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post #16 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 02:29 PM
Flajeeper1
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I agree that you should contact the inspection people and ask what they are looking for. As to the Weber carb I have one and it runs great! Don't change it before you get answers on the inspection. On your 94' what does the frame look like? That's a fairly good wrinkle in the side.

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post #17 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 04:08 PM
superj
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it looks like a 32/36 which is super easy to tune. i would connect that brass barb to the black hose that has a tee right in front of it.

get a picture of hte linkage on the carb, if you can move it and one side of the venturi valve opens before the other, then it is a progressive 32/36 (opens differently). if both venturi butterflies open together while you moe the throttle linkage, like at exactly the same time, you have a synchronous weber 38 which is an even better carb

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #18 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
mcgyver210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flajeeper1 View Post
I agree that you should contact the inspection people and ask what they are looking for. As to the Weber carb I have one and it runs great! Don't change it before you get answers on the inspection. On your 94' what does the frame look like? That's a fairly good wrinkle in the side.
I believe I may just see what happens after they get here maybe Ill get Lucky & they both will pass.

I believe we looked at the frame & it wasn't hit but I will know more when they are delivered.



Quote:
Originally Posted by superj View Post
it looks like a 32/36 which is super easy to tune. i would connect that brass barb to the black hose that has a tee right in front of it.

get a picture of hte linkage on the carb, if you can move it and one side of the venturi valve opens before the other, then it is a progressive 32/36 (opens differently). if both venturi butterflies open together while you moe the throttle linkage, like at exactly the same time, you have a synchronous weber 38 which is an even better carb
So is this one that may be able to pass sniffer test?

Ill save this & check once they get here thanks for the info & advice. What is better about the W-38 though?

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post #19 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 06:35 PM
superj
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the 32/36 is for gas mileage and is still fun though. the 38 is just for straight power as it opens both venturis at the same time instead of one after each other like the 32/36.

i say even better but i mean more power. they are both fantastic carbs that have a huge following and great reputation. tons of bmw guys run them, honda guys, jeep guys, everyone.

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #20 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
mcgyver210
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the 32/36 is for gas mileage and is still fun though. the 38 is just for straight power as it opens both venturis at the same time instead of one after each other like the 32/36.

i say even better but i mean more power. they are both fantastic carbs that have a huge following and great reputation. tons of bmw guys run them, honda guys, jeep guys, everyone.
Thanks you explained well.

So I would assume the 38 will use more fuel also?








Now as for my Emissions testing.

They check for Cat, Test Fuel Cap, 1995 & older gets Sniffer test \ 1996 & Newer gets Computer OBD2 test.

1. So if I have understood everyone here I may not need to replace existing Weber to pass a sniff test?

2. It will have new Cat & I believe someone said it needs to be Nuttered which would make O2 Sensor non functional?

3. I was also wondering if Team Rush will help with emissions?

4. Seems I may need a Fuel Regulator also?

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post #21 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 06:58 PM
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yes, you will needa fuel regulator to run a weber. they like 3.5 psi or they will give you trouble.
the weber 38 does indeed use more gas as it is syncronous instead of progressive
you might be able to pass with the weber if thats all they do but its got to be tuned well
o2 is already non functioning, probably.
rush upgrade will probably help as it gives a better fire at hte plug for a better burn

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #22 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 06:59 PM
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and congratulations. you are now part of the club, i can tell already

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #23 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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superj Thanks for the Welcome I do feel like part of the club & look forward to learning more & plan on giving the premium membership a try when it is in our budget. This economy has had our business riding a roller coaster for a few years now.

I actually read many post before ever posting because I research everything I do no matter how complicated or simple it is.

Im definitely not a mechanic so I have allot to learn & will probably ask quite a few DUMB ????s

I really can't wait to get them here so I can start the learning process!!! Also my son needs more mechanical knowledge since he is a computer geek type.



PS. What do you think of the two Jeeps based on Pics?

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post #24 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:18 PM
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yup, one of my boys is hte same way. once he gets a car though, that will change. my brother was the same way and he once had a nicely built wrangler and builds 280z cars now

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #25 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:20 PM
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Your only hangup passing the sniffer with that carb is if it is jetted properly for that motor. (the jets are sold by size and easily changed).

If it isn't jetted right, you won't be able to adjust it for optimal burn.

Webers aren't my specialty, but there are several here that are experts on it. They can help determine if it is jetted right and help you get it tuned properly.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #26 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:22 PM
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i think if you search on here or on google, there is a little guide that gives you good starting jet sizes. i used one on my bmw as my 32/36 was from a jeep, ha ha ha

I don't feel like working on anything, at this time.
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post #27 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Your only hangup passing the sniffer with that carb is if it is jetted properly for that motor. (the jets are sold by size and easily changed).

If it isn't jetted right, you won't be able to adjust it for optimal burn.

Webers aren't my specialty, but there are several here that are experts on it. They can help determine if it is jetted right and help you get it tuned properly.
Thanks I assume what is on it is just what ever came with the kit when PO converted.

I also was quite surprised so many said positive things on Weber for emissions considering all the negative I read while researching. Must have read wrong post

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post #28 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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I will definitely need advice on the carb when it is physically here.

I will need to figure out the extras for TeamRush also, TFI, E-coil? Still reading to figure best way.

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Everyone has an opinion & this is just mine sorry if it offends anyone.

| ______
/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
./.\.\./.\.,,,./.\
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1994 Red YJ 4.0L MT
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post #29 of 36 Old 09-27-2011, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mcgyver210 View Post
I will definitely need advice on the carb when it is physically here.

I will need to figure out the extras for TeamRush also, TFI, E-coil? Still reading to figure best way.
You won't need to replace the coil, the team rush parts work fine with a stock coil.

There is a mod to replace the Motorcraft Duraspark ICM with a GM ICM from an early GM HEI distributor. This made as much difference in performance on my 4.2 as the Team Rush mod did. Cheap and easy to do. (Google Junkyard Genius Stealth HEI).

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #30 of 36 Old 09-28-2011, 03:23 PM
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Thanks for the reply Patrick it is really appreciated.
Hey there,
I checked in today.

After reading all the responses, I'm sure you aren't worried about support to get these two running right.

I have to disagree with 4X on the stock coil with the TR cap and related parts.
The stock coil has a very low power output....like 10-12k volts. The MSD coil (or any of those transformer shaped coils) have 40k volts or more of power to send to the plugs. The larger cap and rotor are to aid in sending the spark in the right direction without misfire. The copper contacts make it that much easier for the spark to travel.

So why use a lighter when a blow torch can be made to do the job better?

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