Hello. I'm in need of some help before this becomes a bigger issue. I own a 1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ Sahara edition, automatic v6 straight. I bought the car for under 5 grand, and it only has 108K miles on it. I brought it to Midas, had the valve cap replaced along with oil change and frayed hose line repaired.
I'm still experiencing the following issues that I want to fix myself before succumbing to an overpriced auto mechanic on Hawaii:
1) When driving at night, I only have High Beams, no low beams.
2) Gas gauge is inaccurate. I filled and ran dry the tank, and found I had about 20 gallons in it clocking out at 250 miles per tank. however, when I heard the car running dry, gas gauge still showed a quarter tank. Is it the bulb in the tank going bad? This also leads into bad gas mileage, in which I am researching engine cleaning kits to fix this issue (already did the Seafoam trick which worked for awhile).
3)Oil gauge: when I'm driving it goes up all the way, but when I stop it swings back to a normal level, so I'm assuming the oil gauge is wrong?
4) Driving at night, though I have high beams on, I have no interior panel lights on, so this is becoming dangerous when I'm driving at night and I need to see how fast I'm going.
5) No radio, but I know I need a harness and speakers. This can be fixed I'm sure when I attach a harness to the Jeep later on.
6) A/C power outlet does not work.
Lastly, when I'm driving I hear a rattling sound. I'm not sure if it is my rear tailgate or if its just the age of the car.
Any input from fellow Jeep owners is appreciative.
1) high beam switch could be bad, dirty, or out of adjustment. Located on top of the column under the dash.
2) gas gauge is notoriously inaccurate. Kinda spendy to fix. Most folks just use their odometer and fill up at 200 miles.
3) also a common occurrence for the oil sender to start reading high as the internal spring weakens. Just get a new sender unit. Mopar is best if you can find one.
4)dash lights is usually the dimmer wheel. Try rolling it up and down to make better contact.
5) do you really need a radio in a jeep in Hawaii?
6)a/c outlet? Air conditioning, or 12V power outlet/ cigarette lighter?
7) these thing have lots of potential rattley bits. You're going to have to give a bit better description of how it sounds, when it happens , and what affects its intensity
Low beams could just be burnt out. Bulbs bought at the same time tend to wear out at the same time.
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89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Welcome to the forum!
Its a pretty big list. There is a bunch of good info on the forum and a cool way to use google to check just the forum here. Take a look and I think you will find a bunch of pics and info using it: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...oogle-1003734/
The fuel level not indicating empty is usually the float hitting on a small plastic tray at the bottom of the tank. Drop the tank and pull it out.
The fuel economy is about 17mpg. You are looking at probably a bad O2 sensor or an exhaust manifold leak.
The fact that the low beams and instrument lights are both out makes me think it could be your headlight switch, since these are both on the same module. Check fuses first, then check the wiring going into this switch. Carefully unplug and clean the connections & see if that fixes it. I don't know how much background you have working with electrical systems, so if that doesn't do it I'd recommend finding someone with the expertise and tools to troubleshoot electrical systems.
Very common for the headlight switch in the dash to go bad and it's only about $20 for a new one; I would start there after checking the bulbs. As mentioned the high/low switch is located on the lower part of the steering column and operated by a rod system.
Regarding your gas gauge - my gas gauge was inaccurate when the YJ rolled off the dealership lot in 1996. Mine buries the needle all the way on the full side and stays there for the first 4-5 gallons of gas before it starts to come down. As long as it's consistent, you could just decide if it's a quirk you can live with before messing around with the sending unit or the gauge.
Regarding mileage - this is something worth reading into and trying to remedy, but remember generally gas mileage goes down as vehicle mileage goes up. 12.5mpg isn't that out of line for a '93 YJ with the AMC 4.0L.
Oil Gauge - Could be a bad gauge, could be a bad sensor, could be accurate and indicating an issue with the engine, or it could just be another quirky poorly calibrated dash instrument that can be lived with. The 4.0L specs from 1995 were 13 psi at 600 rpm (idle) and 37-75 psi at 1600+ rpm. There is a pressure relief device that will operate and spurt oil if you exceed 75. I'm not sure if this applies to the 4.0L from 93, but it's probably close. You should probably have an engine oil pressure test done, or do one yourself if you are concerned.
AC Power Outlet. You have a 120V AC power in your YJ? I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think an AC inverter was offered stock on any YJ. Sounds like an aftermarket upgrade, to me. It's probably a blown fuse somewhere, but automotive inverters are often made of soft cheese and melt down when subjected to even light use. Cheap inverters are a fire hazard - I would probably tear it out and send it on a final journey to the local land fill unless I could verify it's a solid product from a reputable manufacturer. Especially if you find a blown fuse, replace it, and the thing starts making a buzzing noise and pops a brand new fuse right away.
I had a lot of rattles. I put some sheet metal screws into the muffler heat shield to quiet that down. The tilt forward passenger seat makes a lot of noise too. I found keeping the pass seat belt helps hold to seat down an a little quieter.
So I went out yesterday and bought, through a friend's recommendation, a fuel treatment kit to increase gas performance, and I'm starting with a can of Seafoam. The other two parts I don't remember off the top of my head, but he assured me, being a jeep owner himself for many years, that this treatment will work well, so I'm experimenting with it for now.
I also bought the jeep owner's manual for the 93 wrangler yj, and that has been schooling me up on things I didn't understand about cars before.
I replaced my spark plugs yesterday, and found that the middle one was either of a different brand or the bottom had been punctured, so replacing that plus the other ones with minor gunk on them did well for the jeep.
I tried to access the steering column to get to the headlight switch to see if it was damaged, but I think I did something wrong. I only got as far as removing the horn, inner ring, cup, and flat circle piece, and in the time i had left I put it back together and left my DIY shop for the night. This morning around 2am, my horn suddenly went off, and this morning I found out a blew a fuse. Having a spare 10 amp fuse, I replaced it, and the moment I did it shorted again. I went to O'reilly's auto part store, got a new relay thinking that was the problem, put that in and another fuse, and the fuse still blew.
Is there something wrong with the wiring? What is the best way to find the short?
As for the a/c, yes, I mean my power outlet. I have no air conditioner in the car.
Dimmer wheel turns on underside lights, but not panel or has any effect on my headlights. I'm pretty sure I need to get some electrical work done to get this problem fixed, along with the horn, panel lights and otherwise.
I tried that, but the fuse blows the minute I put it in the fuse panel under the hood or press the horn. No sound either. I know there is a short somewhere, but I just don't know what I have to do to find it.
My immediate thought is that you put the flex plate in upside down, or you may have munched the aluminum contact pin, spring, or retainer bushing.
You need special tools to remove the lock plate anyhow.
To get to the high beam switch, you don't really need to take apart the steering wheel. You need to remove the dash panels and drop the column down from its mount.
So yesterday I went out again and bought a multimeter and some wiring tools. I established through help on this forum that the short was definitely coming from either the steering column or the path to the actual horn. I attempted to cut the wiring from the side of the fire wall to the horn, and replaced it with a new wire. Tried again, fuse went out. So in all my frustration, what I did was test the old horn by making it connect with the car battery alone. Found out the horn was probably fried. I ended up making my own horn assembly by attaching a new horn to both a ground and a direct rought to a push button, right back to the battery. More or less, I now have a better car horn working.
As for the highbeams, I wouldn't even know how to drop the column down. Do you have a pic of where exactly I should be looking? If I can find the problem area for the high beams and somehow get my low beams working, that would be great.