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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:38 AM   #1
racerx8413
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 107
My YJ-CJ Dash Build

I'm in the process of this, and will be updating daily with pictures and parts used etc.

I started here,

Jeep Dash Board Panels & Overlays Jeep CJ8 Scrambler, CJ7 & CJ5 by Warrior Products

I picked up the Black steel overlay with all cutouts and glove door.
(A Note, they say that it has "all cutouts", but check the picture, it is accurate. It does not have ALL cutouts. It only has the 2 small gauge cutouts, and no radio cutout.

Jeep CJ Dash Parts & Components

I bought the headlight switch, the dash light kit, the 3 air control pull switches, the grab bar, and some nuts and bezels for the switches.

I forgot to buy the headlight knob, which i DO need, and am ordering today.

I then went over to summit and ordered a full set of 2 1/16th gauges (oil, voltage, fuel, water) and a 5 inch Speedometer. I used the Autometer Ultra-Lites. I also ordered a new Fuel sending unit.

I went over to home depot and grabbed a bunch of small zip ties, and zip anchors. I also picked up rectangle shaped piece of tin that I cut to cover the hole for the speedometer. The hole is slightly larger than the autometer 5 inch, so I will be placing that tin behind it, drilling a 5 inch hole for the gauge, then bolting it down to the back of the dash.

Had to rent a steering wheel puller, and completely removed everything from the dash.




Started wiring the dash lights, all single circuit. Every light on the dash that comes on with the headlights will be on the same circuit.


You can kind of see the tin plate to the left that has not been drilled yet. I used 2 of the autometer angled bezels on the far right.


Wiring tacked down,


Gauges wired (I actually went back and wired all the grounds, and then all the ignition on (yellow) wires into a chain, to reduce the amount of wires behind there. I'll post a pic of that tomorrow.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_PqdiviWwCbY/S186yqg1cCI/AAAAAAAAAx8/vdMxHYQhB5w/s720/DSC_1702.JPG





















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Last edited by racerx8413; 02-24-2010 at 10:30 AM.. Reason: updated pic links
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:45 AM   #2
YJyoungster
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Edmonton, AB
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Looks great so far, can't wait to see more!
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:53 AM   #3
93jeepyj
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: windsor locks, CT
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Nice man, looks really well thought out so far. There really is a rats nest of wire in the cj dash compared to the yj dash.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 10:25 AM   #4
cmsurfer
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Looks good so far... I've been wanting to do this swap. I have most of the parts, but I know I'm in way over my head One day...
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Unread 10-22-2009, 10:32 AM   #5
93jeepyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmsurfer View Post
Looks good so far... I've been wanting to do this swap. I have most of the parts, but I know I'm in way over my head One day...
It took me a few months to gather all the parts and then probably another 6 to finally decide to dive in head first.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 10:51 AM   #6
racerx8413
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Oh i never said I knew what I was doing :P
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Unread 10-22-2009, 12:32 PM   #7
57plymouth
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I like the thumbscrews to retain the guages. You clearly have put some time into accommodating future service. Why did you go with crimp terminals instead of soldering the terminals? Seems that you would have used better connections to go with the quality of the work you have put into the project.
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Unread 10-22-2009, 12:45 PM   #8
racerx8413
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I did all of the back of the dash last night, and actually re-did a few parts of it. I'm honestly probably going to take the gauges back out and put some sort of coating on the dash overlay, if not just a flat black paint.

When I do that, I'll try my hand at the soldering, I don't feel terribly comfortable with the crimps. Any suggestions are more than welcome.

Another thing I think I'll do is put terminal blocks on the back of the dash, for the ground, ignition on, and lights on, as well as a seperate fuse for the two power circuits, and plugs (for easy unplug and plugin)
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Unread 10-22-2009, 02:01 PM   #9
SeanMo
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This is very cool - I'd like to see more pics, too. I like those CJ dashes a lot
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Unread 10-22-2009, 09:45 PM   #10
57plymouth
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You can get weatherpack sets from Pep Boys. I used them on my Lil Red Express truck and it made dash removal a cinch. Get a bundle of heat shrink tubing, then use some wire dykes to pull the insulation off crimp terminals. Put some heat shrink on the wire before you crimp on the terminal without the insulation. Then get a small torch or a soldering iron. Heat the crimped connection until the solder will melt into it. DO NOT heat the solder to flow it in, but heat the connection to melt the solder into the connection. Then slide the heat shrink in place and heat it to seal the connection. I used a butane torch about the size of a lighter, and I re-wired that truck from front to back. It takes more time, but it makes a much better connection.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 12:33 AM   #11
1bad92yj
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Looks good so far. I worked on my dash gathering parts and such for months and then finally put it in. I still dont have all of the pieces yet lol.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 09:22 AM   #12
racerx8413
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I took it all apart last night, and sprayed the dash with rubberized undercoating. It looks really, really nice.

