This just cropped up today as I was driving down the freeway!!! The previous owner said this kind of thing had happened to him and he fixed it a few times and I thought it might have been taken care of but....
The first incident today was at an intersection, idling at a red light, the light turned green, I pull ahead and almost about to shift into 2nd when the engine just loses power and dies. It turns over with the key and cranks to life immediatly. After that while just driving along in like 4th or 5th, I suddenly lose power and the rpms start falling, so I downshifted to third, it rev'ed up a little from the gears and then a moment later it fired back up with a little sputter out of the tail. It hasn't ever done since I got it (about 5 weeks and 2000 miles now, i had to commute a LOT this month). I don't really need to downshift to get it back to life, I didn't have to for a few of the instances, and the duration of the engine not "firing" varies between like half a second to 1 or 2 seconds. Does anyone know of what I can check out or look at?
I don't know if this is related but I also notice that if I am going down a hill and engine braking, I get a lot of sputtering out of the tail. It's a different sputtering than the firing back up from above but it's kind of like a popping sound. It also happens if I'm in neutral and I rev the engine up to over 3500 or so and then release the gas, while it's slowing down. Is this normal or is something really wrong with my rig? Thanks for all the help, this is a great board.
ACK!!! Sorry, was about to insert that info, got caught up fixing some grammer and editing and completely for got to put that in. I have a '95 YJ Rio Grande, 2.5L I-4 Fuel Injected, completely stock as far as engine+drive train goes... 30x9.50 tires. Thanks.
Check if there has been any work on the exost. that popping when you rev and let go sounds like lack of back presher. i had the same problem when i took out my cat. its to to bad sence my muffeler is still a chamber style. i would go with what FLHT says to do. I also dont know if there is an idle adjustment or not on the TB. But if there is it may need to be adjusted a bit. if it is dieing when you let of on the gas and shift gears that could be it. That happened on a F150 we had. Good luck
Its not what you buy...its what you BUILD!!!
1995 YJ ,SOA with 4" procomp front 3.5" BDS rear 1" shackle rear, custom stearing, 35x12.50x15 pro-comp MTs, warn xd9000i, on-board air from A/C, dana 44 rear and 30 front with 4.56, powertrax no-spin rear, custom disks rear/trutrac front, warn front shafts, HD SYE kit, HD front and rear driveshafts, Warn 4X flairs, PIAA 520 ligts and on and on and on :)
Thanks for all the replies, I'll get some Injector cleaner tonite when I go get a fill-up. My YJ has about 72k miles on it. It's not dying when I shift gears, it's almost like it isn't firing or something, I just lose power and start to slow down quickly, sometimes I downshift, the wheels rev the engine and it fires up usually with a bit of a sputter. Happened once last night on my way home and once this morning on my way in actually. My fast-idle is around 1300 or so and my slow-idle is about 900.
I had Cat back pressure problems on my 89 yj but it didn't act like what your describing. When the cat got plugged up I had no power and couldn't get any rpm's. It was a hell of a trip back from Lake Superior to southern Michigan. At Lake Superior starting to come home from a week of wheeling I could get a maximum of 2500 rpms. Buy the time I was about 50 miles from home all I could get was 1400 rpms. I towed her home at that point. If I'd have know it was just a plugged cat, I would have ripped it off with my bear hands rather than try to drive over 11 hours with such limited rpm's (normally a 6-7 hr trip) (towing a trailer with 4 wheelers, along with 3 people and a dog!).
Oh well, live and learn! Back to your problem, you might check all your vacuum hoses to make sure none are broken or disconnected. A broken one can really mess up how well an engine will run.
89' YJ - 4.2 - NV4500 - NP231w/sye - 1" Body Lift - 2 1/2" Rancho Suspension Lift - 31" Firestone MTR - AR Outlaw II - Tomken Bumpers F & R - Warn 8000 front - Warn 6000 rec. mount rear - FlowFit Seats - Tom Woods Rear & Custom 2" front driveshafts
Sounds like my old 4 cylinder Grand Am - I solved the probem by putting in 87 octane gas rather than 86 octane. It took like 3 visits to a garages before someone asked me what octane I was putting in. It stopped doing it after the first fill-up and never did it again. After living with it like that for months I felt really silly.
Alright, I'll fill up with 87, drive it for a day then pour some injector cleaner and see what makes a difference. I'll also check vacuum lines when I get back to my parents place this weekend. Thanks for all the tips.
I have a stock muffler and it hasn't been subjected to any harsh abuse by my hand, just a little gravel banging it when I drove it on a supposed "easy trail" that turned out to be a gravel road. Should I get it checked out somewhere to solve the mystery of my engine braking - popping sound?
Thanks again for eveyrones help. Getting jeep grease on my hands is turning into a habbit or an addiction I'm not sure.. although I'd prefer it to be for mods rather than repairs.
Sounds liuke it might be your fuel pump. I had the same problem a couple of months ago and once I replaced the fuel pump and filter it disappeared. It's a real pain in the *** to replace because of the way it's installed in the factory but it does the tric
4.0 high output, auto
3in Rough Country 32 in Kumho Venture MT
Banks Power full exhaust
KC daylighters on windshield
Warn 5x7 55w on the Warn front bumper
Warn rear bumper and tire carrier
Driver Fx race seats
raingler sport handles
diamond plated rear corners
I'm not getting a miss, or atleast I'm not noticing one. I do occasionally feel some drag or loss of power generally right after or right before a stall incident. I'm going to check out and maybe replace the cat and muffler first and if it still exists, I'll do the fuel filter and pump. Although that seems almost backwards so I might do the filter/pump first.
Is there any way to check out either of these two to see if they are faulty short of replacing them outright?
Well nevermind, unless the exhaust is seriously clogged, I've eliminated that problem. My jeep just died on my way out of work today. Listening to the radio at an intersection about to hit the expressway and all of a sudden my car stalled, just died without any weird sounds or anything, and it won't start back up now. It'll crank but won't fire. Pushed it into a parking lot at work (luckily I wasn't far away) and went back inside to put a few more hours in. Dad's bringing a U-Haul car trailer by in a couple hours so I'll take it home to see what's up. I'll start with the fuel lines and the computer (previous owner had the computer fixed when this happened to him or so he said). Thanks for the help, now I really got to figure out what's wrong..
On the plus side, I got to use my new tow hooks and new tow strap AAA guy stopped and gave me a tow for about 50 yds to the parking lot entrance.
Had the same problem! Installed a new Kat back and muffler, fuel filter. Didnít solve the problem!
It comes and goes. I STILL havenít figured it out yet! (Iím installing a 350 small block when the 4.0 dies) Itís still kicking after 190,000 w/ this problem. But try this - You can check the fuel pressure w/ a fuel gauge to determined if the fuel regulator or fuel pump is bad (changing the pump is a pain). Hayens manual has a good description on the method to check fuel pressure! Check the cadilitic converter to see if itís burnd up too!
Reply with your findings