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Unread 11-11-2012, 01:11 PM   #16
Nic
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Fan clutch tested ok. Gonna replace water pump I think. Could a small coolant leak cause this overheating? My driveway is currently covered in coolant from the flush but it looks like a small amount may be leaking from somewhere.

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Unread 11-12-2012, 11:43 AM   #17
mike_breaker_5
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a small leak should cause it to go slowly, not all at once. with a new-ish aluminum rad from a 2.5l tj in my jeep, i only have to run my fan if it's above 80* outside. also remember i am running a 5.2l in my yj. i am going to say that the rad is plenty ample sized to accommodate a small loss of coolant if your fan is running and working properly.
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Unread 11-12-2012, 06:42 PM   #18
Nic
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Just replaced the water pump, still having the overheating issue. Perhaps the rad is clogged.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 07:58 PM   #19
Nic
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Tried running the Jeep without the thermostat in it, it ran super cool, around 45*C. With out the tstat in it I could also see the coolant flowing through the radiator so I dont believe its clogged. I tested my tstat and its working fine. When I re installed it it came back round to the same problems. Gauge goes straight up to the red line. Also even after running the engine for a decent amount of time I cant see any flow in the radiator? Yet the tstat is working.. I guess the next step is to pressure test the system.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 09:13 PM   #20
jokerchief462
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You have a blockage or a restriction somewhere in the cooling system. You can see if your heater core is a player by bypassing and running. If it goes away leave it bypassed until you can get a heater core. Just move the hose from the thermostat housing to the intake aand leave the heater core out of the loop. That will seperate the two systems and then there will be no doubt as to which system is blocked or has a restricted flow.
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Unread 11-13-2012, 11:16 PM   #21
Nic
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Sorry I'm not quite familiar with this procedure. Disconnect the heater core hose (the one on top of the tstat housing) from the firewall and have to lead back into the water pump?
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Unread 11-14-2012, 06:25 AM   #22
jokerchief462
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You have two hoses from the heater core one to the T=stat housing and one to the intake disconnect both and move to passenger side for flush of the heater core. You then take a hose from the t-stat housing to the intake which bypasses the heater core. Secure the heater core hoses and run. If no issues then heater core is blocked. If there is still a problem then engine block is blocked somewhere. While you have the heater core bypassed you can then jst flush the heater core with a garden hose to the heater core hoses.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 06:32 AM   #23
mike_breaker_5
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yup. doesn't really matter which heater core hose you disconnect from the core. all that matters is that the loop is made between the pump and the t-stat housing. similar to this here...





these pics may not look identical to your jeep but they will be similar.
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Unread 11-14-2012, 06:49 AM   #24
Siva283
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If it was working with the Thermostat out and then you put it back in it is most likely the thermostat. Is it in backwards? They are 4$ just replace it anyway maybe there is some one in a million scenario going on causing it to not work right under pressure. It also may not be opening all the way. All the coolant does not go through the heater core so even if it was blocked it should not cause this issue. When the engine is heating up if you turn the heat on is it hot. If so your heater core is working fine. You said when you squeeze the top hose it refills but slowly. I would be the thermostat is not opening all the way. Since when you take it out you get flow I doubt there is a blockage. I am betting on a malfuntioning thermostat. An easy way I found to burp the system is fill the over flow then fill the block through the thermostat housing and then fill through the top rad hose. Run the engine to operating temp with the cap off toping off the rad as neccasary. Keep the rad filled to the bottom of the hole for the cap and squeeze the top hose periodically while the engine is warming. Has worked several times without fail for me.
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-14-2012, 06:54 AM   #25
Siva283
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Also check the timeing. I had a vehicle that ran great but the mechanical timing was off just a hair and it would cause the engine to overheat under load. It also happened after replacing a head gasket.
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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:00 AM   #26
mike_breaker_5
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there's no way to adjust timing on the 4.0l. the pcm does it. if it's out of time then it has to be 180* out, even at that i think you can put the distributor in only one way. been a long time since i had a 4.0 distributor in my hands.

replacing the t-stat couldn't hurt as stated.

i'm not exactly sure why bypassing a plugged heater core helps but it usually does. it probably has something to do with increasing flow through the radiator.
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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...r-junk-990191/
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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:05 AM   #27
Siva283
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The PCM doesnt control Mechanical Timing. IEtiming belt streched or jumped a tooth.
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:29 AM   #28
mike_breaker_5
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the 4.0l doesn't have mechanical timing. like i said the pcm controls the timing in his jeep, you can't adjust it.
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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...r-junk-990191/
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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:30 AM   #29
mike_breaker_5
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stretched belt and a jumped tooth can happen. however a stretched belt can be compensated by the pcm (to a point). a jumped tooth will cause a lot more problems than just overheating in the 4.0l.
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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...r-junk-990191/
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Unread 11-14-2012, 07:36 AM   #30
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_breaker_5 View Post
stretched belt and a jumped tooth can happen. however a stretched belt can be compensated by the pcm (to a point). a jumped tooth will cause a lot more problems than just overheating in the 4.0l.
He is having a somewhat strange problem. All the major things are working or atleast appear to be. I think it might be time to start thinking about and checking the more obscure things. I would still replace the t-stat first though. It is to cheap not too
__________________
1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

[QUOTE=Magnum;14117863] I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=ldso;16498409]. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Luuca;16122017]diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Overhead;17658665]this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.[/QUOTE]
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