See pictures below so you can see texture.

I also picked up some terminal blocks, wired them together so that I can consolidate several grounds into 1 wire, then wired in a PC 12 volt type connector.





BUT, now I have a problem. I cut and sprayed the plate for the speedometer, and apparently, the 5 inch hole saw, is too big for the 5 inch speedometer.



I'm going to wander around the hardware store tonight, and look for black rubber circular gaskets, or maybe weatherstripping i can glue to it or something. Does anyone hae any suggestions? Here's what the plate looks like in the dash. I really don't want to cut another piece.



Also, If I can find a good rubber grommet or something to place underneath the lip of the dash, It might help alleviate the problem that I think I'm going to have here,


See the Defrost Vent? The openings are flush behind the dash, but the angle that they slope down at, may interfere with the top gauges. Maybe. If I can push the gauges out of the dash slightly, similiar to the way the angle pods are pushed out. I'm looking for any and all suggestions like the soldering connectors, I refuse to half-*** any of this work.
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Unread 10-23-2009, 09:25 AM   #13
racerx8413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 57plymouth View Post
You can get weatherpack sets from Pep Boys. I used them on my Lil Red Express truck and it made dash removal a cinch. Get a bundle of heat shrink tubing, then use some wire dykes to pull the insulation off crimp terminals. Put some heat shrink on the wire before you crimp on the terminal without the insulation. Then get a small torch or a soldering iron. Heat the crimped connection until the solder will melt into it. DO NOT heat the solder to flow it in, but heat the connection to melt the solder into the connection. Then slide the heat shrink in place and heat it to seal the connection. I used a butane torch about the size of a lighter, and I re-wired that truck from front to back. It takes more time, but it makes a much better connection.
After your soldering suggestion, I went back and started soldering the connectors I had crimped on. Not going to use heat shrink at this time, because my fingers can't take the abuse of stripping that whole wire set again, and I really desire to have this done this weekend.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 06:52 AM   #14
racerx8413
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I held the dash up in place with the top two gauges stuffed in there, the defrost definately gets in the way. I'm thinking about completely removing the stock vents and fabricating something. I don't know.
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Unread 10-24-2009, 07:40 AM   #15
jscherb
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
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You PM'd me and asked me to post my defroster duct fix, so here goes. Be aware this fix was designed for a CJ, not a YJ, for the case where a second row of gauges is added above the stock gauges on a CJ dash - in that case the back of the top row of gauges interferes with the CJ defroster duct. NOTE: the CJ duct and the YJ duct are qute different, the CJ ductwork goes through the top of the cowl, bu the YJ duct sticks halfway through the cowl and halfway out of the cowl, so in order to fully use the fix I'm describing you might have to switch to the CJ-style duct and cowl holes.

I removed the CJ duct completely, and replaced it with what you see in the two photos below.

The top photo shows the new manifold I made from PVC pipe and fiberglass sheet; this goes on top of the heater box and provides for the connection of two flexible tubes.

The bottom photo, taken from below, shows the new duct I made to attach to the bottom of the cowl. The goal of this piece is to move the tubing from the heater box way over to the side (near the glovebox), so the tubing doesn't interfere with the gauges. It is made from PVC pipe, two "y" fittings, and two end caps. Once it was all glued together, I split it in half lengthwise on my table saw so it would bolt up flat to the underside of the cowl.



As I said, this fix may not work for you because it is designed for the CJ ductwork. To convert to the CJ ductwork, you could take the steps below.

See below, the upper photo shows the stock YJ cowl with a CJ windshield. The YJ ductwork isn't in place, but you can see where it would sit against the recess in the cowl edge. You can also see the two oval holes in the bottom of the CJ windshield, which is where the air goes from the ductwork on its way to the windshield.

In the bottom photo, I've made a sheet metal replacement panel to convert the YJ cowl to the CJ style. All of the dashed area in the upper photo is cut out, and this panel is welded in it's place. If you didn't have a welder, this could also be done by overlapping the new panel and using automotive structural adhesive to hold the new panel in place. The new panel is nothing more than a piece of 16-gauge galvanized sheet metal, folded 90 degrees lengthwise, with two oval holes cut in it. You might also have to cut the matching holes in the windshield frame, if yours doesn't have them, and then add CJ-style defroster vents to the frame as well.



Here's a shot of my completed dash. Note the defroster vents on the inside of the windshield frame up near the glass, you would have to add these if you were going to route the defrost air through the windshield like on this CJ.



My defroster works great with this new ductwork.

I hope all of this helps you.
Jeff
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