I use it under my trail cover , to keep water from pooling on top. PVC from Lowes. shown here under my safari. The pieces are just pushed together, I didnt bother to glue it. And I can drive with it on under the safari.
Here it is (see pictures, since Im not exactly sure what they call these parts, and I got them all in the PVC plumbing dept at Lowes)
two 2 tee pipe fittings (although a friend pointed out one four way would work instead). Cut the main tube in half (I used a trim saw with a fast cutting wood blade and it easily cut it with no chipping)
two 2x 1/2 reducer fittings (these allow a 1/2 pipe to be fit into a 2 pipe hole )
1/2x 10 PVC pipe. The thin cheap stuff, ten feet cost me $1.07 I cut mine to 46 and I think it may be a bit long. Since its not glued, it can easily be shortened. Heres a pic showing how thin the wall is.
Then, you just push it all together, and I straightened the two ends by laying it on the floor. The fittings are made to fit a ID 2 pipe, so the openings are closer to 2.5 and fit well around the rollbar padding. I sanded the cut edge to keep it from cutting the padding.
I did a PVC prop, and the cost was about $15 because I "splurged" to purchase a piece of self adhering pipe wrap and a can or black PVC spray paint. The paint so far has not worn or chipped, and the brace has not marred or cut into the pads of my roll cage either.
One of the advantages of a PVC prop is that the force fitting makes it easy to take out when the top is off, the $40 version looks like it bolts in. A disadvantage I think I see is that if you rolled your Jeep with it on you could have a projectile and a shapr one at that in the cockpit with you. Then again if you do roll the truck you probably have more problems then that anyway!
Here is my write up that is someplace in the YJ Forum:
Sitting in my Jeep, even having replaced the spreader bars in the back, when driving over 40mph was like sitting inside a large kettle drun. The only "fix" I had till now was to turn up the stereo. Not only is it bad for the speakers but also the hearing. I saw a DIY Prop for the top and decided to give it a try with a few improvements.
1 x 2 inch (Inner diameter) PVC cross
2 x 2 inch to 1/2 inch adapter (Solvant weld) or
----2 x 2 inch to 3/4 inch adapter (Can be threaded)
----2 x 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch adapter (Solvant weld on the 1/2 inch side)
1 x 1/2 inch by 5 foot tubing.
White Lithium Grease
You can either force fit all the parts or solvant weld them, your choice, but I would advise that you don't weld the bar to the side supports. This brings me to the
1 x Can (Small) purple PVC primer
1 x Can (Small) PVC
1 x Can Black or other color PVC Paint
1 x tube of soft pipe insulation (3/4 inch inner diameter) I would recommend using the kind that has adhesive on the cut ends so you can stick it all together.
Something to cut all the PVC with
Metal measuring tape
Something to mark the PVC where you will make the cuts
Step one, cut the 2 inch PVC cross in half so that you end up with two "T" pieces. They will both sit on the padding of your roll bars.
Use some sand paper or a file to knock the edged and corners off the inner ended of the "T's" you made where they will contact your pads so they wont rip them.
Insert the adapters you need to get down to a 1/2 inch openning in the "T's" and if you choose prime and weld them in place.
Now is the time to paint the PVC if you planned to do so,
When it is all dry and solid apply some white lithium grease onto the ends of the pipe and insert it into one of the "T's" you made. Sit in the vehicle and place the “T” with the bar on the opposite side's roll bar forcing the tube against the top with one end held to the “T.” If it is too big cut it down until you have it so that it will fit into the “T.” The trick I used was to cut it down until I could fit it in one end, bow the tube and rest the other end against the opposite T to about the depth it was going to go in to and cut any excess.
After the dry fitting, when you are ready to install the Prop install it diagonally about 6 inches out of line from where it will ultimately go. Push it up against the top working it into place being careful not to let the “T’s” rip the roll bar covers. Work one side and then the other until it is parallel to both the windshield and the overhead support and midway to both.
With the Prop in place put on the pipe insulation, the open split down to the floor and seal it up by pulling out the plastic covering the adhesive. If there is any printing on the insulation twist it so the writing is against the soft top. The pipe insulation, while optional, is important because it helps to further disperse the load and deaden the vibrations of the top.
This is the outside view where you can see bump that the Prop creates.
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