My heater blower puts out more air when not running, here's why - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 105 Old 01-05-2008, 07:04 PM
jeepthg
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ill tell you what i did......

i went outside yesterday after whining on this post and took a look at my trap door in the hood vent. it too was open when the truck was off and on when the truck fired up.

I followed the top of the exhaust manfold to the end nearest the firewall and found a vacuum hose there. it had a one way thingy in it that only restricted the vacuum from the exhaust.

I had plenty of vacuum stuff lying around and put in a different restricter so that it let air flow go to the firewall....

ill be dang on if it closed the door when i pulled the vacuum hose off. and when i flipped it around and reinstalled it. the door popped open once i started my jeep.

PLENTY of free flowing heat. had to take off my hooded sweatshirt when stopped at a light. i had too much heat.

No photos i have no garage and its cold outside.. just look on the firewall where the vent side is and go less than a foot down and you will see a vacuum hose going to your manifold "behind carb" try it out if it doesnt work you can always flip it right back

post results so others who are less willing to try will when it works


89 YJ 4.2L 33X12.5X15

upgrades since i bought it
4" lift : 33's :Rugged Ridge soft top : Dynomax exhaust : Rugged Ridge 7" flares : MC2100 :TFI : lights and dual tube front bumper: nutter bypass thanks to Richmond 88 YJ

more upgrades to come as the wife allows
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post #17 of 105 Old 01-05-2008, 07:10 PM
Richmond88yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepthg
ill tell you what i did......

i went outside yesterday after whining on this post and took a look at my trap door in the hood vent. it too was open when the truck was off and on when the truck fired up.

I followed the top of the exhaust manfold to the end nearest the firewall and found a vacuum hose there. it had a one way thingy in it that only restricted the vacuum from the exhaust.

I had plenty of vacuum stuff lying around and put in a different restricter so that it let air flow go to the firewall....

ill be dang on if it closed the door when i pulled the vacuum hose off. and when i flipped it around and reinstalled it. the door popped open once i started my jeep.

PLENTY of free flowing heat. had to take off my hooded sweatshirt when stopped at a light. i had too much heat.

No photos i have no garage and its cold outside.. just look on the firewall where the vent side is and go less than a foot down and you will see a vacuum hose going to your manifold "behind carb" try it out if it doesnt work you can always flip it right back

post results so others who are less willing to try will when it works
I did the same thing, but mines on tha intake manifold, not the exhaust manifold. it's got???

Firewall - vac hose - F/F rubber connection - Intake manifold

Are you saying flip the F/F rubber thing around?

- Ernie


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post #18 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 06:39 AM
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ya ya intake manifold. i was drinking HEAVY.. lol

if the F/F rubber thing is a plastic trap like thing with one side dirty tan and the other side is blue or puprple i dont remember the color exactly.. the thing if pulled off blow into it. one side will free flow air and the other side stops it completely. you want the itake sending air to the firewall. not stopping it

yup all i did was flip the F/F rubber thingy around.. but i used a different one cause the size vacuum tubing didnt fit just right

89 YJ 4.2L 33X12.5X15

upgrades since i bought it
4" lift : 33's :Rugged Ridge soft top : Dynomax exhaust : Rugged Ridge 7" flares : MC2100 :TFI : lights and dual tube front bumper: nutter bypass thanks to Richmond 88 YJ

more upgrades to come as the wife allows
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post #19 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 07:24 AM
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I also checked my connections after this thread. It's working correctly, but in the past my vacuum hose came loose under the dash. I can take a pict of this connection under the dash if someone would post it here for me.

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post #20 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 07:45 AM
Richmond88yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepthg
ya ya intake manifold. i was drinking HEAVY.. lol

if the F/F rubber thing is a plastic trap like thing with one side dirty tan and the other side is blue or puprple i dont remember the color exactly.. the thing if pulled off blow into it. one side will free flow air and the other side stops it completely. you want the itake sending air to the firewall. not stopping it

yup all i did was flip the F/F rubber thingy around.. but i used a different one cause the size vacuum tubing didnt fit just right

Cool. Thanks, great find! I'll do this in a bit and takes some pics of it, it's routing and the other end to complete the write up on our little mystery here. This has been a fun thread.

