post #31 of Old 11-29-2011, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
The Rat
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IAC was disgusting. In fact, the whole TB was disgusting and the IAC was tough enough to get to that I just pulled the whole TB and cleaned it.

Gonna put it back in tomorrow and see what happens. Fingers crossed that that fixes it.

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OH WAIT. WHAT?
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post #32 of Old 11-29-2011, 06:13 PM
laybackman
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IAC was disgusting. In fact, the whole TB was disgusting and the IAC was tough enough to get to that I just pulled the whole TB and cleaned it.

Gonna put it back in tomorrow and see what happens. Fingers crossed that that fixes it.
Looks like it was lubricated with some roofing tar and then it was dipped in carbon black!!

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #33 of Old 11-29-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like it was lubricated with some roofing tar and then it was dipped in carbon black!!
Also looks like I put the IAC in backwards.

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post #34 of Old 11-29-2011, 11:51 PM
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If it doesn't work you could take a look at the coolant temp sensor. When you have a difference between hot and cold engine it's usually the culprit. And it's real cheap.

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I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.
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post #35 of Old 11-30-2011, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Put the TB back on, tried to start it...same as before.

Forgot to dump the memory. Unplugged the battery, wouldn't start. Cranked it a bit more and then eventually it just fired up on its own, no pedal. Took it for a quick drive and now I'm sitting in it, debating whether to let it run forever or to turn it off and hope it starts right up later.

Any other suggestions to think about while I sit in class for 2 more hours if this doesn't start right back up?

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post #36 of Old 11-30-2011, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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Also it's funny that the DRLs are triggered by vehicle motion and aren't just on by default when the vehicle is on. They work once I move.

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post #37 of Old 11-30-2011, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Also now that it's warmed up, it will start in one crank. Runs great, intake is way loud though now since its so clean.

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post #38 of Old 11-30-2011, 08:25 AM
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Also it's funny that the DRLs are triggered by vehicle motion and aren't just on by default when the vehicle is on. They work once I move.
The drl takes its cue to turn on the lights (at 50% power I beleive) from movement detected by the Vehicle Speed Sensor. No movement no lights! Don't be a girly man.....shut the engine off!

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #39 of Old 11-30-2011, 08:43 AM Thread Starter
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Already won't start back up. Damn. Suggestions for what to look at next?

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post #40 of Old 11-30-2011, 09:05 AM
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Already won't start back up. Damn. Suggestions for what to look at next?
Check for codes:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM3uPEtWVvk[/ame]
Also check for spark and fuel pressure.
.
.
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post #41 of Old 11-30-2011, 09:38 AM
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Already won't start back up. Damn. Suggestions for what to look at next?
I think SDGBASSE hit a home run here. The temp sensor helps control idle, air/fuel ratio and timing. If all other items are functioning ESPECIALLY because your engine runs when warm and gives you grief when cold...the resistance of the temp sensor is wrong so the engine is setting itself up to run as if it was hot when it is cold.

That would be like trying to start a cold engine that is carb'ed and no choke and the wrong timing.

I'll be honest it did not even pop into my mind. That proves many minds are better than one....especially mine!

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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post #42 of Old 11-30-2011, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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May have just ruled out the coolant temp sensor:

Changed plugs/wires/cap/rotor and cranked it for a bit and got it started and ran it up to temp.
Shut it off, waited a minute, cranked and started on one turn.
Shut it off, waited 5 minutes, cranked and cranked and cranked and no start.

Doesn't sound like it's getting any spark, but it was hot still when I tried to start it again. I believe that should rule out the coolant temp sensor.

Going back to thinking that maybe it is the crank position sensor, but I can't really justify why, nor do I know how to test it properly. Still so odd that it is something that came on so suddenly, didn't even produce a warning of any sort.

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post #43 of Old 11-30-2011, 12:14 PM
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Check the resistance in the CRANK (not cam) position sensor at the connector it should read between 125-275 ohms.

EDIT: not applicable on 92-95's.

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I didn't click the link because it says "power probe" in the url.
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post #44 of Old 11-30-2011, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Check the resistance in the CRANK (not cam) position sensor at the connector it should read between 125-275 ohms.
Which pin to which pin? Went out there and couldn't read a resistance on the connector coming from the sensor.

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post #45 of Old 11-30-2011, 12:24 PM
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May have just ruled out the coolant temp sensor:

Changed plugs/wires/cap/rotor and cranked it for a bit and got it started and ran it up to temp.
Shut it off, waited a minute, cranked and started on one turn.
Shut it off, waited 5 minutes, cranked and cranked and cranked and no start.

Doesn't sound like it's getting any spark, but it was hot still when I tried to start it again. I believe that should rule out the coolant temp sensor.

Going back to thinking that maybe it is the crank position sensor, but I can't really justify why, nor do I know how to test it properly. Still so odd that it is something that came on so suddenly, didn't even produce a warning of any sort.
Something that is sending a signal or power is not working all the time. I would be very surprised if this is not an electrical issue.

Does the CEL come on every time the ignition is turned to the ON position for a few seconds. Do you see the CEL go on whenever you turned the key to the ON position but it did not start? VERY IMPORTANT I would think.

You think it is not getting power to the plugs when it does not turn over. You have to prove that.

When it is cranking but not turning see if the distributer is getting power from the coil. If it is how about the individaul plugs?

In the Power Distribution Center under the hood. What conditon are the relay/fuse sockets? Are they clean or do they show signs of corrosion?

Until you narrow down what system is failing at what point you could throw parts at this jeep until you are broke...

Do you know what was good about the good old days? I wasn't good, And I wasn't old!

Senators and Congressman should wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers so we could identify their corporate sponsors....
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