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New Build Thread

10K views 70 replies 16 participants last post by  wanabejeeper 
#1 · (Edited)
Gonna start my own build thread now as it looks like its going to get expensive quick. Long story short engine overheated and demo'd piston in cyl1. I've checked thru most options I can think of and have decided to go with a crate engine replace. Either from QTech or a second source I'll identify shortly. My 87 wrangler is running a 258 with tf999 and a 231 tc and 97k miles. A weber has been swapped on already so I'll tune and rejet as part of my build.

many obvious things like ujoints were already replaced by PO. He had done quite a bit of work on this prior to selling it.

replace 258 ( thermo, waterpump, etc,etc,etc )
check over auto trans, new seals, rebuild if needed.
check over 231 rebuild, new seals as needed
drop gas tank, replace sender, new fuel filter.
review replace brake lines as needed
service front and rear brakes as needed.
nutter
repair rusted panels under and near front roll bar and driverside floor.
replace mirrors
tune rejet weber
replace 4wd vacuum motor.
extend exhaust pipe to back of vehicle.
install fender flares tha will cover tires
considering a 1 to 2 inch BL
rockers
Hopefully this will make it realiable and get it thru NJ emissions with no issues.

Questions does it make it that much easier to pull and replace engine that its worth the effort to pull the grill and fenders?
and what is the routing of the front brake line running from the prop valve to passengers side brake
 
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#2 ·
sorry to hear about the engine. Glad to hear about the build. looking forward to hearing more about ur jeep
 
#3 ·
Should start the tear down tomorrow or monday. I have off from work the last week in Oct so I'm hoping most of the parts are in and ready to go. Will order the engine monday. I think I'm getting it from autopartswearhouse.com 3 year 100,000 mile war. I've found a local shop to freshen up the trans for 350-450. I've been cleaning the garage and organizing. Had to build a workbench and move all the yard crap out of there.
 
#5 ·
my front brake line runs down the advance adapters 350 motor mount and over to the pass side to a mount, then splits off into a rubicon express braided steel extended brake line... dont know if that helps you lol. id say run it wherever its easiest for you, and as far out of the way as you can.

as far as taking the fenders and grill off, it makes things alot easier. i would do it for sure.

just wondering.... why not go with something different? seems like alot of coin... why not drop a 4.0 or a 3.8 in there?

anyways, sounds like a fun project.. take pics and keep us updated
 
#6 ·
my front brake line runs down the advance adapters 350 motor mount and over to the pass side to a mount, then splits off into a rubicon express braided steel extended brake line... dont know if that helps you lol. id say run it wherever its easiest for you, and as far out of the way as you can.
Mine looks like an inverted rainbow just swinging away behind the oilpan

[/QUOTE]as far as taking the fenders and grill off, it makes things alot easier. i would do it for sure. [/QUOTE]

Yeah I'll def be doing that

[/QUOTE]just wondering.... why not go with something different? seems like alot of coin... why not drop a 4.0 or a 3.8 in there?

anyways, sounds like a fun project.. take pics and keep us updated[/QUOTE]

Future project is to stroke it and/or go with a 4.0 FI head. But this is the fastest and cheapest route back up and running. 1300 for the engine plus the rebuild to the tranny. Everything transfers with out issues. A few other odds and ends but I know exactly what I have at that point drive train wise.
 
#8 ·
Got a bit delayed but I'll start tonite after work. I've got the jeep in the now mostly clean and organised garage.
 

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#9 ·
Looks like a good place to work on it. You could just take off the grill and leave the fenders on if you want, I left mine on and had loads of room to work. Good luck!
 
#10 ·
So first time takin a fender off. Took the DS off took longer then I expected. compressor keeps blowing the breaker so that slowed me down and the bottom fender to body bolt wouldn't break free with the air ratchet so I had to go underneath and hang on a wratchet one click at a time till it was freee enough to finish off. So tomorrow I get the grill and otherside fender and if I have time start on the armor.
 
#11 ·
Last night got the fan, radiatior and grill off. Remind me to choke the engineer that picked those clips that spin to back up the bolts. Taking a break from it tonite but will shoot for PS fender and armor tomorrow. With luck I might get the shafts off too. Searching Craigs List for an engine stand and hoist, anyone in South Jersey area have one or both I can borrow for the few weeks I need it? Ordered this today.. Marshall Engines Engine Long Block

1962.02 incl tax and core, I get 450 back. Found the shop to rebuild my tranny.

