Great write up Tyler! Nice job.
Max, as for the tracks and sway, we left em all on.
Also, the Cinderblock method works good for me. I know people will snark etc, but this is my 30th or so lift install in my garage. The cinderblock is just the right height for a 2.5 and 4" kit. I also use a bunch of jack stands at the same time. No one goes under a rig without all jackstands inplace. So yeah, it's a bit redneck, but it works. Also if anyone else can tell me how to lift the frame up 2 feet without a commercial lift, I'm all ears.
yea i kno about the cinder block.. we were just careful.
and thanks for the compliment. haha i was afraid i would be laughed out of here.
but idk about the impact wrench? i do my wrenching at my neighbors.
i wanna say it was a harbour freight one tho.
It's an electric Dewalt 4200 series. ($270 from Lowes). Outside of the 12 dollar grinder from Harbor freight, best tool I've bought for the Jeep.
The vent tube is right by where your rear brake line mounts on the axle. You have about 8" of play in yours, it'll be fine.
One thing Tyler didn't mention that's always a PIA, is the U-bolt alignment in the plate. It seems at least 2 U-bolts always are a bit to wide for the holes. You can squeeze and muscle them in but it's a pain. What we did, and it worked well, is to pre-fit all 8 U-bolts into their plate before crawling under the rig. If one was a bit to wide, we closed it up a bit using the vise making sure it would slide right in.
This makes it so much easier when all the holes line up.