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-   -   My Ultimate D30 Build, Truss,vac-disco delete, C gusset, etc. (

CoverinEarth 04-11-2010 08:47 PM

My Ultimate D30 Build, Truss,vac-disco delete, C gusset, etc.
So i've recently noticed a bent C on the drivers side of my current HP D30 under my YJ. Since the axle is already rather well built in the internal section, I really dont see the point in spending money on it that could be used elsewhere.

So the decision was made to build the ultimate D30 housing and swap my internals over to it.

I found a 91 XJ HP D30 local, complete for rather cheap. ($75)

The plan was at first just to truss and do inner C gussets and then weld my SOA perches on and go.

Then we started tearing into it and since i already run 1 piece chromoly shafts, the vaccuum disconnect is pointless. So the XJ housing also has the UCA mount cast into the vac-disco piece.

After searching the boards and finding Joe Dillards re-sleeve I decided to integrate that into my Ultimate D30 build.

The axle was dropped off friday (4-9-10)

Immediatly we tore into it getting all the unusable stuff chopped off. (Read, everything!)

Dualing grinders:

The result of a stubborn bracket:

That was the end of day 1. Today Prosonic (Nick) from came over to help me finish getting it all torn down. Made lots of progress today.

Nick saying hello:

Yeah, we got carried away holding it on the stands:

This is the way the service manuals tell you to take off the pinion nut right?


Evil has taken over:

CoverinEarth 04-11-2010 08:53 PM

We continued our destruction (Disassembly)

Tubes clean:

No turning back now:

O, my.

Bye bye disco:


Mock up for the C gussets:

Tomorrow i'll be picking up some 3" OD, 2 1/2" ID DOM tubing to sleeve the long side tube. Will also be sleeving the shortside. Then welding on the C gussets, as well as a set of BallisticFab Perches.

Then I can begin making the Truss to complete the beef of this Dana30. I know i've left out lots of technical details, but a full write-up can be done if one is wanted.


ritjobbie 04-11-2010 09:47 PM

Right on!

Ten friggin' characters!

Douglas S. 04-11-2010 11:00 PM

Cool build, you should check out Joe Dillard's disco elimination thread

ritjobbie 04-12-2010 04:59 AM


Originally Posted by Douglas S. (Post 9265995)
Cool build, you should check out Joe Dillard's disco elimination thread

"After searching the boards and finding Joe Dillards re-sleeve I decided to integrate that into my Ultimate D30 build."

He's on it. How could anyone ever forget that epic thread?

Prosonic 04-12-2010 11:43 AM

I have to say I'm still very surprised at how smoothly things went yesterday.

Well, aside from lighting my shirt on fire that is.

Here's to the biggest, heaviest, boat anchor of a Dana 30 that will most likely ever be built. :cheers2:

Joe Dillard 04-12-2010 03:52 PM

:cool: So far - so good, it seems. :highfive:

BTW: I have not been in CA/home since Saturday. I just got back a few minutes ago. Anyway, I got your other PM's. Yep, you are correct & I was wrong concerning the 26" length. It was from memory that I gave it. I just remeasured & my DOM sleeve for the passenger side is ~21" long.

As far as other tips go - if you have the coin, I'd replace the balljoints while you're at it. I'm not sure if I mentioned that already or not. I respond to lots of PM's & I'm getting old. :hahaha:

I see you already have been preheating things ;) I'd use preheat when you weld the gussets & truss onto the housing & inner C's. You probably already were thinking that, but I thought I'd mention it.

I used Tempilstick, which is a temperature indicator heat stick when I preheated the housing. Pretty good stuff & easy to use too.

Tempilstick, Thermomelt - Temperature Indicator, Heat Stick

CoverinEarth 04-12-2010 04:14 PM

Definatly planning on new balljoints. Those ones took quite a bit of "pre-heat" just to get those ball joint nuts loose. Also will be getting new brakes and wheel bearings.

Still trying to figure out what kind of seal to useon the long side with the one-piece shaft. I dont want to have to rely on my Alloy tube seals to do all the work.

Also couldn't find any 3" DOM local. So now im trying to out-source some. Speedymetals carries it, but they want around $60 for 3ft.



Joe Dillard 04-12-2010 04:37 PM

Yea, 3" x .250" wall DOM is not always easy to get in certain areas. Luckily, San Diego has LOTS of custom fabrication/axle builder shops & they usually have it. HREW would do the trick, but I know you'd like to go the extra mile & use DOM if you can get it.

The thing about doing it in HREW would be to grind the internal weld out so that the original tube fits inside snug without being too snug.

IIRC, my local metal supply shop sold me a 3' section of DOM for ~$25-30. There are LOTS of metal supply shops here in SD to shop at, which makes things very competative for them. Sometimes the exact size tubing I'm looking for is available in their scrap bin. :)

Paraleyes 05-10-2010 01:39 AM

What happened to this?

Area.3.Fiftyone 05-10-2010 08:10 AM

Why didn't you just get an XJ housing without the disconnect?

It would have saved you a lot of work on the passenger side.

I have one here that I'm doing as well with a TNT truss and it's a whole lot easier without all that cast junk in your way.

CoverinEarth 05-10-2010 08:41 AM

Because money wise, i got this for pretty much free and it was delivered to my work. Couldn't beat the deal.

This will be starting back up tomorrow! HAHHAA.

My BallisticFab Truss and Perches are here, the tubing is cut and ready to begin welding and all the pieces for the C Gussets are cut. Jus tgotta get the tube sleeves welded on and perches welded on before I can do the Gussets.

I'll also be dropping down to Stock (Basdtard Packs) Springs SOA, and doing tube shock hoop swith 14" Travel Bilsteins. Basically I'll have the new springs bolted to the new axle and just roll it all in at one time.


Area.3.Fiftyone 05-11-2010 06:55 PM

IMO: Just because something is free doesn't always make it the best (or even a good) choice.

If you are truly building "The Ultimate D30" ditch the disco housing and get a later model XJ housing.

There is so much more work involved in sleeving that housing, and it won't be as strong IMO no matter how you sleeve it.

XJ housings are a dime a dozen around here.

It's your rig and you gotta do what you gotta do, but still.

CoverinEarth 05-11-2010 07:18 PM

I don't understand how it won't be as strong. Im sorry but being sleeved with 1/4" wall DOM and a truss over it will make it 100times stronger then a plain jane XJ non-disco housing.

And if these non-disco xj hp30 housings are such a dime a dozen, why don't you bring me a free one and rop it off, then i'll use it.

I make due with what i get and honestly im tired of your "opinions" because you know what they say about opinions.

This is a build thread, not a pissing match, dont let the door hit you where the lord split you.

Paraleyes 05-11-2010 10:50 PM

X2! I don't see what the point is in going out of your way to down this project like that. I think it rocks. I was looking at those gussets you have planned. Are those going to clear your spring plates?

I didn't sleeve mine, but I did box in the LCA mounts and the plate the front of the passenger's side UCA mount and put in a make shift truss from that across since I had a piece of scrap that worked.

Here's my HP30 out of my wrecked 96 XJ:

The time now is 04:54 PM.

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