My heater blower puts out more air when not running, here's why - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > YJ Wrangler Technical Forum > My heater blower puts out more air when not running, here's why

Engo winches available at www.rockridge4wd.com! Free shippRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

Reply
Unread 11-26-2010, 12:38 PM   #76
yj98joe
Registered User
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: clinton twp mi
Posts: 345
read all of this and more. but here is my question. What closes the pas.side vent door? when I move the lever from vent back to heat/defrost it just lays there, open..... mocking me.
It moves easy enough. But I have to reach in there and hook the arm with my finger and close it. Idont think that that is how the factory made it.
any help is appreciated.

yj98joe is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-27-2010, 06:28 AM   #77
Shenandoah
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 286
It's cable actuated. Either the bracket attaching the cable to the vent is broken or the cable has come off the heater control.
__________________
Turn a wrench, save a tree
Shenandoah is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2010, 06:33 PM   #78
jeepguy85
Bringing down the BFH
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kingsport, Tennessee
Posts: 1,076
Hey guys, hoping someone can tell me if this is feasible or not. My Jeep has been cold and I found this thread. Anyway, I found the vacuum source on the back of the manifold near the firewall on my engine. after tracing the vacuum hoses, I found mine is running under the Jeep. The vacuum motor switch on the heater control was also hanging. I have it hooked up and adjusted(only the green vacuum hose is connected), but I need to pick up a check valve, some vacuum hose, and fittings to fit it this weekend. I am thinking about using the ported vacuum on my CTO valve to apply the vacuum since the only thing hooked up on the CTO is the large ported vacuum and EGR. My question, will this provide enough vacuum to actuate the air door or not? Or should I use the manifold vacuum and T into it? I think the manifold vacuum may have been used to run the 4WD vacuum on the front axle, not totally sure. The pic below with has the port I am thinking about hooking up circled in red. Thanks in advance!

__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exparrot View Post
"When Chuck Norris drives, Chuck Norris controls the radio..."
Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
Mean Max created Chuck Norris with some spare parts, two trac bars and some differential fluid.
jeepguy85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2010, 07:16 PM   #79
Reme
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Elizabethville PA
Posts: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrox73 View Post
Here's the "YJ Heater Guide" for everything you wanted to know about the heater operations... enjoy

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



When your controls are set to off

Your blower motor should not be energized, both vent doors inside your hood intake should be closed
and your vent door inside the cab on your passenger side should be closed



Driver Side-Closed



Passenger Side-Closed



Inside Vent-Closed
Wish mine did this. The only way to get my blower motor to turn off is to move the switch to vent.
Reme is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-09-2010, 07:21 PM   #80
jeepguy85
Bringing down the BFH
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kingsport, Tennessee
Posts: 1,076
Hey guys, hoping someone can tell me if this is feasible or not. My Jeep has been cold and I found this thread. Anyway, I found the vacuum source on the back of the manifold near the firewall on my engine. after tracing the vacuum hoses, I found mine is running under the Jeep. The vacuum motor switch on the heater control was also hanging. I have it hooked up and adjusted(only the green vacuum hose is connected), but I need to pick up a check valve, some vacuum hose, and fittings to fit it this weekend. I am thinking about using the ported vacuum on my CTO valve to apply the vacuum since the only thing hooked up on the CTO is the large ported vacuum and EGR. My question, will this provide enough vacuum to actuate the air door or not? Or should I use the manifold vacuum and T into it? I think the manifold vacuum may have been used to run the 4WD vacuum on the front axle, not totally sure. The pic below with has the port I am thinking about hooking up circled in red. Thanks in advance!

__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exparrot View Post
"When Chuck Norris drives, Chuck Norris controls the radio..."
Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
Mean Max created Chuck Norris with some spare parts, two trac bars and some differential fluid.
jeepguy85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2010, 06:25 AM   #81
jeepguy85
Bringing down the BFH
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kingsport, Tennessee
Posts: 1,076
bump... can anyone help with this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy85 View Post
Hey guys, hoping someone can tell me if this is feasible or not. My Jeep has been cold and I found this thread. Anyway, I found the vacuum source on the back of the manifold near the firewall on my engine. after tracing the vacuum hoses, I found mine is running under the Jeep. The vacuum motor switch on the heater control was also hanging. I have it hooked up and adjusted(only the green vacuum hose is connected), but I need to pick up a check valve, some vacuum hose, and fittings to fit it this weekend. I am thinking about using the ported vacuum on my CTO valve to apply the vacuum since the only thing hooked up on the CTO is the large ported vacuum and EGR. My question, will this provide enough vacuum to actuate the air door or not? Or should I use the manifold vacuum and T into it? I think the manifold vacuum may have been used to run the 4WD vacuum on the front axle, not totally sure. The pic below with has the port I am thinking about hooking up circled in red. Thanks in advance!

