need help with my 1993 jeep wrangler, can anyone help? - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-06-2010, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
Fouse
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need help with my 1993 jeep wrangler, can anyone help?

what are the rubber groments between the body and the chasis called. i believe there are 4, 2 on each side located in between the tires. there is a rubber groment on top of the frame and under it. mine are rotting out and i would like to replace them but i dont know what they are called. thanks

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post #2 of 10 Old 05-06-2010, 10:42 PM
Burns95
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Those are the body mounts.
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post #3 of 10 Old 05-07-2010, 12:00 AM
Lockmin
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You need a body mount bushing kit. And there are 11 mounting points of the body to the frame. I know I did it last fall/winter (93 YJ). About 100 bucks and up for a kit. I got the urethane ones, They are stiffer and last eons. You should drill a small hole above them and soak the livin hell out of them with something like WD-40 for a couple weeks before. YOU WILL PROBABLY SNAP MOST OF THE BOLTS OFF. Unless you have one with little rust. You will need a torch, a body panel saw, a friend or two, and someone to MIG weld the body steel you'll have to cut and peel up to access the top nuts. I had access to a hoist which really really helped. Oh and be prepared to use a tap or die to clean the threads up you don't snap off. Figure a couple days so you can take your time and do it right cause you won't wish to do it for awhile after. Good luck.
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post #4 of 10 Old 05-07-2010, 12:08 AM
Fhajad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockmin View Post
You need a body mount bushing kit. And there are 11 mounting points of the body to the frame. I know I did it last fall/winter (93 YJ). About 100 bucks and up for a kit. I got the urethane ones, They are stiffer and last eons. You should drill a small hole above them and soak the livin hell out of them with something like WD-40 for a couple weeks before. YOU WILL PROBABLY SNAP MOST OF THE BOLTS OFF. Unless you have one with little rust. You will need a torch, a body panel saw, a friend or two, and someone to MIG weld the body steel you'll have to cut and peel up to access the top nuts. I had access to a hoist which really really helped. Oh and be prepared to use a tap or die to clean the threads up you don't snap off. Figure a couple days so you can take your time and do it right cause you won't wish to do it for awhile after. Good luck.
lolololololololololololol

You're in Wisconsin, OP is in California.

You story's invalid.

EDIT: Also, you're read poorly. Who uses WD-40? PB Blaster, fool.
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post #5 of 10 Old 05-07-2010, 12:57 AM
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Welcome to the forum, Fouse.

You will find that many people on here will be very glad to help you. I am pretty sure there is a thread on here, maybe on FAQ that shows photos etc on how to replace your body mount bushings, either with stock, or with a body mount lift kit. I'll look for it and link it in shortly if I can find it.
PB blaster is the Jeepers friend, most of us use it as cologne as well. It comes in a spray can with a little red spray straw and can be purchased at most quality auto parts stores, and I have also seen it in places like Wallyworld. Don't expect a quick spurt to be enough, you need to soak the bolt threads a few times over a few days for best results. PB is "penetrating fluid." To access some of the 11 body mount bolts, you may have to drill a straw sized hole thru a body panel, the tub floor or the side of the frame to be able to get the straw in the right place and apply PB magic.

Here is the link from the FAQ: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...-w-pix-705291/

Most complete body mount kits or body lift kits contain all the new hardware, etc. They should since the bolts are longer in the body lift kits. You can purchase these from places like Quadratec, etc. I am sure that numerous people will chime in with further recommendations/sources. As with all things Jeep, don't be in a hurry, and when you reassemble, consider applying a dab of grease or antiseize in the appropriate places. Blue threadlocker as well will help to keep out rust from freezing fasteners as well, believe it or not.

....I'm not smart, but I can lift heavy things.......

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yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-25-2016, 12:14 AM
Lockmin
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So why not acetone and ATF fluid in a 50/50 mix. This has been known to be really good. And cheaper. I also used a lot of neversieze compound while reinstalling them. I should not have to do it again with this Jeep in my life time. It now has a 5.3 GM and a 4L60E tranny and soon to be 8.8, 4.10 gear ford limited slip axle with disc brakes.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-25-2016, 07:44 AM
brianfulcher15
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just going to throw this out here, if you're going to be replacing those, now would be a good time to do a body life on it if you think you ever would want to do that. Since its basically the same amount of work.


If you do a body lift kit, it should come with all new bolts.

1"body lift,1"shackle lift,2.5"spring lift
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-25-2016, 08:17 AM
Que89YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockmin View Post
So why not acetone and ATF fluid in a 50/50 mix. This has been known to be really good. And cheaper. I also used a lot of neversieze compound while reinstalling them. I should not have to do it again with this Jeep in my life time. It now has a 5.3 GM and a 4L60E tranny and soon to be 8.8, 4.10 gear ford limited slip axle with disc brakes.
Getting it to the nut pocket is the bigger issue with the top of the bolts inaccessible. Acetone would be good but you'll be soaking areas you can't see or control where it goes. Have you tried it?

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-26-2016, 10:18 PM
Lockmin
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I predrilled small holes to presoak nuts and bolts. Either way it is still a PAIN in the (you know) to do it, but I am glad to have it done. Heck if they are bad ya'll just have to suck it up and get it done. The other option is to sell it. I will not allow my family and friends to ride in a sub standard (See unsafe) vehicle.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-27-2016, 01:18 AM
Bigmaaty
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Welcome to the forum. The yj may be your next great adventure. All good, accurate advice already given above. I have done it both ways.

My '89 went fairly smooth. I sprayed all 11 bolts every couple of days for more than a month. All the bolts came loose with a little finesse. None broke, but I had to work some of them gently with additional oil. I did a 1" lift with new grade 5 bolts and spacers that I had, total cost about $10 for the bolts. That was probably two years ago and it is still in great shape. In all it probably took less than two hours. And I work slow.

My cj is another story. Almost exactly as described above in post #3 by Lockmin. The cj is not done but before I am able to finish I will be cutting body panels to weld new nuts in the frame. Almost every bolt I have touched has snapped. The only bolts that have not broken are the ones that the frame nut broke loose in the frame, so they just spin now. On a positive note, for the cj I purchased a Prothane 1" kit for around $65 online, clearance priced. The Prothane kit is nice, all the parts and pieces and adequate instructions.

The cj was a socal jeep most of its life but it spent several years later in life in the Colorado mountains. Salt or mag chloride didn't do it any favors. My yj was from Texas, so I was told. I don't think they use much salt down there.
If rust isn't an issue it really is not a bad job. Lots of PB blaster or suitable equivalent and patience.

p.s. If you are interested I have quite a few of the spacers still. Cost you shipping if you want to try them.
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