MY 350 swap..... - Page 12 - JeepForum.com
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post #166 of 220 Old 05-25-2008, 06:09 AM Thread Starter
jeepin1995
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if it's the switch in the column, then all things that work only in the "run" position will be on all the time too right?


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post #167 of 220 Old 05-25-2008, 01:28 PM
Ryanpowell167
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Not exactly...The ignition switch itself could be stuck. Atleast i think the switch could still activate your starter with the key out...

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post #168 of 220 Old 05-25-2008, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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hmmmm, i put in a different starter today and it started fine then did it again. i'm just gonna have to go back over my wiring and go from there.

other than that, and adjusting the carb and timing......
THIS SWAP IS DONE!!!!!

pics to come tomorrow or tues.!

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post #169 of 220 Old 06-01-2008, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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well..... i got it "done" today..... then blew a power steering hose..... then found out the seal between the trans and transfer case is leaking.....fix those and i shall be done!!

oh yea, i did get to drive it a little before the hose blew...... that's a lot of power for a YJ, but worth it!

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post #170 of 220 Old 12-13-2008, 04:25 AM
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Welll lets see those Finished Pictures of that Bad Bow Tie in there !! Ide love to do that to mine & dump my 4 cyl. Over all how much do you think you have into it just rough estimate, minus the Motor & trans. I can get a a real nice 350 right now & Trans for a good price , IM just wondering how much for all the other stuff that had to be changed.
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post #171 of 220 Old 12-13-2008, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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i won't be home til tomorrow, i'll get some pics then..... as for money in it....with the motor and t-case being free, trans cost $75.....i probably have $1000 - $1200 in it.....

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post #172 of 220 Old 04-11-2009, 10:36 AM
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Just curious what exhaust size you ended up going with? Getting my Jeep back next week and have to get a whole new exhaust set up on it. I have heard several suggestions but all from people that do not have a Jeep with a 350 in it.
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post #173 of 220 Old 04-11-2009, 08:54 PM
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IIRC manifolds will limit you to 2 or 2.5" exhaust.

Headers you can go larger, but if it is mostly stock you will not see any huge gains in HP, but you can start to lose some torque going 3" or so. True duals with manifolds free's it up plenty.

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post #174 of 220 Old 04-11-2009, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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shorty headers into 2.5" exhaust pipes, into a single inlet/outlet 3" pipe flowmaster..... 3" out the back.

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post #175 of 220 Old 04-13-2009, 10:13 AM
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great thread!!! i am looking to do this as well, any suggestions on a donor vehicle???

thnks

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post #176 of 220 Old 04-13-2009, 11:10 AM
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Go with newer stuff, leave the TBI's in the junkyard. The Gen III engines are more powerful, more efficient, lighter, easier to work on, ect ect... The aftermarket is strong and they are getting cheaper in the yards.

I got a complete pull-out 6.0 from an 01 Denali fan to flexplate with all accessories and electronics last week for $1100. It has 70,000 miles on it but that's nothing for a modern engine that was well maintained. I pulled the oil pan and the valve covers and aside from some normal varnishing everything looks brand new inside.
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post #177 of 220 Old 04-23-2009, 05:56 PM
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You said the saddle motor mount from Advanced adapters aloud you to use your stock drive shafts? Im going to be using the same tranny and engine and tcase, if that is true woohoo.

Oh and you did not need to cut your front drive shaft either? Oh and one more question what did u do to mount your tranny?
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post #178 of 220 Old 04-24-2009, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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yea..... when all was said and done, my driveshafts worked as they were before the swap...... if you use the exact same setup, i don't see why yours wouldn't..... but every rig is different..... to mount my trans, i got a chevy mount then drilled new holes in my trans skidplate.

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post #179 of 220 Old 04-24-2009, 07:13 PM
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Got another question for ya, I will be getting my Jeep back from the 350 swap and SOA. What did you do about your Tach? I would like to try and keep the factory one if possible. Jeeps make it to easy to just reach in and grab stuff. Would probably ruin my day to pay for a good Autometer and someone think they need it more than me. LOL
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post #180 of 220 Old 04-24-2009, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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mine doesn't work right now..... i read somewhere that you can use a potentiometer from somewhere like radio shack to adjust the voltage until the tach reads correct.

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