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Unread 11-27-2011, 05:56 PM   #16
laybackman
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Quote:
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By finagle I meant the same as what I did before, pump the pedal while cranking. But if the fuel pump was an issue it wouldn't even run smoothly or anything, once it's running it works just fine. Except for when it stalled out, which has only happened a few times.

Definitely think it just decided to get dumb on me because it knew I had a week with less homework than usual.
Sometimes low compression can be an issue with cold starts. Once the block is warmed up everything expands and fits tighter.

Maybe I missed this; when did the plugs get changed last? If you did change them did you actually check the gap of those plugs whenn the were installed?

Next, I would remove the Idle Air Control sensor from the throttle body and clean it and the bore it sits in with carb cleaner and fine steel wool.

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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:02 PM   #17
The Rat
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sounds like a tune up is needed and filter change.

sidenote: hows the 35's and dana 35 with 3.07 gears holding up?
Doing all that this week.

To respond to your sidenote: That Jeep hated it so much that it burst into flames about it (I made a thread about it when it happened, I'm sure). I haven't had the heart to change my profile yet.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by The Rat View Post
Update on this: Hot start it fires right up. Let it sit for a few hours and go out there again, needs me to finagle it to get it to start. Not sure what that translates to.
A bad fuel pump. When you key on, it should build up pressure immediately. When you let it sit for a while, it loses pressure. That's why it starts right up when it's hot, it hasn't had a chance to leak down. Check your fuel pressure.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:48 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by JKRolling View Post
A bad fuel pump. When you key on, it should build up pressure immediately. When you let it sit for a while, it loses pressure. That's why it starts right up when it's hot, it hasn't had a chance to leak down. Check your fuel pressure.
In all of my experience, I have yet to do this. How do I check that, and what should I be getting?
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Unread 11-27-2011, 06:58 PM   #20
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In all of my experience, I have yet to do this. How do I check that, and what should I be getting?
It should be at 31 PSI. It should hold over 20 PSI after sitting for an hour or so IIRC. It should build pressure immediately if you turn the key without starting. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge or buy one pretty cheap at Harbor Freight, less than $20 IIRC. It screws onto the test port on the fuel rail.

One side note, both the fuel pump and the regulator should have check valves in them, which keep the pressure when its off. Most likely your fuel pump is getting weak tho. Hope that helps!
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Unread 11-27-2011, 07:46 PM   #21
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You referring to the valve on the rail as the test port? The one for relieving pressure for replacing the filter.
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Unread 11-27-2011, 08:14 PM   #22
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You referring to the valve on the rail as the test port? The one for relieving pressure for replacing the filter.
Yep, that's the one.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 09:33 PM   #23
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Just a quick update on this:
Went to AZ and picked up my plugs of choice (Champion copper truck plugs) and a new cap, rotor and wires. Also picked up a fuel pressure test kit. Was getting too dark, too quickly, to test it so I tried to start it and took a video this time.


Look familiar? This was from a cold start, pumped the pedal a bit and cranked it a while and then it would do this. Eventually started up and ran fine but I didn't move it, just let it warm up to temp and then shut it down.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 10:05 PM   #24
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looks like you could have a leaking injector. which makes sense. after the jeep runs and has pressure then its turned off the pressure leaks ou of the injector into the motor, then when you goto start it you have no fuel pressure and it takes a while to build back up and start. which also explains the raw gas fumes coming out the exhaust


the fuel pressure test will confirm this also.
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Unread 11-28-2011, 10:30 PM   #25
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looks like you could have a leaking injector. which makes sense. after the jeep runs and has pressure then its turned off the pressure leaks ou of the injector into the motor, then when you goto start it you have no fuel pressure and it takes a while to build back up and start. which also explains the raw gas fumes coming out the exhaust


the fuel pressure test will confirm this also.
Not sure how that would cause it to stall out so quickly, though.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 05:47 AM   #26
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Are getting a good blue-white spark that has a 'crack to the sound? Yes?

Then: When was the air ceaner changed. Remove ti and see how it runs.

No Change?

Remove the IAC from the TB and clean it and the bore it sits in with 0000 steel wool and carb cleaner. I fact give the entire TB a shot of carb cleaner while it is running.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 09:14 AM   #27
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Are getting a good blue-white spark that has a 'crack to the sound? Yes?

Then: When was the air ceaner changed. Remove ti and see how it runs.

No Change?

Remove the IAC from the TB and clean it and the bore it sits in with 0000 steel wool and carb cleaner. I fact give the entire TB a shot of carb cleaner while it is running.
^^ Didn't have time to check the spark since I have class in 20 minutes, however, I did have time to check the fuel pressure. Primed it to about 20psi and jumped to 35psi+ when I cranked it. Not a fuel issue.

Gonna change the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor later on (or tomorrow). The female end of the plug on the CKP is pretty ****ty looking...not sure if that has anything to do with it, but how hard is it to remove that from the harness and reconnect it because that could very well be the problem.

Still don't understand how pumping the pedal got it to fire up or why the daytime running lights didn't come on.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 09:58 AM   #28
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^^ Didn't have time to check the spark since I have class in 20 minutes, however, I did have time to check the fuel pressure. Primed it to about 20psi and jumped to 35psi+ when I cranked it. Not a fuel issue.

Gonna change the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor later on (or tomorrow). The female end of the plug on the CKP is pretty ****ty looking...not sure if that has anything to do with it, but how hard is it to remove that from the harness and reconnect it because that could very well be the problem.

Still don't understand how pumping the pedal got it to fire up or why the daytime running lights didn't come on.
If the IAC is not functioning properly (OR the TPS) pumping the pedal might be the only 'fix'. That is why I mentioned cleaning the IAC sensor located in the TB before you throw abunch of parts at the problem......possibly causing a second problem. NEVER do more than one thing to an engine without firing it up in between 'things' If you do four things to an engine then hit the key and you get zip what went wrong????
IF your fuel pressure drops off from 35PSI to 20 PSI or so soon after shutting this engine off you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator.

I think the DRL's not working is a seperate issue IF it even has DRL's.

I thought they were only mandatory and installed for Canadian YJ/XJ?
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Unread 11-29-2011, 11:46 AM   #29
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It's a Canadian spec YJ, DRLs are standard. Also an engine block heater. Thing is so silly.

Wouldn't a bad TPS be giving me a code? Replaced one before on my old YJ and it was so simple but it had been giving me a CEL.
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Unread 11-29-2011, 12:57 PM   #30
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It's a Canadian spec YJ, DRLs are standard. Also an engine block heater. Thing is so silly.

Wouldn't a bad TPS be giving me a code? Replaced one before on my old YJ and it was so simple but it had been giving me a CEL.
IF it is out of range it trips the CEL.

My guess is the IAC is very dirty. It cost almost nothing to clean the IAC. Once done dump the learned memory in your YJ and take it for a ride. See what happens.

See if the DRL module is in place. It is under the air box on the drivers side. Iy gets a message from the VSS that the vehicle is moving.

I would concentrate on the engine issues first.
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