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My very slow 87 YJ Build Thread.

23K views 56 replies 20 participants last post by  Jims-87YJ 
#1 ·
Well, I figured it was about time to post up my very slow moving project.


This is my 1987 YJ that I purchased back in June of 2000 with 153,000 miles with various minor issues.
Over the last 10 yrs I have been busy fixing various items in no particular order:
• Starter
• Ring Gear on the Flywheel Radiator
• Ring and Pinion on the rear D35 ( I know I should not have wasted my time but I did not know that at the time)
• Sun Rider Soft top (still have the Hard top)
• Bikini Top
• Remanufactured 258 Engine (after the number 3 piston went through the cylinder wall) :mad:




• Weber 32/36 Carb
• Nutter Bypass
• 1" Body and Motor mount lift
• Syncros were going in the original trans so I picked up a $50 swap-meet Peugeot to temporarily hold off on doing a AX-15 swap (has held up for 25k miles so far).
• Homemade Sound Bar, Whiteface Gauge overlays and various other minor things.



• Rear Bumper with Receiver and D-ring tabs
• New Heater Core and Upgraded Blower motor (Definitely worth the time)

I know have over 200,000 miles on this Jeep, so the time has come to do a proper rebuild, as my current frame is rusting at the skid plate. As this Jeep is mostly my DD I wanted to try and minimize my down time with the project. So I picked up a frame that was in very good condition, and will start from there:

had it sandblasted



and just finished coating it with Chassis Saver (from Monster Paints) and top coated that with Chassis Black.


After Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints :2thumbsup:

And Top coated with Chassis Black for UV Protection



Today I ordered a Remanufactured AX-15 and NP231 from Jeep transmission shop in Montoursville, PA.
Next on the list is to order a 2.5" Lift to replace the stock springs that are in very poor condition as are the shocks. I am looking at OME, Skyjacker, RE or BDS haven't made a decision as yet (leaning towards OME).
I have to see how funds go but I would really like to put an 8.8 in, but at the moment the D35 is solid. :shhh:
I do not plan on rock crawling, and no major off roading. Plan on 31-33" tires again depending on Funds.
Well that's all for now I will post any more progress pics up as they happen, but do not expect too much until Feb.

Thanks for looking, any and all comments welcome.
 
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#2 ·
looking good man. I would stray away from Skyjacker IMO, thats what my PO put on my YJ when I bought it. OME or RE should be way better. Also good build so far even though there isn't a difference in the years of the YJs by much, I still like seeing 87 yjs haha. makes me not feel alone. i want to see more! ha.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the heads up on the lift, I really am leaning towards OME (great reputation) or BDS (Great Warranty).
Yeah with the Holidays upon us and the frigged temps in the garage, I will be spending the next two months accumulating parts, then by the end of Feb I should be good to go...
 
#5 ·
looking good, did you get a good deal on the ax15 and NP231?

Also, I've never seen that internal frame coating before. How was it applied? Just sprayed as far as you can into the frame or is there a way to make sure it will coat the entire inside?
 
#6 ·
The Frame coating is from Eastwood and has an 18" nozzle to reach inside, it did a good job I think.
I'm paying 1,395 for a rebuilt set with an external slave, that was a sale price. been watching the auction site and I think that was fare, plus I can pick up and save shipping.
 
#7 ·
Powder Coated Valve Cover

Here are a few pics of my Aluminum Valve Cover after I had a small local shop Powder Coat it for me. I was getting tired of trying to keep the aluminum one from oxidizing. I think it turned out pretty good for $40 bucks.





During the rebuild I plan on getting a lot of the other brackets powder coated as well.
 
#9 ·
I still have the stock bulbs in with the blue caps taken off, I do not have any issues at night. I do plan on upgrading to LED lights in a few months so we'll see.
 
#10 ·
Well, I picked up a skid plate that was in good condition, had it sandblasted last week and painted it with chassis saver today.





I will be ordering my BDS 2" lift this week, along with various other parts (Brake lines, Power Steering Pump and Fuel sender) and I did order a set of 1/2" Shackles from Bersk (thanks Eddie). I am on the fence about upgrading to the Durango Steering box as I will only have 31-32" tires (not planning on anything bigger at this point).
Well that's it for now as the title states my "slow build", trying to fit it in between work and other stuff...
 
