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YJ_Squared 04-24-2013 06:02 PM

Need some opinions
 
I am getting ready to start on my next YJ build and I can not decide what to do. It currently has a Rough Country 2.5" lift and 3" BL on it. The BL is gone no matter what, but I cant decide to leave the 2.5" springs or go SOA.

I am fully aware of the can of worms I will be opening if I go SOA, but this is a trail only rig. My donor rig already has a traction bar and full hydro steering.

I will be using Waggie 44s so I understand they are a little tougher to do SOA, in the front at least.

Just wondering what you all would do if you all were in this situation. Time is really not a factor because it is probably going to take awhile anyway.

Fenix85182 04-24-2013 07:19 PM

Isn't the traction bar the most difficult fab part of the SOA? I'd say if you're already on your way there to keep going... and do a build thread.

YJ_Squared 04-25-2013 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fenix85182
Isn't the traction bar the most difficult fab part of the SOA? I'd say if you're already on your way there to keep going... and do a build thread.

Oh I will have a build thread when I get started.

I'm not sure about the traction bar being the toughest part but I'm still just not sure. I like the thoughts of staying sua bc of center of gravity issues. But it's tough to get that set up to flex like a good SOA set up.

calvynandhobbs 04-25-2013 04:11 PM

I don't think you can set up SUA to flex like a SOA, but I like the center of gravity of the SUA. If I go SOA in the future it would have to be fullsize axles and stretched a little. There are some springs that are more flexy than others for SUA and different combinations of bommerang shackles, revolver shackles (never tried personally) and other things that can provide decent flex for SUA. 2.5" of lift and front and rear fender mods can put you 35s easy.

Joe Dillard 04-25-2013 07:56 PM

I understand concern for COG - my experience is that if done correctly, SOA using a good selection of parts, the right approach, and top quality install, will provide a ride that provides a high degree of confidence and little concern with staying low to the ground.

Anticanman 04-25-2013 08:03 PM

You haven't mentioned what size tires you'll be running and what kind of terrain you'll be tackling. Around here, suspension travel is the difference between pulling cable and walking right through. Pick the wrong line and you'll be wanting to go lower. Like this guy:
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...DSC02656-1.jpg

YJ_Squared 04-25-2013 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Dillard
I understand concern for COG - my experience is that if done correctly, SOA using a good selection of parts, the right approach, and top quality install, will provide a ride that provides a high degree of confidence and little concern with staying low to the ground.

Thanks for the input. I have been researching the hell out if this topic and I keep leaning more and more towards going spring-over. I would most likely use stock springs since they can be had for cheap and flex really well.

YJ_Squared 04-25-2013 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anticanman
You haven't mentioned what size tires you'll be running and what kind of terrain you'll be tackling. Around here, suspension travel is the difference between pulling cable and walking right through. Pick the wrong line and you'll be wanting to go lower. Like this guy:

You're right, I never actually said what tire size.

I will be starting at 35s on Built Waggy axles. If I can get my setup right with 35s, then I am just some tube fenders and comp cut away from 38s or so.

Here in the mid-Atlantic region, we have lots of hills and rocks. I stay about as far away from the mud as I can. Just not worth it to me.

Anticanman 04-25-2013 09:09 PM

You can fit 38's sprung under but for your application, a stock spring over lift would work well. If rough country was ever an option, I'm just gonna pick the opposite of that. Luckily, I can back up whatever choice with a bunch of mumbo jumbo because the choice comes down to your expertise. What do the guys around you wheel with? How does it work for the terrain? What can you learn from their setups?

Louie4 04-26-2013 06:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anticanman (Post 15349216)

Amature...:D

I would do the body right and get some quality 0-2" springs for an SOA...but that's just me.

PA_YJ19 04-26-2013 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Louie4

Amature...:D

I would do the body right and get some quality 0-2" springs for an SOA...but that's just me.

I second this, my buddies that use stock Springs break them left and right. I run 3.5 rear hd spin up front and the same thing in the rear but I use the wagoneer top leaf and 3rd leaf in the rear mixed with the other superlift leafs to stretch the rear 2 inches. I'm more than satisfied with mine SOA, I've never had ne tipsy issues either.

YJ_Squared 05-31-2013 03:23 PM

Ok I have officially decided on going SOA and am going to use some 1.5" lift springs.

I have found a set if axles I am trading my Waggy axles for. They are a Dana 44hd converted to a 5 lug and a 9" rear with 35 spline axles. Both are already set up for SOA for a YJ.

My jeeps are at a buddy's house and when he gets back from FL next week I will be getting started and start a build thread.

YJ_Squared 06-20-2013 08:07 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Well last week I finally got started on this thing. My time is at an absolute premium. I hope to be done by July 15th for the grand opening of the hatfield McCoy trails at Ivy.

I got the front axle, steering, and suspension out. It took quite a few hours between BSing and getting frozen bolts out. Next week I plan to get everything out at the rear and start the axle swap.

Attachment 640184

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Sent from AutoGuide.com App

YJ_Squared 07-13-2013 11:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I have been working a crap ton of hours lately so this thing has not gotten much attention. I did get the rear end 99% out today though. All I lack is getting the two frame end bolts out of the leaf springs. Those are being a PITA.

Here is a pic I took right before I tackled the rear shackles. I ended up having to cut the actual shackle plates in half to get to the top bolts with a sawzall. I didn't feel too peachy about torching them that close to the plastic tank.

jason280 07-14-2013 02:14 AM

Are the rear bolts simply too rusted to remove, and you are having to cut them out? I know on my '94, I had to unbolt and move the gas tank side to side to remove the rear frame-shackle bolts. I'm not sure if this is the factory installed them all this way, but there was no way to pull the upper bolts out with the gas tank bolted up....the bolts are simplt too long and there was not enough room to remove them with the gas tank in place.

I didn't have to completely drop the tank, but I did have to wedge it around a bit to clear the bolts. If Jeep had simply installed them with the nuts on the inside of the frame (closest to the tank), then it would not have been an issue.


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