alright, beware, this is gonna be a long post. okay. first, question...why is everyone against rough country lifts? i always read on here that people say they suck. they look like there a nice complete kit and seem to have good reviews. i found this one, what is your input on this.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-96...3339QQtcZphoto
fourth(this is kinda like the previous 2 combined, i think). i was looking at Revolver shackles, seem quite good. i wouldnt be able to use lift shackles with them, correct? i'm so confused on all this crap. need a forum hotline i can call haha.
i've been going back and fourth on what body lift to use, a 1,2, or 3...and i decided that i'm going to go with a 2'' body lift.
now, with a 2''BL, and i'm going to be going with a 4''lift no matter what, or what brand, that should give me 6'' or so;;but its only 4''suspension. if i do the shackle reversal and/or lift shackles, will it cause to much driveline vibration? install the t-case drop, motor mount lift spacers....should that be good? i'm going to be putting in my order in the next week, so i have to figure all this out asap. you all here seem to know what your talking about, so i'm going to look to you for assistance. again, sorry long post, just trying to get it all in. thanks.
First of all, I have the Rough Country lift on my Jeep, and I love it. I have had it for a little over 2 years now, and beat the crap out of it and it is just fine. Virtually no sag and still holding stong. Now keep in mind, it is a low cost lift, so it will not flex or ride as nice as others, just depends on what you want out of it, but for the cost, GREAT lift. This is from experience.
You can use the reversal kit on anything that is leaf sprung, if you read about it, it just changes the way that the spring take bumps and suck, forcing the spring to take the impact vs. the frame. Causes for a little better ride etc.
As for lift shackles, you can use them with any springs, but keep in mind that you are going to get that much more lift out of them. Which in turn can force issues with steering and drive shaft lengths, but you can use them if you like. As for the revolver shackles, I have not known many people that have them, they do not provide any lift and most serious guys don't run them, but for personal experience, I do not have it there.
As for the stabalizer, unless you have just massive tires, you don't need a dual unless you just want the look. Most guys will tell you that you don't need one at all if your steering is all right. They do help with bump steer but other than that, two would be overkill if you ask, at least for what you want to do.
On the vibration issue, keep in mind that if you are not doing a SYE and driveshaft, you will have vibrations because you will just be dropping the TC with a spacer kit. And anything much over 4" of lift and you may not have a choice but to go with a SYE and driveshaft. I have a 3.5" kit and 1" body and fit 33's with not much problem, but at full flex they hit. And I do not have an SYE but do have a lot of vibration. That is just a preference, can you deal with it or do you want it right?
On the fender flares, depends on what you want them for. If you just want wider ones for coverage, those are fine, the cheaper the better. IF you want more clearance, you will have to trim your fenders, which you can get Bushwacker cut outs or a TJ style flare and trim them. You have options depending on what you really want out of them.
yeah, i'm just looking for a lift that wont sag over a short time. leaning towards either the RE 4'', skyjacker 4'', black diamond 4'', or RC 4''.
i wanted to do the sye kit and cv driveshaft, but i'm not too sure if i'm good enough to tear into the t-case. i wouldnt mind pulling my stocker, which is in good shape and has only about 20k miles on it, and sell it off to cover the cost, or as much as possible on one with a sye already installed...not sure on that at all, so i cant even speculate.
its just that i have to get a complete front clip, floor pan, tank, brake lines, lift, etc. not sure if i have the money to spend on a cv driveshaft and sye. is there any good sites that have them for sale for somewhat cheap?
can take your pick on the sye and cv shaft, there are lots of them, and some on ebay too. so long as they have the 32 spline output shaft, i doubt you would notice the difference. as far as installing it goes, if you can install a lift, you can do a sye. i did mine with the t/case still in the jeep, and no problems at all. just follow the instructions!!
there are lots of things to consider for a shackle reversal. you will need a longer slip front d/shaft, as the axle will be moving backwards towards the t/case with the reversal. another consideration, especially if using a b/lift too, will be a longer steering shaft, again with a long slip on it too.
i had the rough country lift, but wheel pretty hard and didnt take me long to get a old man emu.....a lot better ride too. for the money, they are good enough if you dont want to get too flexed up. i did have 2 springs sag pretty quick, but rc sent 2 new ones free of charge, and actually sold me the 2 others for $85 shipped!!! that kinda tells you that they are cheap springs.....
i got my flares from ebay, as did scott (tomb raider) and we both liked them for the money. they are cut outs, so you can open your wheel wells up.
with @4" lift, 2" body lift, and maybe trimmed fenders, you can run 35's. i am currently on @4"lift, 1 1/2" lift shackles and 2 "b/lift, and run 35's no problem, although i have cut the hell outta my fenders...(dont run bump stops!)
hope this helps...
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover with a 6.0 LSx
1994 YJ, 4.3/700R4/OME SOA, etc
Western Star 4900EX 4 axle.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ).... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/