__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exparrot View Post
"When Chuck Norris drives, Chuck Norris controls the radio..."
Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
Mean Max created Chuck Norris with some spare parts, two trac bars and some differential fluid.
jeepguy85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2010, 08:36 AM   #82
Que89YJ
Web Wheeler
1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 15,002
Yes ported vacuum will work. It doesnt take too much vacuum for the control.
Que89YJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2010, 03:26 PM   #83
bob082484
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 486
Now Ive read through this thread numerous times. My problem is that the drivers side vent underneath the dash wont close all the way. It stays open about a half an inch. What controls this vent? Is it mechanical or vac operated?
bob082484 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2010, 07:13 PM   #84
jeepguy85
Bringing down the BFH
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kingsport, Tennessee
Posts: 1,076
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy85 View Post
Hey guys, hoping someone can tell me if this is feasible or not. My Jeep has been cold and I found this thread. Anyway, I found the vacuum source on the back of the manifold near the firewall on my engine. after tracing the vacuum hoses, I found mine is running under the Jeep. The vacuum motor switch on the heater control was also hanging. I have it hooked up and adjusted(only the green vacuum hose is connected), but I need to pick up a check valve, some vacuum hose, and fittings to fit it this weekend. I am thinking about using the ported vacuum on my CTO valve to apply the vacuum since the only thing hooked up on the CTO is the large ported vacuum and EGR. My question, will this provide enough vacuum to actuate the air door or not? Or should I use the manifold vacuum and T into it? I think the manifold vacuum may have been used to run the 4WD vacuum on the front axle, not totally sure. The pic below with has the port I am thinking about hooking up circled in red. Thanks in advance!

OK, I did this tonight and it is warmer, but I think it can be warmer than it is. I felt both heater hoses when I got home and they were both hot and had pressure on them. Anyone think flushing the heater core is even worth doing? I drove it about 20 minutes and it got warmer than usual.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exparrot View Post
"When Chuck Norris drives, Chuck Norris controls the radio..."
Quote:
Originally Posted by HurricaneRZA View Post
Mean Max created Chuck Norris with some spare parts, two trac bars and some differential fluid.
jeepguy85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-03-2011, 05:35 PM   #85
bword
Registered User
1995  
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Derby, Ct
Posts: 350
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax79 View Post

I found this piece dangling behind the dash, it must of fell off the climate control. The heat in my jeep sucks, the defrost is not bad but besides the windshield im freezing my *** off when im driving it. I manually zip tied it the vacum switch closed to see what would happen. I noticed that a door of some sorts opens in the heater box well i could hear it at least. The heat from the floor was actually semi hot. However when I would accelerate I noticed that my defrost would start blowing and when I was at idle it would not blow from the defrost only the floor This is not normal right??
__________________
Selling a Totaled XJ in Ct..PM me for details
bword is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-10-2011, 06:18 PM   #86
IndyCorp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Glen Mills
Posts: 1
Problem solved for some of you.

Here ius the problem. It's too cold out to be pulling in 10 degree air running it over a 180 degree heater core and expect to get hot air. It's a bad design.

Here is the solution. Take off the vacuum manifold from behind your temp and fan controls under the dash drivers side. Take the the black hose out of the manifold and plug it into the opposite side of where the green vacuum line goes. You are basically making the black and green lines loop together. This will keep the trap doors closed in the cowl that allows the fresh cold air in. Now your system will have no air to blow, so do this next. On the passenger side floor...disconnect the cable to the vent on the passenger side. Manually open that door and leave it open. Mine has a factory spring on it which keeps it open. Make sure yours does as well. With this door open your blower motor will have an air source. I did it today and almost wanted to take my shirt off in this 12 degree weather lol...btw i'm a guy so don't get all excited lol. In the spring when it warms up..reconnect the vacuum lines and cable on the passenger floor, and it's business as usual till next winter.
IndyCorp is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-11-2011, 06:11 AM   #87
57plymouth
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Blythewood, SC
Posts: 332
Just throwing this out there...