More pics once I get everything off and I'm ready to pull the engine.

Will be scrounging thru the local yards for odds and ends this weekend.
 
#12 ·
Should be ready to pull it tomorrow. Got just about everything disconnected. Just have TC and Tranny linkage and rear shaft left.

The PO removed the vacuum motor from the front axle there is a small black plug in the opening. Can someone look at the pics and let me know if anything besides the vacuum motor is missing or damaged at least as far as you can see.
 

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#14 ·
Guys I have to order that part... CAn someone please look at the pic of my front axle and confirm all I need is the vacuum motor... I'm wonderng how it mounts there doesn't seem to be anything to hold it on?
 
#16 ·
Interesting... mine doesnt have the electrical connection on the opposite side and I cant find a reference for it in the haynes manual. I assume thats for the 4wd indicator... do 87's have that?
 
#18 ·
Looks like the PO made his own permanent locker to hold the fork in the locked position. So you have your front axle engaged all the time. I've read that a lot of guys do that and it should be o.k as long as your front drive shaft don't have vibes......anyway, that's what it looks like to me from the pic's.....
 
#19 ·
So after a few monthos off for the cold here in the North east. Were getting some warm weather and its back to work. Dropped the fuel tank to replace the faulty sender and guess what> I got the 20 gallon tank with the square opening not the 15 so I have to send the sender back....I'm happy I got the bigger tank. New engine is on the stand. I'm just finishing the degreasing and cleaning of the oil pan, valve cover and timing cover and I'll seal the engine up. I spent some time on the phone with a torque converter rebuilder. They recommended the 26 spline lock up. I'm not sure I agree but They said they would work with me on a return.

The tranny was rebuilt by a local shop and its just sitting on the garage floor waiting. I've got a new vacuum motor for the front axle to install new motor and tranny mounts. When I was pulling the tranny skid apart one of the bolts was spinning. Is there an easy fix for the bad backing nut would be ok to leave that one bolt out?

I'm going to leave the xfer case alone for now. I'll rebuild it with an SYE when It comes time to lift the Jeep. for now I'm focusing on getting it back on the road.
 
#20 · (Edited)
update

So turns out I got the wrong torque converter. I have the west german 27 spline not the 26 spline that is more common. Also turns out that mine is rare and the rebuild place doesn't have any cores so I'll have to ship my core down for a rebuild and pay to return the original converter.... There is no way to tell which converter you have from the outside. You have count the splines on the input shaft of the transmission.

In other action I've ordered the jets for the weber to tune it based on the FAQ in this forum. The engine is still sitting on the stand. I'll finish degreesing the valve cover, timing cover and oil pan and install them while waiting on the converter. little paint and then the intake and exhaust will complete the engine.

Fuel tank is out and I have the new fuel sender ready to go in. I have the square hole 20 gallon tank. They dont make the exact sender any longer you get the 91 version minus the fuel pump. You just have to splice in the old connector inplace of the one that comes on the sender.

I'm borrowing my friends power washer and I'll be cleaning up the engine compartment along with the parts listed above.

Is there any recommendation on whether to upgrade the ujoints at the trasfer case. Since they are disconnected now I just thought if there were upgrades I could do them now.
 
#22 ·
Picked up a 41/2 inch angle grinder and some wire wheels. Spent some time over the past few days cleaning crap up. water pump, timing cover, oil pan. Should be finishing the engine assembly in the next few days. Hopefully by this weekend. Shipped both converters back to the rebuilder who should turn my converter around in a day or two.
 
#23 ·
So tonite I went up to pepboys looking for the harm Bal bolt... no go but they did have woodruff key I needed for the different crank I have on the new engine. Picket that up and went over to Home Deport. They had the bolt in the grade and size I needed. I also picked up new fasteners for the gas tank sender and installed them.. Put the woodruff key in. tomorrow is a big day. Install timing cover, thermostat housing and oil pan and paint the engine. replace the vacuum motor for the front axle and install the gas tank. If I have time I'll swap out the u joints.
 
#24 ·
Progress today. Cleaned up the oil pan with a wire wheel on the grinder and painted it over with the rust preventer rattle can stuff. Got the Timing cover, water pump and thermo housing on. Tomorrow install the oil pump and pan and paint the engine. If I have time I'll start on the frame rust at the motor mounts and maybe the ujoints I didn't get to today
 
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