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Unread 12-01-2011, 11:16 AM   #61
Que89YJ
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I thought I would drop by and throw my .02 in LOL. Did you guys listen to what his fuel pressure readings were:
"Didn't have time to check the spark since I have class in 20 minutes, however, I did have time to check the fuel pressure. Primed it to about 20psi and jumped to 35psi+ when I cranked it. Not a fuel issue."

If you are only priming to 20 you do have a fuel pressure issue. How long did it take to bleed down after you shut it off?
You do have a fuel problem.

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Unread 12-01-2011, 11:19 AM   #62
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
I thought I would drop by and throw my .02 in LOL. Did you guys listen to what his fuel pressure readings were:
"Didn't have time to check the spark since I have class in 20 minutes, however, I did have time to check the fuel pressure. Primed it to about 20psi and jumped to 35psi+ when I cranked it. Not a fuel issue."

If you are only priming to 20 you do have a fuel pressure issue. How long did it take to bleed down after you shut it off?
You do have a fuel problem.
Didn't see that. It will not start with only 20 PSI
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Unread 12-01-2011, 11:26 AM   #63
The Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
I thought I would drop by and throw my .02 in LOL. Did you guys listen to what his fuel pressure readings were:
"Didn't have time to check the spark since I have class in 20 minutes, however, I did have time to check the fuel pressure. Primed it to about 20psi and jumped to 35psi+ when I cranked it. Not a fuel issue."

If you are only priming to 20 you do have a fuel pressure issue. How long did it take to bleed down after you shut it off?
You do have a fuel problem.
Yeah, but if it primes to 20 and then goes up to 35 when I crank it, it is delivering fuel at the proper pressure. It stayed at 35 for as long as I was able to stand there (which was only really like 2 minutes).

edit: Also there is the smell of fuel and the fact that I think part of my problem in this is that cranking it floods the engine since it is getting no spark.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 12:01 PM   #64
Que89YJ
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If you do the fuel test it is 31 psi idle, 39 with the vacuum line removed from the regulator, key off and it should hold for 20 minutes. If any of it is wrong you have a fuel related problem.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 12:27 PM   #65
The Rat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
If you do the fuel test it is 31 psi idle, 39 with the vacuum line removed from the regulator, key off and it should hold for 20 minutes. If any of it is wrong you have a fuel related problem.
I wasn't able to start it or run it at idle while testing it.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #66
Que89YJ
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Jumper the fuel pump relay between pins 30 and 87 = 31 psi
Remove jumper = Turn key off and watch pressure drop.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 01:09 PM   #67
SDGBASSE
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I was wondering when you'd jump in, leave it up to you to find something everyone else missed!
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 12-01-2011, 01:44 PM   #68
Que89YJ
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I hydrolocked my Charger RT last week in a storm. I started to try and fix the stupid thing myself but My garage is filled up with my Jeep that is broke. Damn if it's not one thing it's another!
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:09 PM   #69
SDGBASSE
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Off topic, but I'm curious to how you hydrolock a charger? Where were you going? Street driving? Weather must have been real bad.....
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:13 PM   #70
Que89YJ
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Yep. I was out in the storm a made a right hand turn through 12" of standing water. I had a splash shield that I kept breaking because of all the potholes so after the 3rd time breaking it I didn't replace it. The water shot up and I found out my air intake points strait down from the box. Took out #8 conn rod.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:24 PM   #71
The Rat
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Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Yep. I was out in the storm a made a right hand turn through 12" of standing water. I had a splash shield that I kept breaking because of all the potholes so after the 3rd time breaking it I didn't replace it. The water shot up and I found out my air intake points strait down from the box. Took out #8 conn rod.
Brutal.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:36 PM   #72
SDGBASSE
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That sucks.

Back on topic, I was going thru the thread again and I didn't see anywhere that you confirmed that you have a good spark, also the only sensor I know will cause an engine to start and then shut off right away is the MAP on the 2.5L TBI, not sure about the 4.0L MPI tho, maybe someone with more knowledge can chip in. Once you've confirmed that spark AND fuel are good go thru your vacuum lines and clean up the MAP sensor real good.
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:44 PM   #73
SDGBASSE
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You can always try this for S**ts and giggles.



Inspect the MAP sensor vacuum hose connection at the throttle body and sensor, then repair as necessary.

Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the sensor connector terminal B (as marked on the sensor body) with the ignition switch ON and the engine OFF. The output voltage should be 4–5 volts.
NOTE: The voltage should drop to 0.5–1.5 volts with a hot, neutral idle speed condition.

Test engine controller terminal 5 for the same voltage as in Step 2 to verify the wire harness condition. Repair any problems, as necessary.

Test the MAP sensor supply voltage at the sensor connector terminal C with the ignition ON. The voltage should be 4.5–5.5 volts. The same voltage should be present at terminal 6 of the engine controller wire harness connector.

Repair or replace the wire harness, as necessary. If the engine controller is suspect, use Diagnostic Tester M.S.1700, or equivalent, to test engine controller function.

Test the MAP sensor ground circuit at the sensor connector terminal A and engine controller connector terminal 4. Repair the wire harness as necessary.

Test the MAP sensor ground circuit at the engine controller connector between terminal 4 and terminal 11 with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit, check for a defective sensor ground connection located on the right side of the cylinder block. If the ground connection is good, replace the engine controller.
NOTE: If terminal 4 has a short circuit to 12 volts, correct this condition before replacing the engine controller.
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[QUOTE=ZeroGravity;10681914]I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.[/QUOTE]
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Unread 12-01-2011, 02:51 PM   #74
The Rat
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Yeah, I think I mentioned at the beginning I was almost positive that it was a no spark issue and not fuel, but decided to try anything to rule everything out.

Here's a lesson learned, don't enlist other people's help for reading things. The description of the fuel pressure at the rail before was based on what I was told by the kid I had reading it for me. My phone is more useful than a person...go figure.

It really primes to 31, doesn't drop quickly at all, and then goes up when it cranks. Here's a video!



So yeah...definitely no spark, confirmed 100% this time.

Also swapped the horn an ASD relays while I was out there to rule that out.

Gonna replace the crank sensor either tonight (if I have enough light/it isn't cold enough) or tomorrow morning. Would make sense since I have all of the symptoms but have been cleaning and checking everything else...which isn't a bad thing by any means.

edit: Also I'll be kinda pumped if it is the crank sensor, because it is what I originally thought was the issue but didn't want to replace it for the sake of throwing money at it.
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Unread 12-01-2011, 05:12 PM   #75
oldtime_ironman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Yep. I was out in the storm a made a right hand turn through 12" of standing water. I had a splash shield that I kept breaking because of all the potholes so after the 3rd time breaking it I didn't replace it. The water shot up and I found out my air intake points strait down from the box. Took out #8 conn rod.
I was gonna ask WTF, but I was just too decent to go there...
.
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