New Headgasket Overheating! - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 08:46 AM
mike_breaker_5
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yeah we got a little off track there. i just didn't want te guy to go try to start twistin his distributor cap only to find out it can only be fastened in one position. like i said i'm not 100% sure on that one since it has been a while since my last handling of a 4.0l dist. however i am fairly certain that the hold down tab for the dist is solidly fastened to the shaft of the distributor.

EDIT:
i see what you were meaning by mechanical timing now. i thought you were referring to the old method of twisting the dist cap. apologies for the misunderstanding. but like i said before if nothing was removed from the cam or crank then there should be no possible way the timing has been affected.


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post #32 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 08:50 AM
Siva283
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I would stick with trying a new t-stat first. It may not be opening all the way. Besides 4$ is cheap insurance.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
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I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
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. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #33 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 08:53 AM
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Looks like he solved it with the thermostat removal to me. Just doesn't want to believe his results.

The heater core is on a parallel loop. So it can't plug any coolant flow.

Changing the cam/crank timing isn't going to have the same effect changing spark advance does. It will change the fuel injection and valve opening window, but not spark event timing. Jumping a whole tooth would make it run like crap and misfire. If it didn't punch a hole in the timing cover after eating the tensioner.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #34 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
Nic
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I am actually on my third thermostat so I am also alittle bit confused. I replaced it with a NAPA one yesterday that looked like a slightly different design (still 195*) but had the same results. I threw my old one into some boiling water and it did open. I am not sure just how far it is supposed to open, it didnt like to much though. I dont know what the odds are of me getting 3 bad tstats. And the heater core blows pretty hot and there isnt any leaking or anything. I have considered timing aswell, I had the cylinder head machined so it is ever so slightly shorter now. Not sure that it would make such a differance as to cause this much overheating though. Is there a different temperature tstat I should be trying? Or manufacuter? Thanks for all the help. Cheers
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post #35 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 11:21 AM
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Spring installed toward the block right?

1 it doesn't overheat when the tstat is out
2 it doesn't flow coolant with the tstat in

What about that leads you to timing?

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #36 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 11:26 AM
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get the timing idea out of your head. there is no way that's the issue. there would be extremely worse conditions like monkey said if that was the case.

having the head planed a little won't increase your temp. if you had said you had the cylinders all bored then i would say that could be a cause for higher than normal temps.

i would try to keep burping the system in the manner posted before here... sometimes it takes more than one burp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
. An easy way I found to burp the system is fill the over flow then fill the block through the thermostat housing and then fill through the top rad hose. Run the engine to operating temp with the cap off toping off the rad as neccasary. Keep the rad filled to the bottom of the hole for the cap and squeeze the top hose periodically while the engine is warming. Has worked several times without fail for me.
also ...
please don't take this as an insult...
are you putting the thermostat upside down?



the larger portion of the t-stat goes down into the block.

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post #37 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 11:43 AM
Siva283
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Also is your cooling system clean. If it is cruddy that could mess up 3 thermostats in a row. What about the water pump? If the fins on it are worn it would give reduced flow with the t-stat in and higher flow without it. Cant remember if you replaced\checked it or not. If you replaced it was it with the correct reverse rotation pump? Also you need another way to reliably check the temp since we dont know if your new gauge is accurate.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #38 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 11:47 AM
Siva283
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I agree with the others at this point about Timing. Its not the timing that has been ruled out by the working with no t-stat part. Its time to focus on the t-stat. That is the common denominator.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
Siva283 is online now  
post #39 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 01:47 PM
mike_breaker_5
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siva just gave me an idea from his last post.

did you put your serpentine belt on correctly? it is possible to put it on wrong which can result in certain accessories, water pump, running backwards. this could definitely cause the issue you are having.

check your fan, if it is blowing air out through the grill of your jeep, you did something wrong last time you had the belt off.

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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.

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post #40 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 02:32 PM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_breaker_5 View Post
siva just gave me an idea from his last post.
I aim to please.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
Siva283 is online now  
post #41 of 42 Old 11-14-2012, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
Nic
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Yes the belt is taking the correct route. Actually had it wrong at first because the PO had a very interesting but incorrect route that worked somehow. And I replaced the rad hoses when I was doing the headgasket and flushed the system with a hose so hopefully it is clean. And yes, the thermostat is in the correct way
I talked to some guys at Ford and came to the conclusion that the engine is still airlocked somehow. A tech there has a bit of experience with Jeeps and sais they are brutal to get all the air out of system. So I am going to bring it there and use a pressurized filler to make sure theres no air in the system. Thanks for all the help guys!
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post #42 of 42 Old 11-15-2012, 09:53 AM
Siva283
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Are you filling the system with the engine running? I always start the engine and fill it while it is running from the top hose on the RAD. I fill the overflow and I fill the block through where the T-Stat goes before starting it though. I have done half a dozen with no problem. When it seems filled the engine will heat up almost to the red and then suddenly the level drops and it starts flowing and I top it off. You can temporarily disconnect the hose from the head to the heater core also. It is a high spot so its hard to get air out of that area. Disconnecting the one hose allows the air to escape. Once the air is gone though it will shoot fluid out of the hose sometimes with amazing pressure so be ready to shut it down quick

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
Siva283 is online now  
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coolant , coolant flow , engine , head gasket , over heating

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