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MY 350 swap.....

154K views 219 replies 44 participants last post by  94jeepman 
#1 ·
it's my turn..... this will serve as my official 350 swap thread. i'll use it to post updates, ask and answer questions. the end result is going to be a 350/700R4/231 combo.....first pics!!
Before.....

during pulling of 4 cyl.....

two hours later she's out!!

look at all that room!

perfect place for a fat guy to stand.....

this is the bolt-in V8 saddle mount i got from advance adapters.....


thats all for today..... not much technical stuff..... i'll definitely make up for it soon!:cheers2:
 
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#6 ·
looking good pete let me know if you need any help. Want be able to do much but will help you any way I can.
later man
 
#7 ·
actually..... selling off my old trans and motor has pretty much paid for the big ticket items..... engine mount, fuel cell, exhaust headers and the shifter..... i think i only have $100 out of pocket (trans)
tomb raider..... i got a feeling you're gonna be my best friend thru this!
 
#8 ·
You going to run carb or injected? Is the donor from an injected vehicle? I just had a block handed to me for free, so with no injection parts I'm thinking propane, pretty cheap to build from scratch.
 
#9 ·
it's actually a 350 out of a emergency generator from the local power co..... it got struck by lightning and fried the generator (also free)..... motor runs good, only 500 hours and runs off of propane..... not really my cup of tea, i'm ditching that for a carb for now.....gotta start off easy.....:thumbsup:
 
#11 ·
Same exact swap I did quite a long time ago, good luck!

Don't skimp on the radiator, I bought a standard conversion radiator instead of going aluminum and have hated myself ever since for it.

I know you mention carb, if your buying a new one you can do a junkyard TBI for about the same price and have fuel injection, also worth it. I have a carb, and I love it most of the time though, but I have tinkered with carbs for a lot of years.

If your planning on buying an adapter to your t-case don't... Buy a 231C for $100 instead. You have to switch to a electric speedo (Autometers anyone) and you still come out ahead of the $500 adapter.

Keep an eye on the oil filter, if you don't have enough lift under full compression the driveshaft can make contact (also depends on your motor mounts), same with the exhaust depending on the headers you use. I kept the manifolds and got around this problem, though I have enough lift now, so if I ever need a new exhaust it will get headers.

I am sure you have already researched all that though. The upgrade is well worth it.
 
#12 ·
this is the bolt-in V8 saddle mount i got from advance adapters.....
What are the advantages or diadvantages of the AA motor mount cradle set-up over their weld-in motor mounts? I know the cradle set-up is about $80 more but was just wondering if one way is better then the other.

Goo luck with the swap. I hope to start mine this summer.

:cheers:

Todd
 
#13 ·
The bolt in mount forces you to put the motor in a certain spot, the weld in will allow you to place it where ever you want it.
 
#15 ·
OK my experience with the drop-in cradle is that it places the motor very low in the frame. I also had problems melting motor mounts because that cradle put them very close to my blockhugger headers. I eventually wound up going to the weld-on style mounts to aleviate the motor mount issue and also to raise the motor to provide more clearance for my steering ram.

If you are using rear dump shorty headers/manifolds or you have long tube headers, and also have the clearance below the motor, the drop-in style mount will work fine. Personally, I prefer the weld-in style because it gives you more options in final position of the motor.
 
#34 ·
#19 ·
I know this doesn't answer your question, but here are the AA ones for comparison. I really liked them.



 
#20 ·
to answer some questions.....
1 TON YJ:
i'm leaning towards these:
http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=26&plID=813&partID=9913

Jeepfreak81:
a friend is giving me a intake manifold and carb for free for now.....gonna run it for a while to see if i like it, if not, then i'll throw some dough towards some sort of fuel injection.

t-case..... gonna snag a 231C and mix and match parts with my 231J to make it work. that way i hope to still be able to keep the gear driven speedo sensor in the back of my 231J.....

not really worried about front driveshaft/oil filter clearance.....being SOA with 2" springs should help that.....

