Need input on radiator flush - JeepForum.com

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  • 1 Post By Que89YJ
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
Unsteady
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Choctaw
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Need input on radiator flush

I'm looking for a time slot in my schedule to get my cooling system flushed and replace the thermostat (it's sticking...Or stuck).

The "fluid" that's in there right meow is at least 15 years old, probably closer to 20.

This aint my first rodeo...I know how to do it. I know how to burp it.

BUT. I now live in a place where the water is ridiculously hard. Sediment isn't MUCH of a problem, but this water isn't what I'd call clean. So I'm not about to flush my cooling system with this stuff, and it's going to need a lot of flushing...The stuff that's in there is rust colored, smelly, and opaque.

I could flush it with the well water, then try and get as much out as I could by just pouring in fresh filtered ozarka or something, but I'm not sure I trust that to remove all the hard water. That stuff is bad enough on the Pex and fixtures in the house, I'd hate to see what it does to the inside of hotarse engine.

So...Any suggestions? I'm tempted to just take it down to a shop and have it done. Which would also solve my second (minor) problem. Nobody around me takes used antifreeze for recycling.


1994 YJ Sahara. 4.0 Automagic transmission, rocket headlights, SOA, list item #15, bag of hammers, 1/2 tank of gas, GPS with a map called up to get me to t
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 01:50 PM
Que89YJ
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Your flushing it. It isn't going to be in there long enough to scale up and deposit. Just make sure to fill it with the premix when youre done.
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post #3 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 01:58 PM
Chrisnvegas
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All the present day "cooling system flush" is crap because of the EPA.
If you radiator is healthy, you can follow the old chrisnvegas flush n fill.

Remove radiator, place on ground and get elcheapo CLR (calcium lime rust) from the dollar store. It's weaker than the real thing, but still works wonders.
I used about 5 bottles.
Let sit in the radiator about 20 mins, pour out and watch the crud run out then flush clean. Wow!
While it's soaking, remove t-stat and heater hoses. Flush heater core both ways. You will watch the crud run out.
Flush out the block till it runs clear. Alternate between hoses, t-stat holes and heater core holes.

Then I used my air compressor to blow out all the hose water from block and heater core.
I was careful with the compressor, I have a big one at 155 psi.

Re assemble leaving off the uppermost hose to heater core. This works best to remove air. Lets the air out at highest point in block.
Refill 50/50 distilled till runs out upper hose, replace hose, top off radiator, overfill coolant tank. It will take what it needs over the next couple cycles.

Done and cleaner than a shop would get.
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
Unsteady
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Your flushing it. It isn't going to be in there long enough to scale up and deposit. Just make sure to fill it with the premix when youre done.
I don't mind flushing it with well water...My concern is with not getting it all back out when I fill it with the stuff that's going to stay in there. I'm just being the Jeep equivalent of a helicopter parent.

"But he needs speshul gluten free water!"

Still though, I fill a pot with this water, and boil it, it damn near ruins the pan.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
All the present day "cooling system flush" is crap because of the EPA.
If you radiator is healthy, you can follow the old chrisnvegas flush n fill.

Remove radiator, place on ground and get elcheapo CLR (calcium lime rust) from the dollar store. It's weaker than the real thing, but still works wonders.
I used about 5 bottles.
Let sit in the radiator about 20 mins, pour out and watch the crud run out then flush clean. Wow!
While it's soaking, remove t-stat and heater hoses. Flush heater core both ways. You will watch the crud run out.
Flush out the block till it runs clear. Alternate between hoses, t-stat holes and heater core holes.

Then I used my air compressor to blow out all the hose water from block and heater core.
I was careful with the compressor, I have a big one at 155 psi.

Re assemble leaving off the uppermost hose to heater core. This works best to remove air. Lets the air out at highest point in block.
Refill 50/50 distilled till runs out upper hose, replace hose, top off radiator, overfill coolant tank. It will take what it needs over the next couple cycles.

Done and cleaner than a shop would get.
That's close to what I was planning on. I'll probably replace all the hoses as I go, just because.
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post #5 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 05:55 PM
Chrisnvegas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unsteady View Post
I don't mind flushing it with well water...My concern is with not getting it all back out when I fill it with the stuff that's going to stay in there. I'm just being the Jeep equivalent of a helicopter parent.

"But he needs speshul gluten free water!"

Still though, I fill a pot with this water, and boil it, it damn near ruins the pan.




That's close to what I was planning on. I'll probably replace all the hoses as I go, just because.
The reason shops don't turn me on for this sort of thing, they don't give a ****.
They will do a quicky flush, make their commission, NEXT!
Will they take the time like I described?
No.
Will they use a compressor to blow out the hose water? No.
The technician is only interested in beating the book time so he has a good paycheck.

I was surprised at how well that dollar store CLR worked.

I was also glad I pulled the radiator. The front of the fan clutch was covered in gunk, it had been leaking.
Still worked... kinda... but once I replaced, found it was barely working at all.

You have an extra trans oil cooler?


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post #6 of 6 Old 06-10-2016, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
Unsteady
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Choctaw
Posts: 334
Yeah, I've got an external in addition to the factory srtup.

I need to flush that too lol
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