Need a full cage - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
1998zj
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Need a full cage

After my buddy rolled over this weekend I decided to get a cage. His rear cage held up well but the windshield collapsed almost into the seat. I am looking for one that adds onto the stock cage that goes completely to the floor. Anyone have any experience rolling one of these types of cages?





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post #2 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 10:38 AM
USAFRecon
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They have front add on and full replacement. Like the prices alot too.

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post #3 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
1998zj
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Do you whack your knees getting in and out?

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post #4 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 10:54 AM
USAFRecon
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I don't have that cage yet. Waiting on getting back stateside to throw one in my TJ.



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post #5 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 11:45 AM
kloppk
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A to Z Fab makes nice cage kits. I chose their front and rear kits for my YJ.

http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/Jeep-Sport-Cages/

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post #6 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 11:51 AM
ImpactFabWorks
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There are a lot of cage kits out there, But I would not even worry about bumping your knee. IMO I am more than willing to sacrafice a little leg room to not die in a roll over. OR Fab makes a kit that maximizes leg room, But I feel like the design leaves something to be desired.

Also when looking for a cage set-up, Look for a kit that has the option of frame tie-ins. I don't tend to trust a mounting plate on sheet metal in a roll over.

1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver
1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver



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post #7 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 12:01 PM
dillonjm
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Some tubing tying the piece that runs between the rear cage and the windshield to the frame is a must as your buddy found out.

There are a couple ways to do it. I think its easier to holesaw a hole for the cage to run through the door and then tie into a frame mounted bracket. The downside to this method is it ties the frame to the body via metal not through a rubber mount which can transmit vibrations.

A nicer way is you can mount it to a plate on the floor and then bolt it through the floor to the frame bracket with a rubber isolator inbetween the frame mount and the body to minimize vibrations.

Most aftermarket cages utilize a similar method. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you tie it into the frame.

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post #8 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 12:31 PM
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What was he doing that caused the roll over?
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post #9 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 12:32 PM
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If you have any local shops capable of doing the work, you might want to check with them. I got a pretty good deal from a local 4x4 shop and they front halfed my cage for $250 if i recall correctly. D.O.M. has gone up since then though. And that only included the sandwich plates on the A pillars, no frame tie in. The easiest way to tie it into the frame is through one of the body mounts. Alot of your rocker guard designs out there have the extension to the body mount. You cut the body mount down the thickness of the rocker guard metal and slide it in and bolt it up. Is it as strong as a direct frame tie in? probably not but its close and that gives you your bushing to.

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post #10 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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What was he doing that caused the roll over?
We were climbing a very steep hill that had concrete poured on it to prevent erosion. I went right up it and waited at the top for him. I couldn't see him but I heard the tires break loose and then hop sideways and then a couple of thuds. We got out and saw him laying upside down near the bottom of the hill. He was a little banged up but ok.
It caught on fire when I rolled it onto its side because the fuel line had been knocked loose and then the battery grounded out. He had a couple of small fire extinguishers that knocked down most of the flames. We used wet sand to put the rest of it out.

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post #11 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 02:00 PM
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I used my old sport bar to upgrade the family bar, for another 50 bucks I will grab another family bar at teh wrecker and add to the front, I have enough left to still do the top of the windsheild, alls I need is along the dash and down to the floor...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/



so for 100 bucks and some welding and cutting it will be all gooder

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...


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family roll bar swap/upgrade..


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1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #12 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 02:17 PM
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If your going the route of making something yourself, Just go to a steel supply and buy some tubing.

1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver
1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver



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post #13 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ImpactFabWorks View Post
If your going the route of making something yourself, Just go to a steel supply and buy some tubing.
And a welder

and a bender

and a notcher

and a plasma cutter helps

all to make a crappy amateur attempt at a cage

This falls under my sig line for sure, especially when a well engineered pre fit cage kit is available for under a grand

Think Green recycle your YJ's sway and trac bars today!

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post #14 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 02:39 PM
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And a welder

and a bender

and a notcher

and a plasma cutter helps

all to make a crappy amateur attempt at a cage

This falls under my sig line for sure, especially when a well engineered pre fit cage kit is available for under a grand
I was simply saying that it would make more sense than trying to find a bunch of stock cages to cut up. It is pretty obvious that you would also need the tooling involved with building such a thing. Not to mention some knowledge of how to do it.

1990 YJ = The Toy/ My Daily Driver
1996 XJ= Wifes Daily Driver



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post #15 of 28 Old 08-23-2010, 02:50 PM
giggityjeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krochus View Post
And a welder

and a bender

and a notcher

and a plasma cutter helps

all to make a crappy amateur attempt at a cage

This falls under my sig line for sure, especially when a well engineered pre fit cage kit is available for under a grand
A grand hey.. mine was 100 bucks DONE, not so bad me thinks, and to buy a kit, one would STILL need a welder, and welding skill,s br still has to be removed, and I have YET to find anything that is 'bolt on' so some cutting and **** is gonna be needed....

any attempt wil lbe amateur, unless a shop does it, even If you order the kit, you still need to weld it in and fit it all, and if everyone is like mine the bar in there is not so straight anymore, so anything will need some kind of fabbing, this all tol took me about a week to fit and weld in place.

thought it turned out pretty good, guess its crap tho, but I saved 900 bucks

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...


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family roll bar swap/upgrade..


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1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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