I had trouble with my CAD on my front axle. I found that the ports on the vacuum motor were rusty. I sanded the rust off, and sealed the connector in place with some RTV to cure the vacuum leak. That made the CAD work, and it also made the flapper doors work better. Now I have plenty of heat, working 4WD, and the idle improved from the cured vacuum leak.

Moral of the story, check to see if you have a vacuum leak somewhere causing the signal to your flapper doors to be weak.
__________________
Virtus Junxit Mors Non Separabit
57plymouth is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-11-2011, 08:25 AM   #88
E5E
Registered User
1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyCorp View Post
Here ius the problem. It's too cold out to be pulling in 10 degree air running it over a 180 degree heater core and expect to get hot air. It's a bad design.

Here is the solution. Take off the vacuum manifold from behind your temp and fan controls under the dash drivers side. Take the the black hose out of the manifold and plug it into the opposite side of where the green vacuum line goes. You are basically making the black and green lines loop together. This will keep the trap doors closed in the cowl that allows the fresh cold air in. Now your system will have no air to blow, so do this next. On the passenger side floor...disconnect the cable to the vent on the passenger side. Manually open that door and leave it open. Mine has a factory spring on it which keeps it open. Make sure yours does as well. With this door open your blower motor will have an air source. I did it today and almost wanted to take my shirt off in this 12 degree weather lol...btw i'm a guy so don't get all excited lol. In the spring when it warms up..reconnect the vacuum lines and cable on the passenger floor, and it's business as usual till next winter.
x2

This is basically providing a recirculation setting for your heat. I didn't re-work the controls, but instead pulled the cowl cover off and wedged a dowel rod in to keep the flaps shut. When I do my CJ dash swap I plan to modify the heater settings and get rid of the rod.
__________________
[COLOR="Black"][CENTER][SIZE="4"][FONT="Showcard Gothic"][COLOR="Black"][URL="http://groups.jeepforum.com/Built_Not_Bought"][COLOR="Black"]Built Not Bought #380[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]
E5E is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-12-2011, 04:40 PM   #89
bob082484
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Mars, PA
Posts: 486
x3
I just tried this but it didn't work too great at first. Here whenever I was into the gas the vents would open and let cold air in. So I taped up the bottom of the cowl vent and it works pretty good. I would recommend it.
bob082484 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-29-2011, 10:48 AM   #90
giggityjeeper
Registered User
1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 4,024
Ima add to this thread a bit more... I redid my heater controls and everything this weekend, this should be a sticky......



I started with broked heater controls in my jeep, one side was busted so only 2 screws could hold it in, and my little black vac hose like most was broke and my manifold vac was just blcoked off.... it still blew hot for winter, but I jsut wanted it complete and 'right' and wanted new controls as well with lights





The above 2 pics are what everything SHOULD hook up to... of note, not sure what year jeep this control came from, but mine is a 90, the green wires on the right side are white on mine.....

so... moving on.... ripping my **** out....





The 2 whites go to the right side controls, one in front and one in back.... the orange and black are the light buld wires, they twist into the right side of hte control unit...



the blue connection cips in UNDER, right below the little elcetric mocule, hard to see from above so turn it over you will see it.... the blue clips in and the round end has to wrap around and twist, you will see it if you ever do this, this one is annoying...



The black clips in on the right side of the controls on the top....



the white goes to the left side acroos from the black one... the round ends must attach to the post sticking up....



post center... the cables attach to these

NOW for that little stupid vacumm thingy... where does it go....



well it screws into the rear left side of the control unit..





where Im pointing, 2 screws, one end of it you can push in and out for the vac, this end goes toward that heater controls, slidding just under it into a litt cuddy hole made for it...

The green vac goes up under the glove box, connecting to a little vac motor I dont have pics of it, Im sure max can provide

the black goes out the firewall in a manifold vacuum....



I stole that pic from earlier in this thread.... but that is where it goes, reverse it and try it if you like as this thread says.... I put mine on normal like...

And then of course the plug on the left side....

worse part of the whole thing is getting the clips on the cables out WITHOUT breaking them.......... if you break I think you have to get a whole new cable as I dont see how to get one off and back on sooo... ya...

I broke the white one.... grrrrr... its not long so you cant pull it thru the dash....

anyhow... now I have gooder heat, lights in my heater and my controls dont flop around....

MAKE THIS A STICKY.........
__________________
Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
giggityjeeper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.