Tank29:
i researched several weld in style mounts, but wanted to try something a little easier for a change.....it can adjust forward or back 5/8" (not much, i know) but they said it's designed to set the motor in the most optimal spot. if it sits too far back, no problem, i'm stretching the rear of my YJ 9" when it all goes together so driveshaft angles aren't a worry.....

now i have a question..... those who have done the swap..... what did you do for power steering hoses????? do the stock YJ lines fit or do i have to make some custom ones???? i don't have a power steering pump as of yet, just wanna know what i'm up against.
thanks!
:cheers2:
 
#21 ·
Free is always good for the carb and intake stuff, when tuned properly they work well, so take some time with it :thumbsup: I ran points even when I first did my swap, because the whole dist, was new and on the shelf. (long gone now though.) My Edelbrock 600 has been very trusworthy, even without the offroad kit in it.

You will be able to mix and match the t-case parts to retain your speedo gear, I have done it -- however the narrower NP231J chain was rather short lived behind the V8 for me, the t-case only had about 60k or so on it IIRC when I did my swap, so it wasn't a mileage issue. I ended up going to all 231C guts and it has worked great.

For the power steering, I used one Chevy hose and one Jeep hose. I would have to look to see which is which though. The Chevy hoses came with my parts motor I bought for the accessories. That was a 305 from an 84 Caprice I was told when I bought it.
 
#23 ·
Couple things.

The MORE mounts are very nice. While I don't have them.....I wish I would have got them. I got the AA mounts, and while I have had no problems with them....the MORE ones just look beef. One thing about them.....I don't like the idea of a mount dictating where my engine goes. Granted, it's an inch here, inch there.....but I still like the idea of being able to do as I please with them. On a side note about the mounts.....which ever you choose, get the same style tranny mount. For example: The MORE mounts are poly bushing type. Make sure you fab up a tranny mount using the same. The advance adapters ones I got are rubber bushing style. They move more....and require a tranny mount that does the same. If you mix and match...well.....ask one ton....lol. I think he's got a pretty picture somewhere in his collection.


On to the manifolds. I have stock manifolds. They worked perfectly. No clearance issues with anything. With that said....I got OEM manifolds for an 89 fullsize blazer. I have no idea what other manifolds are the same, different...etc. I know mine work.


The hoses: I used both jeep hoses. Worked as they should, no issues.

Keep on it bud...you'll get there.

-Scott
 
#25 ·
I have a set of 88-98 GM truck shorty headers hanging on the wall collecting dust at my storage garage. They look almost exactly like those headers you posted. The driver's side has an O2 bung welded in it but you can put a ford spark plug in that to cap it. Make me an offer, I can get pictures if you want.

For the radiator, get a 22x19 universal aluminum radiator from any of your favorite racing parts places, Summit, Jeg's, Speedway, ect. You can get one for less than $200 and make your own brackets to bolt it to your grille. Slap a Taurus fan on it. I have less than $320 in my entire cooling system.

Mount the grille, radiator and fan before the engine, obviously.
 
#27 ·
hey peter have you thought about keeping the 'pane?

:)
 
#28 ·
Anyone used the MM from JC Whitney? They are weld in and for everything about 60 bucks. I'll look for a brand but they say that they are made for a Jeep to Chevy 350 conversion? MM's are on my shoping list and I wanted to make sure I get the right thing the first time.

2nd. How do you know exactly how high to mount up your radiator? Is there a certain height. If you had to choose to high or to low which would you go?

3rd. Stick with manafolds if you can. Headers are a PITA and they have to be the right ones or you will be running mufflers for rockers. Here is a Jeep my neighbor picked up a few mo. back. It has been a complete frame off but this is what it looked like when we took it off the trailer. Keep in mind stuff is hanging off of it but look how low the cherry bombs are.

Todd
Thanks!
Todd
 
#29 ·
Sorry.....Here is the pic I didn't know
how big it would be. Don't have time out the door
to work to resize.


He went the homemade route
for his weld ons and got the other
parts from AA. Ditched the headers
when it was time for the 350
 
#30 ·
I cut my grille to sink the radiator in against the back of the headlight buckets. Mount it as high or as low as wish. I'd go higher so it does not interfere with the axle or steering should you choose to run the ride height as low as you can.

You do NOT need to run fenderwell headers! Shorty/blockhuggers work fine. When I mocked my motor in my Jeep it had a set of 88-98 GM truck headers on it from when it was in my Blazer. They would have worked fine, but I went with the center outlet blockhuggers to get the y-pipe up high and out of harm's way.
 
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