- Ernie


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post #21 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 10:03 AM
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OK, went out and experimented on mine.

In the cowl vent there are two flappers, one on pass, one on drivers side.

The drivers side one opens and closes via the /vent/heat/def setting. When off it's closed. The pass one seems stuck open, no matter what I do with vac or settings, it stays open. even bypassed the check valve and ran it without.

Also, had wifey feel for airflow by the vent as I manually closed the drivers side flap, she said the airflow stopped, makes sense since both flaps were closed.

I took out the check valve and even tried the strong port and man vac on the carb direct connected, made not difference.

The drivers side one definately seems to be cable controlled. The pass one vac controlled. Is that right?

So...(engine on or off made no difference in any setting)

Drivers side Flap
off=Closed
def/heat=Closed
vent=open

Pass side Flap
off=Open
def/vent=Open
vent=Open


A few questions..
1- Should both flaps open/close together? or are they independant?
2- How the hell do you get to the linkage/vac connections up there, I can't see squat.
3- What is the normal settings for these as I've outlined above, obviously something is not right on mine.

- Ernie


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Last edited by Richmond88yj; 01-06-2008 at 10:17 AM.
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post #22 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 10:43 AM
Shenandoah
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Ok, I'll try my first picture here. This is a pict of the vacuum attachments under the dash.




Thanks for the help Mr. B

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post #23 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 11:25 AM
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Hey no problem. I was wondering what that vacuum connection was for under there. Just a little advice on the pics. Go into your photobucket page and "edit" the pics to 640x480. That will help us old farts that can't see well and still 800x600 on our screens. By the way, I see you'll be hitting the big 55 in a couple of months.

.
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post #24 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 11:55 AM
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Thanks for the pic. I've located mine, but I'm still a bit fuzzy by the term "flip around". Will the dark be in the middle and the green be on the end, or will the green stay in the middle and the dark will be on the opposite end. The opposite end currently being without.
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post #25 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 12:24 PM
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Figured mine out... I'll edit with more detail in a bit..


Pass flap is vac actuated, Drivers is cable actuated.

My prob was the switch in the pic above has a plunger on the side of it. Int he off position, the lever bracket pushes this plunger in, releasing vac from the pass flap and closing it. When you move lever to Def, it releases the plunger and applies vac to the pass flap opening it.

That switch has a brutal amount of adjustment room, all held on with two little plasic nuts with 2 screws. It's easy to see how this could come out of adjustment simply with age, and hosing up the flap, either making the plunger stic in, closing the flap, or not contacting it enough to effectively keep pass flap open at all times, like mine was.

- Ernie


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post #26 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 12:39 PM
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you guys are making jeep history by documenting this vacuum switch!
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post #27 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 03:34 PM
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OK, got it working, here;s how it's supposed to be...


Manifold vac with gate valve connected.. (Suck from manifold pulling on black tube to heater settings switch)

Off...
pass side closed, driver side closed

Def/Heat...
Pass side open, driv side closed

Vent...
Pass side closed, Driv side open

The vac switch assy needs to be tuned just right to activate hwne you hit def/heat from the off pos. The plunger on the switch has a good 1" of leaway on your adjustment. Adjust it so it's plunger-out at the point your switch hits Def. Screw all the dash parts back up.

Make sure you keep the check valve in there as the cab could get gas fumes in it if you don't

Hopefully better heat tomorrow.

- Ernie


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post #28 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 03:38 PM
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guess who's not freezing anymore?...lol mine was hooked wrong also! wonder if it was hooked wrong from the factory?
thanks guys! time for a sticky vote!
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post #29 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 04:30 PM
ctm
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I'm still not clear on which of the three ports the manifold vac plugs into. On Shenandoah's pic it is plugged into the the port 'on the right'. does it matter? I know it's not the center one, that goes to the air door?
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post #30 of 105 Old 01-06-2008, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctm
I'm still not clear on which of the three ports the manifold vac plugs into. On Shenandoah's pic it is plugged into the the port 'on the right'. does it matter? I know it's not the center one, that goes to the air door?
When mine was plugged into the other port, it didn't work correctly. It was trial and error and then looking at a buddies set up to confirm it was correctly installed. The center connection was also disconnected at some point in my trials (until my buddy came by). I put silicone caulk on the green hose to keep it connected.

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