upshifting into 2nd. It also grinds when i'm shifting it into reverse (I shift into reverse by first shifting into 1st, not letting the clutch out, just putting the shifter into the first gear position, then into the reverse gear. When going into reverse, it grinds real real slow, you can actually feel each tooth(or so it feels like that at least). From what I read, reverse gear does not have a syncro, so its safe to assume if my grinding also exists in reverse, its a problem somewhere else. Tomorrow I plan to swap the new bushing into the clutch pedal(it squeaks/sticks really bad right now, which has made shifting quite interesting), and bleed/refill the hydraulic clutch system thingy. I'd really like some advice as to what I need to do or try first, i'd rather not start throwing money into these things. I really don't think my clutch is going bad, it does not slip in any gear, at any RPM. It shifts fine, once I get the shifter into the gears (I'm not sure if I mentioned that, it grinds when shifting into the gear, not when releasing the clutch. Just when I move the gear selector into each gear. Thanks in advance for all the help.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 01:46 PM   #6
TrynPas
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I'm gonna keep an eye on this thread, mine does the same thing in reverse. I always figured it to be synchros, but perhaps I was wrong. Sometimes while stopped, I have to shift into second, then first so it won't grind. Good luck.
P.S. I don't have a body lift, only 4" lift springs and a t-case drop kit
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Unread 09-23-2010, 01:50 PM   #7
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To address your lifter tick, just replacing your lifters is a total waste of time money and effort. You should replace your cam and lifters as a set. If you install new lifters on an old cam the wear on the cam will kill your new lifters in short order.
Please see my sig for more info on cam/lifter survival.

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Unread 09-23-2010, 03:17 PM   #8
Gorf
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I would almost bet money on a clutch master cylinder. I had the same problem with mine a few weeks ago; poor pedal travel, grinding into gears, hard to put into reverse. I replaced the clutch master cylinder and everything is fine now.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 04:39 PM   #9
RedTruck18
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Thanks for the tip on the lifters, i'll be sure to do that once I get this clutch fixed... I saw they sold them in kits, some with "performance" cams/lifters. Would you reccomend just trying to find a stock replacement? or is a better cam worth it? the jeep currently does have a header(previous owner had the header put on instead of replacing a cracked manifold with another manifold), and I may put a cat-back system in it down the road, aside from that there are no real engine mods planned. I'm about to bleed the clutch, and I'm still trying to figure out why it squeeks when I push the pedal in, and i'm starting to think the squeek I hear is coming from the Master Cylinder and not the pedal... anybody ever hear of that happening?
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Unread 09-23-2010, 04:43 PM   #10
4.7stroker
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I would upgrade the cam while you have it apart-performance upgrade for almost free hell yea. I would also take your head to a machine shop to have it gone through, cheap insurance and peace of mind. While the head is being worked on de-carbon the pistons and prep the block mating surface.

Dwayne
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Unread 09-23-2010, 07:14 PM   #11
TrynPas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.7stroker View Post
I would upgrade the cam while you have it apart-performance upgrade for almost free hell yea. I would also take your head to a machine shop to have it gone through, cheap insurance and peace of mind. While the head is being worked on de-carbon the pistons and prep the block mating surface.

Dwayne
this cracks me up. it's exactly what I was thinking when I took the 460 out of my boat before the summer. oh....... I'll just replace the leaking gaskets....and get a bigger cam/lifters......but.........might as well get the heads done (and ported)........oh......probably need a bigger carb for the new cam.........oh yeah, I'll need MSD ignition to fire it all.......$2k+ later........I hope you have more self control than I do. Sorry about the thread jack....just sounded familiar.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 08:09 PM   #12
Old4X
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Your shifter problem sounds like bad master/slave cyls. Don't just replace one, do both.

If yours are available as a pre-bled assembly, get that. And these parts are best if OEM (from the dealership), the aftermarket clutch cylinders don't last long.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 09:08 PM   #13
RedTruck18
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Well, I got a new Slave before reading your post Old4X, but they didnt have a master in stock, so I'll have to look into that tomorrow. New slave did make a difference, more pressure when pushing the clutch(it still feels fairly weak, when I push the clutch in my truck after driving the jeep, it feels way harder than the jeep) New slave got rid of the grinding when going into 2nd almost completely, i'm thinking a new master should make things perfect. While out driving today to check the clutch and new brake pads I just put on... my front left brakes locked up pretty hard and are stuck. So now its time to diagnose that as well, I'm thinking bleed the line, if piston un-sticks, than its nothing hydraulic, then check the pistons and such, right? could somebody give me some advice on this as well? Thanks so much for all the help so far.
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Unread 09-23-2010, 09:25 PM   #14
4.7stroker
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This sounds fairly typical of a worn out caliper 2 new calipers will alleviate your locked brake issue.

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Unread 09-23-2010, 09:26 PM   #15
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTruck18 View Post
Well, I got a new Slave before reading your post Old4X, but they didnt have a master in stock, so I'll have to look into that tomorrow. New slave did make a difference, more pressure when pushing the clutch(it still feels fairly weak, when I push the clutch in my truck after driving the jeep, it feels way harder than the jeep) New slave got rid of the grinding when going into 2nd almost completely, i'm thinking a new master should make things perfect. While out driving today to check the clutch and new brake pads I just put on... my front left brakes locked up pretty hard and are stuck. So now its time to diagnose that as well, I'm thinking bleed the line, if piston un-sticks, than its nothing hydraulic, then check the pistons and such, right? could somebody give me some advice on this as well? Thanks so much for all the help so far.

Your brake caliper pistons are sticking. A common problem on these Jeeps.

Go to Advance and get rebuilt replacements, ask for the ones with metal pistons (costs about a buck more). The calipers are under $25 each.

You can get yours un-stuck, but they will stick again, even worse, in a week or so.
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