#11 · (Edited)
Updated Progress

Wow I haven't posted in a while. Well I got a newly rebuilt AX-15 and NP231 to go into the rebuild:



Also got my BDS 2" Lift Kit and a set of nerf Bars from Daystar/Four Real Steel (not sure If I like them or not)



My current axles are 3.07's and were terrible with the 29's I have on there and I would like to go to 32's or 33's. So I picked up a set of axles from a 94 with 3.73's (at some point in the future I will upgrade to a 8.8 for the rear just not now) Tore them apart and sandblasted and painted (Ft is not done yet)
Before:


After:


Only issue I have right now is I can not get the lower Shock mount to line up, it is hitting the axle?


Any ideas? Thanks Jim
 
#12 ·
I had the same issue when fitting my aftermarket shocks to my D35. Honestly, in the end I cut off the factory shock mounts and put new ones in, clocked up quite a ways as I didnt' want them dragging in the mud anyway. The tabs I cut out with torches and ground semi-smooth, as the 35 isn't staying anyway. For the 8.8 I plan to install i'll grab tabs (they're $7 a pair, much easier).
 
#14 ·
Ok I think I figured it out, Had to cycle the suspension a couple of times and it seems to fit OK now. This is a frame up build so there is really no weight on it yet so I think that may have been it? Time will tell.

I should have the Front Axle back from the shop with in a week that will get this thing down on all fours, then I can start the tear down on the daily driver and begin the transplant!
 
#17 ·
Have you got the tub on yet? I REALLY want to see the daystar sliders.

Are they mounted well enough to take the weight of the vehicle? They are big time on same right now ($175/pair)

I want frame mounted sliders. Every tub mounted slider/rocker guard I've seen removed is rusty underneath leaving holes in the tub. Living on the coast rust is a concern.
 
#18 ·
Sorry, no tub on yet not even close at this point. The Daystar bars are mounted by drilling and taping four holes in the frame front and rear. They only go into the outside of the frame, I were to do any extreme off roading I would have probably drill through the frame and welded in reinforcement tubes to bolt all of the way through or just welded them on not sure if that would be better or not? I like the look of the frame mounted sliders better, these are strong I just don't know how strong till I get some more weight on it, and at the rat eI am going that won't be until April if I am lucky...:(
 
#20 ·
Well my current frame that is still my DD has rot above the skid plate, my DD also needed new suspension and gear upgrade, so I figured I would just start with all new (used) parts. The "new" frame I picked up was very solid other than some light to moderate surface rust. The Tub is also still on my DD and has a few minor areas of rust, rear floor under roll bar, windshield frame and behind the flares. As soon as the winter weather breaks the DD will come off the road and get stripped, fixed, upgraded were required and put back together.
 
#21 ·
OK well it's about time I got back to this post, it's been a while.
Chassis has had all of the fuel / brake lines run all front steering all hooked up

At the tank




Wow it was fun trying to figure out how these all went back in correctly and I am still not sure I have it 100%, but its all there.

So I officially took the daily driver off the road yesterday and started the tear down. it was to dark last night to get good pictures so I will post some tonight.
 
#23 ·
Hi Nija, Yes I do. Drivers side between the roll bar and the seat belt mount, that's on the list to be repaired.
I'll have some good pics later this evening I hope.
 
#24 ·
More Progress...

Well Late last week I started gutting the Daily Driver Hare is were I am at as of Sunday; Hard top off, Roll Bar out, Interior out (except for the drivers seat and steering wheel so I can still move it around), Fenders and Hood off.
Currently waiting on a friends Engine hoist before I can go much further. So here are a few pics:


Dash is out...


Tailgate and roll bar Out...


Hood and Fenders Off...


Some rust in the front drivers side floor area


The worst is here under the roll bar drivers side.
Still debating on how to tackle this...I know I am going to cut it all out but not sure if I just want to weld in some scrap sheet metal or by the floor pan and piece in what I need, any suggestions? I do plan on using http://www.monstaliner.com/ in the interior when finished but I still want it done right.

Now for a question...

I am a little stumped on how to remove the upper air-box assembly? I know how the lower one comes out (had to do the heater core) but aside from the screws in the cowl (under the grill) does anything else hold this in?
Thanks, Jim
 
#25 ·
If your gonna keep your D-35 for a while, I would only run 31X10.50's. They will be easier on it and thier cheaper. Actually, I went back to 31's because of price and the 31's take me where ever I want to go. I mostly just trail ride in the mountains of W,Va a few times a year, about once a month or so in the summer. In the winter my 87 sits in the garage out of the Ohio salt, or I play in the snow around our farm. 87's are antique this year, gotta keep them nice.
 
#26 ·
Yeah Wendell, I do have plans in the future for an 8.8, but I also don't do any Hard Core off-roading and only put about 5k a year on the Jeep, so it shouldn't be a issue for a year or so..fingers crossed
 
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