I just built my 88 YJ this past winter. I have a 305 carbed SBC and a 4 speed SM465 tranny. When the previous owner did the motor swap, he did it all wrong. I reinstalled it correctly with better placement, and new Advanced adapters motor and tranny mounts, and works well.
When I installed the clutch master cylinder through the firewall to the pedle, I noticed that he had welded on an extension to the shaft that pushes in an out. Looked pretty redneck. Instead, i installed another stock master cylinder of the same year, but once bled, the clutch did not have enough throw to disengage the gears. I swapped out the m cylinder for the one with the homemade extension, and it worked perfectly. I now understand why he did it.
The problem is, the peddle sits about 4 inches higher from the floor then the gas and brake, and I can barely get my leg high enough with the wheel tilted all the way up. How can I fix this?I want the peddle at the stock height. Perhaps a aftermarket master cylinder with more volume per stroke, or even a swapped unit from another vehicle.
I think I understand what you mean because I have seen clutch pumps with welded extensions before, in my opinion that's a pretty crappy way to deal with the problem... Maybe you can use a clutch pump from the donor vehicle of your transmission?
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
I don't mind writing for Fernando because he reads, and re-reads EVERY WORD!... Good to write for someone that actually READS the answer, and takes time to UNDERSTAND what comes back for an answer!
I haven't done alot of research on this issue so take this idea with a grain of salt as it may sound redneck too. If it were me in this situation I would disconnect the pedal from the mounting bracket and slide the pedal(still connected to the push rod) forward at the top til it drew the pedal back to just above the brake pedal and redrill my holes. Then disconnect the rod from the pedal and bring it down lower on the pedal to reach the firewall for full push and redrill it there. if you don't lower the rod on the pedal it will start pushing the rod up instead of in and defeat the purpose. That should bring the pedal down and still give you full throw of the rod for disengagement.
I inquired with Advanced Adapters today with my problem. They have helped me out of a few jams now, and I have 4 of their products already on the jeep. Great gear. Anyway, Here is the reply...
We do not offer a larger bore master for a YJ. You did not say what
slave cyl you are using at the trans. If you are using a factory GM
hydraulic bellhousing the only thing I can recommend is getting the
matching chevy master cylinder and modify to for the pedal and firewall.
If you have things working with the stock master you would have to move
the attachment point on the pedal and maybe the location of the master
on the firewall to get the ratio correct. Hope this helps.
So I like this idea. Ultimately, if I could move the Master downwards on the fire wall, and move the mounting point on the pedal, then the distance of the stroke would increase, therefore allowing the pedal to not to have to rise as far at rest. I have no idea if this can work, but tomorrow in the daylight I will see what I have to work with.
i myself have bought a knuckle dragger botch job myself and this was also an issue just it was a early bronco . remembered replacing the brake master cylinder a few months before . on the shaft between the pedal arm and the piston was a jam nut that required adjustment due to different thicknesses in firewalls from year to year . i adapted this experience to my clutch master by dremel tooling off a good square end (shaft was rounded) then threaded the end an inch or so and added a jam nut . after this i took the old brake master and yanked out the plunger and cut off a 2 inches from the pedal end of the shaft and threaded about 1.5 inches of the cut end . i then added a jam nut and a threaded rod coupler chopped in half , did a little custom grinding and drilling thus making an adjustable shaft and not the welded shaft which was there before just as you have now . it roughly only gave me 2 inches of adjustment but if you figure the geometry 2 inches there gained me maybe 3 at the pedal surface . if 3 would help you then heres another idea shared otherwise you can add spacers on the m/c side of the firewall like a bud of mine did .