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Unread 06-07-2013, 10:24 AM   #1
warthog312
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Need a body lift for my engine swap, opinions requested.

Ok guys so if you're not familiar with me or my slow build thread, i'm dropping a mustang 302 small block windsor into my YJ. While I was planning on just using a 1" daystar poly body lift to replace my old bushings and give me a little more clearance, I've hit a crossroads. While the 1" would work, what I'd really like is to get a 2" body lift (don't cruicify me here) so that I can relocate my brake and fuel lines ABOVE the framerail, so that I can run my dual exhaust as close to the frame as possible without getting into problems with heat. It will also help in the positionong of the motor and trans, as the t-18 is really a tall transmission. Now, I know that the general consnsus is that anthing >1" is bad as far as body lifts go, but hear me out. With a 2" I would have the extra fuel, brake, electrical room under the body, AND with the cage I'm working on, I have 6 point frame tie-ins, so that if in a rollover situation, the frame, body, and cage would not seperate. In light of these circumstances I truly feel that 2" isn't the end of the world that some present it to be.

My question is this: I know Daystar is the who's who of body bushings and lifts, and the greast thing they do is not just space on top of the existing mounts, but actually replace the entire system with single piece mounts with a bit of lift built in. I'm looking for somethng exactly like that, but in a 2". Most I've found are the crappy "add a puck" kind, which I'm just not OK with. So, help a brother Jeeper out here guys, I need a 2" standalone full replacement poly body lift, the more links the better!


Thanks in advance everyone, you guys are all a tremendous help!

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Unread 06-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #2
SeanB95YJ
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...gler/year/1994

I know nothing about these..... so I don't know if they're full replacement or if they're add-ons

That said, if you can't find full 2" replacement, then how about getting a 3" BL and installing that WITHOUT stacking... should get you somewhere in the 2" range in that case
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 06-07-2013, 11:21 AM   #3
warthog312
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Yeah, what stinks is that those are the stack kind. What I'm contemplating doing is buying a 1" stack spacer and throwing it atop of the 1" full replacement Daystar kit I already have. Then I would just have to determine the correct length grade 8 bolts to use. Maybe the MORE aluminum ones for strength.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 11:26 AM   #4
87TPIYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...gler/year/1994

I know nothing about these..... so I don't know if they're full replacement or if they're add-ons

That said, if you can't find full 2" replacement, then how about getting a 3" BL and installing that WITHOUT stacking... should get you somewhere in the 2" range in that case
It would ride like poopoo. No shock absorbtion. I have a 2" (cheap puck kind) no issues. It doesnt look crazy stupid like a 3" and I cant tell you how many times I have needed that 2" clearance. I have my driver side exhaust pipe routed over my Tcase.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 01:57 PM   #5
SeanB95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 87TPIYJ View Post
It would ride like poopoo. No shock absorbtion. I have a 2" (cheap puck kind) no issues. It doesnt look crazy stupid like a 3" and I cant tell you how many times I have needed that 2" clearance. I have my driver side exhaust pipe routed over my Tcase.
I understand if the BL were the type of aluminum or hard nylon... I was thinking of (if anyone makes) a 3" poly that's designed to stack with the factory bushings... if you were to put that BL on without the factory bushings, you'd get about 2" or just a touch over.

then again, maybe nobody makes a 3" poly... don't know for sure because I've never looked for one
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 06-08-2013, 05:11 AM   #6
Jones-Maryland
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Have you gotten to the point of putting/mock-up the engine-t18-xfercase in the jeep to check how it fits with body and skidplate,etc/., yet? If so does the t18 fit with stock skidplate? I see the plan to put fuel/brake lines on top of the frame, what is your plan for the fuel filter location with dual exhausts?

Reason I ask, I have collected parts for a similar swap ( I have 351W, T19, NP231). Wondering if/how much body lift will be required.

Like you I am looking for solutions to these.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 11:54 AM   #7
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jones-Maryland
Have you gotten to the point of putting/mock-up the engine-t18-xfercase in the jeep to check how it fits with body and skidplate,etc/., yet? If so does the t18 fit with stock skidplate? I see the plan to put fuel/brake lines on top of the frame, what is your plan for the fuel filter location with dual exhausts?

Reason I ask, I have collected parts for a similar swap ( I have 351W, T19, NP231). Wondering if/how much body lift will be required.

Like you I am looking for solutions to these.
I haven't thrown everything in the frame yet. I'm working on making my own motor mounts as a response to all the bad rap I've seen about Novak and AA mounts, and the factory transmission support/ skid is too cumbersome for my liking. I'm just going to make my own DOM crossmember with poly trans mount and from there work out a skit that *hopefully* with the body lift is significantly more low profile from 3/8" plate steel. The idea of a skid and brace sharing duty is kind of messed up to me, they should each carry their own responsibilities. My fuel filter I was just going to place at the second most rear crossmember, the one that holds the front of the gas tank straps. I'm also going with braided AN all the way for fuel. Although I haven't figured out exactly my needs for a fuel pump yet, many say the factory pump will suffice. That seems iffy...
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Unread 06-08-2013, 12:01 PM   #8
crackedcornish
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just keep your 1" daystar and raise the mounts up on the frame
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....1#.UbNw_NhZ-So
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Unread 06-08-2013, 12:09 PM   #9
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crackedcornish
just keep your 1" daystar and raise the mounts up on the frame
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....1#.UbNw_NhZ-So
GENIUS! I'm honestly upset I didn't think of that. That's what happens when you stare at a problem too long, tunnel vision. Thank you so much, not going to buy them, I'm going to try to fab up my own. Thank you again!
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Unread 06-08-2013, 12:21 PM   #10
crackedcornish
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if you're going to fab them, might as well do them Swag style with the built in body mount skids while you're at it
http://www.swagoffroad.com/BERTHA-Wr...Skid_p_12.html
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