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Unread 07-06-2013, 08:49 PM   #31
jason280
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
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Quote:
And ummm, i dont know if its the picture or not and i hate to be a nazi about it but i would reconsider those welds on those perches
I noticed that as well, looks like a lot of splatter with no penetration. I hope you feel comfortable with the additional passes, but this is certainly one place you don't want a weld failure!

Good job on the puller, a nice bit of ingenuity you used there. I'm jealous of the rear locker, I'd like to add a selectable to the 8.8 to run with the Spartan I picked up for my D30. As far as the plug welds go, every 8.8 I've done had the same plug welds. The first one I converted I simply welded the pumpkin to the tubes with solid .045 MIG wire on a Lincoln Power MIG 255, and never noticed any cracking. However, the one I am doing now, I will be using a nickle rod out of my DC stick machine and will be doing pre/post heat. The thing to remember, you don't need a full circumference of weld bead to keep the tubes from spinning, especially using a 4.3L V6. You can get by with a few short beads, which should control some of the heat, and will be more than enough to hold.

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Unread 07-07-2013, 02:06 AM   #32
legato
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Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
If I were an ARB in a Dana 35, I would kill myself too.
i think i found my signature.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 06:30 AM   #33
stu1021
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I got the axle under the Jeep yesterday. I just need to get a u-joint to adapt the drive shaft to the flange on the 8.8 and a couple quarts of oil. Should be good to go.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 08:50 AM   #34
lutzke21
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If you are still looking for one... I got mine from Denny's Driveshafts...

Part number F1310L
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Unread 07-14-2013, 11:50 AM   #35
stu1021
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Originally Posted by lutzke21 View Post
If you are still looking for one... I got mine from Denny's Driveshafts...

Part number F1310L
Thank you. I have seen a couple of places online - was hoping to score one locally but I don't see where local parts stores are stocking them.

I may just pick up a different flange that accepts the 1310 joint so I don't have a problem replacing u-joints in the future.
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Unread 07-14-2013, 06:37 PM   #36
pasinbuy
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I was just sitting on my chair and decided to come back to the Forum to talk a bit to you. I am in no way being critical and would be remiss if I just remained silent. Your welds are not solid as a couple others tried to tell you. You do not have good penetration.

Take a heavy hammer and strike your parts a few solid blows you will see your parts break away from your welds. This is how I was taught to check welds. I am in no way a good welder but I do know not good welds when I see it. Grind away your welds and take your rear end to a welding shop, they should weld it for no more than $45.00. You did the hard part tacking it in.

If I am wrong and your welds hold I will feel comfortable knowing that your rig is safe. Truthfully I do not see one penetration weld from what I see in the pictures, you will have problems. A couple of penetration points that you saw as you stated does not make a good solid weld.

I in no way mean to be harsh. I am only thinking about you and your safety. I have seen rear ends fly out and it is not pretty. The torque stops there.

Look at this build near the bottom of the page. That is what your welds should look like. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/e...95/index4.html

This will not get you home: http://www.jeepforum.com/gallery/dat...629_142608.jpg
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