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Muncie SM465/Dana300 install pics
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Muncie SM465/Dana300 install pics
This is how I made my Muncie Sm 465 and Dana 300 T-Case fit in my YJ. I did some cutting of the factory skid plate, built up a place for the tranny mount using some square tuding, cut the floor and made a new cover to clear the T-Case shifter and make accessable, cut and welded the T-Case shifter to make it go straight up and fit properly, and installed a one inch body lift to allow me to NOT use a drop kit for the skid plate. Works great!
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Sweet drive line. Are you planning on doing a twin stick on the Dana 300? I would highly recommend it. With all of the things that I have done on my jeep, I would have to say that the transfer case is one of my favs. Twin stick and 4 to 1 gears are fun, i don't care who you are haha.
Later Zach
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1993 YJ with a 4.0 & TF 999 & Np 231 (All to change soon!)
SOLD!!!87 Red YJ with 95 4.0 & NV 3550 & Dana 300 Flipped 3.5 BDS Lift |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Nice Job! - i only used my old ax-15 a 5/8" spacer for my 300 - wish i would have gotten pics of it, and x2 on the twin stick - i dont know how i ever wheeled without it - and hes right the 4:1 kit is an awesome addition as well, if you do go that way - may i recommend Supplee 4x4 - he was the cheapest in the country.
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"Negative....I am a meat popsicle" |
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#4 |
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Glenno,
Perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for !!! I have some pictures up of my build, if you want to take a look. http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o44/mhn1961/ Thanks again for the pics. This is a huge help !!!!! Mike |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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hey I have a few questions about your 300 set up. Is the case all stock or do you have the stronger output shaft installed? And did you have to use a clocking ring on the t-case to make the skid plate work? I have a wrangler with a t5 and a 300 and am looking to swap the t5 for an auto in the near future.
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#6 | |
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Registered User
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Nice Looking Machine Mike
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#7 |
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Registered User
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Great looking Project Mike
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Great Looking Project Continued
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Great Looking Project Continued
Awesome project Kudos to you.
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#10 | |
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Registered User
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Follow link and read; This is where I do my research.
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http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/trans_to_transfer_adapters.htm Read the Knowledge Base Very Informative. |
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#11 | |
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Registered User
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Supplee 4x4
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Thanks Glenno,
This has been an interesting project for me. Everything I've done, to this point, has been performance builds. This is my first 4WD and I've learned a ton. Of course, spent a lot more than I expected but, that's the nature of the beast. Should have it finished and on the road this spring (fingers crossed). One quick question, did you route your fuel lines from the tank to the engine in the stock location along teh frame rail or did you do something different to get them up out of the way. I'm running a true dual exhaust and am, a little concerned about the proximity of the exhaust pipe to the fuel and return lines. Just curious more than anything. Thanks again for the pictures, They were exactly what I was looking for. All the best. Mike |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Fuel Lines
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My fuel lines are in the stock position. I'm converting TPI Fuel Injection soon so I will be running new fuel lines all the way from the tank to the inline pump to the TPI unit. As for where they will eventually run I'm not sure. When I get there I will post the project. I'm glad I could help, any questions just ask. Thanks Glenno |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I've installed a Holley COmmander 950-700CFM FUel Injection (it was free) and am going to re-route the fuel lines through the center, underbody and bring them out on top of the bellhousing. Little extra work but beats hell out of boiling the fuel on the way to the throttle body.
By the way, great looking ride. How does your spring-over behave on the road ?? Assuming you drive it on the street. I guarantee I'll be in touch over the next month or so, until I get this thing on the street. Thanks again. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I run braided stainless lines to my fuel rail (tpi) and for a while both lines ran within 1/2" of the muffler. Never any problems with "boiling" the fuel. No need to make it more complicated than it has to be
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