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Registered User | nates93yj BUILD
Last edited by nates93yj : 02-27-2009 at 08:32 PM. | ||
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| #2 | ||
Web Wheeler | Quote:
Weird Shackles on that green jeep there. haha. __________________ Thomas 1987 YJ 4.2L BA-10/5 NP231 4" Rough Country, 3/4" BrandonYj Shackles, No Trackbars or Sways, SS Extended Brake Lines, Weber 32/36 (Nuttered), 10" Tuffy Stereo Console, Light Bar, Custom Made Line-Xed Bumpers and Fenders, Chevy Heater Motor Upgrade, 33x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s | |
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| #3 | |
Registered User | thanks Tompatt, so i just copy and paste the img code instead |
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| #4 | |
Web Wheeler | yep. __________________ Thomas 1987 YJ 4.2L BA-10/5 NP231 4" Rough Country, 3/4" BrandonYj Shackles, No Trackbars or Sways, SS Extended Brake Lines, Weber 32/36 (Nuttered), 10" Tuffy Stereo Console, Light Bar, Custom Made Line-Xed Bumpers and Fenders, Chevy Heater Motor Upgrade, 33x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s |
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| #5 | |
jeepin my brains out bro | i thinks its a shackle reversal for the trouble it is, i would just repair the tub. its a lot cheaper, your probably gonna spend 30$ on the rust repair product of your choice ( i go eastwood), maybe 40$ on sheet metal, and i forget what body filler runs these days. Its a lot easier then taking everything off the old tub, and saves you a few months __________________ for sale: posi-lok system, 87-91 smittybilt bed cover in black denim used a week, 92+ bestop bed cover, wind jammer, and bikini top. CJ-7 full soft doors in black. 2.5L parts- ps pump, head, valve cover, push rods, water pump 1991 YJ Kabota orange, worked 93' 2.5L, 97' TJ AX5/NP231J+DS, 19lb injectors, E3 diamond plugs, 8mm wires, brown dog mounts, custom exhaust, optima yellow top, Ext Slave convr, Herculined in an under, 1/2 daystar shackles, sky jacker hydro shocks, 1 ton steering, bestop super top w/ soft doors, Centra-pod speakers, not many old parts left on it 1998 XJ 4.0L AW4, 3" Rough Country, 31x10.50 pro comps, 1" Coil Spacers, dynomax super turbo muffler, Magnaflow cat, E3 diamond plugs, missing rear fender flares, 2 lights mounted on each roof rack bar, k&n FIPK II, custom 3" sway bar links, Adjs Track Bar - Sold 08'-09'' 1990 YJ 2.5L ax5 TBI, 30 x 9.5 Fireston AT, Awoogah Horn, Day Lighters, 1" daystar body lift - died 06'-08' |
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| #6 | |
Web Wheeler | Thats what I was thinking at first. __________________ Thomas 1987 YJ 4.2L BA-10/5 NP231 4" Rough Country, 3/4" BrandonYj Shackles, No Trackbars or Sways, SS Extended Brake Lines, Weber 32/36 (Nuttered), 10" Tuffy Stereo Console, Light Bar, Custom Made Line-Xed Bumpers and Fenders, Chevy Heater Motor Upgrade, 33x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s |
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| #7 | |
Registered User | Yep, definitely scrap the frame and body. Shouldn't be too hard to find donors. I bought up 5 parts wranglers in less than a week to put mine together (working on number 2). Body comes right off after you unbolt it and get the firewall untangled. Get a cherry picker and pull the motor, begin rebuilding. Just make sure you do it right and protect your new stuff. Sand off any rust spots and spray paint away. Or better yet herculine the frame, underside and inside of tub. You won't regret that. I had a lot of fun doing mine. Gets frustrating when those body bolts wont come off but other than that it was an enjoyable experience. It also helps when your dad is a jeeper too. Good luck. Randy |
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| #8 | |||
Registered User | Quote:
Quote:
ive had a bad experiance with body filler(put it on to thick).i m not saying its bad just apply like 1/8 inch | ||
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| #9 | |
jeepin my brains out bro | fair enough, if you have the knowledge and money to do it, then go balls deep __________________ for sale: posi-lok system, 87-91 smittybilt bed cover in black denim used a week, 92+ bestop bed cover, wind jammer, and bikini top. CJ-7 full soft doors in black. 2.5L parts- ps pump, head, valve cover, push rods, water pump 1991 YJ Kabota orange, worked 93' 2.5L, 97' TJ AX5/NP231J+DS, 19lb injectors, E3 diamond plugs, 8mm wires, brown dog mounts, custom exhaust, optima yellow top, Ext Slave convr, Herculined in an under, 1/2 daystar shackles, sky jacker hydro shocks, 1 ton steering, bestop super top w/ soft doors, Centra-pod speakers, not many old parts left on it 1998 XJ 4.0L AW4, 3" Rough Country, 31x10.50 pro comps, 1" Coil Spacers, dynomax super turbo muffler, Magnaflow cat, E3 diamond plugs, missing rear fender flares, 2 lights mounted on each roof rack bar, k&n FIPK II, custom 3" sway bar links, Adjs Track Bar - Sold 08'-09'' 1990 YJ 2.5L ax5 TBI, 30 x 9.5 Fireston AT, Awoogah Horn, Day Lighters, 1" daystar body lift - died 06'-08' |
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| #10 | |
Registered User | gotta say for a 15 year old, you seem to know your stuff man, im impressed... good luck with the build, keep us all updated __________________ National Topless Day February '09 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/ntd-2009-a-652630/ |
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| #11 | ||
Registered User | Quote:
if any one is looking for cheap herc try you home town menards, they had it for $76 compared to the cheapest place i found on the internet $90 | |
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| #12 | |
Registered User | Menards is only in the upper mid west but yeah cheapest when its on sale. Yeah a min of 2 gallons if you're going to do all of that. You sure you want to herc the frame? I dunno the mud just seems to like to stick to the hurc. The Rust-oleum hammer paint is pretty amazing stuff. Its up to you though I'm sure it will turn out nice whatever you do. Just take your time and get it done right the first time. __________________ Great Lake Jeep Thing My work http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/sparkys-garage-thread-790873/ |
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| #13 | |
Registered User | Definitely right about the mud sticking to the herc. But it stays put better than most anything else. I was just suggesting that for max durability. I did mine in the hammered paint and its holding up well after a month of driving. But anywhere it get bumped or rubbed i have to go back over it. It seems to me, that it would be an incredible waste to try and use body filler to fix all that rust. Even if you do an outstanding job prepping and applying it you are only buying yourself a year or two. Bondo and most spraypaints can't stop rust only slow it down. Getting a better body is the only choice. When you get the now body make sure you clean up all the little rust spots. Also, do whatever you can for rust prevention. Sand, primer, and paint every spot. Randy |
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| #14 | |
Registered User | if i was going to fix the tub i have now i was going to do it right anyway with minimal bondo and maximum sheet metal. im getting my tub today and my rims so ill post some pics. any suggestions for what to paint on the frame so it will last. thanks |
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| #15 | |
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Northern Kentucky/Cinci Area Posts: 2,488 | POR 15 would be good to cover the frame with. |
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