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post #1 of 10 Old 04-05-2004, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
hittinbombs
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Multiple Questions

I have a few questions about my new jeep and I figured I should combine into one thread as not to overload the forum.

My first question is about the hex bolts holding on various hinges and such. I cant seem to get the right leverage or whatever I need to get some of these out and end up slipping out and stripping the bolt , my dad suggested getting an impact driver, is that the best choice to get those out?

Second is that I've tried looking for a way to get an 8 gauge wire from the engine bay to the cab but the only tips i can find involve drilling. Is there any other way? I was able to pull a rubber grommit out in one spot in my corsica to get the wires through and was hoping there would be something like that here too.

Third is for ideas on how to secure 6x9 boxes (wedge) to the wheel well (or anywhere else that works good) so they dont go flying all over when i take turns or better yet, so they dont get stolen!

Thanks in advance for any help!

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post #2 of 10 Old 04-05-2004, 09:39 PM
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Well, on the bolts, I assume you mean torx bolts. Welcome to the wonderful world of jeeps. They are a P.I.A. try to lube them up with some PB blaster.
The wire: I am assuming it's for an amp right? I drilled a hole in the firewall and used a rubber grommet. Looks REALLY clean.
For the wedges, I would get a pair of sound wedges. They mount between the fenderwells and the roll cage. They sound ALOT better than 6x9 boxes on the floor too. I think I paid $80 out of JC Whitney.

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post #3 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmybay
Second is that I've tried looking for a way to get an 8 gauge wire from the engine bay to the cab but the only tips i can find involve drilling. Is there any other way? I was able to pull a rubber grommit out in one spot in my corsica to get the wires through and was hoping there would be something like that here too.
Just put my CB in a couple weeks ago and wanted to run the power directly to the battery.

Was easy.....on the driver's side of the firewall (at least on mine...'92) is a big rubber block that carries the main electrical harness from the engine compartment into the tub under the dash. It's way oversized so I just drilled through in the upper left corner (looking at it from the engine side) making sure I was well away from the harness in the middle. Worked like a charm, slipped the wires through, mounted them along the firewall with sticky-backed mounting tabs and secured with tie-wraps.

If you need a pic, lemme know.

His : 1992 YJ (Almighty 4 banger)
Hers: 2004 WJ Columbia Edition (4.7HO)


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post #4 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 06:54 AM
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ya, if your using hex wrenches to try to remove those torx bolts you will strip them. if you look closely they are actually shaped like stars, not hexagons. if your going to be working on the jeep yourself, i suggest going and buying a good set of torx from Napa, and then the larger sizes, buy an extra of each. if you ever go to remove seatbelts or roll bar or even the windshield bolts, chances are you will break the torx driver. Ive went through 4 so far. good luck
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 08:50 AM
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A couple of tips for working with torx bolts, besides using the star-shaped key instead of the hexagon-shaped one : 1. make sure they are clean so you can get right to the bottom of them, 2. for the initial break (the first movement of the bolt) assuming you're right-handed, try keeping the key straight and deep in the bolt with a pair of pliers with your left hand while you put force on the bolt with your right. Don't force with the pliers, just accompany - it's job is to keep the key in place.

Apparently robot arms like Torx...
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prossett
2. for the initial break (the first movement of the bolt) assuming you're right-handed, try keeping the key straight and deep in the bolt with a pair of pliers with your left hand while you put force on the bolt with your right. Don't force with the pliers, just accompany - it's job is to keep the key in place.
Try and get a set of torx for a 1/2" drive breaker bar...the ones holding my front bumper on came off with relative ease that way.

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post #7 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
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Ahh, yes i meant Torx not Hex, hex just came to mind first i guess. I have a Torx set that goes up to T-30 and then i bought the T-40 and T-45 yesterday. I'm afraid i've already broken one of the points off the T-40 already and dont think its going to work very well anymore so i'll have to get a new one, and they are like $4.50 oh well.

I'll try drilling through that rubber block tonight, i'm pretty sure i know which one ur talking about.

Still looking for a way to secure my 6x9 boxes, i'll probly get those ones made for the jeep sometime later when i get some extra money but until now i'll have to make due w/ the boxes.

Could you explain exactly what a breaker bar is? thanks

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post #8 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmybay
I'll try drilling through that rubber block tonight, i'm pretty sure i know which one ur talking about.
yep, there's only 1 I know of...oval shaped.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmybay
Still looking for a way to secure my 6x9 boxes, i'll probly get those ones made for the jeep sometime later when i get some extra money but until now i'll have to make due w/ the boxes.
Kid who had my Jeep before me, already had those ones that jam in the space where the sport bar comes alongside the rear seat...got lucky on that. Seems like I hardly hear them though unless I move the fader way towards the rear (like -4 or -5 on the radio display). One of the previous owners must have replaced the dash speakers because they sound pretty decent and I noticed the factory wires were hacked into wires using the now standard color code.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmybay
Could you explain exactly what a breaker bar is? thanks
A ratchet that doesn't ratchet

Basically a long bar (usally about 12"-15" or more) that accepts sockets. Gives ya the ability to use a socket and get great leverage.

Somethin' like this:

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post #9 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 01:30 PM
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My understanding of a breaker bar - which is a great idea for tight bolts, BTW - is that it is a 10-15" pipe that fits onto the outside end of your wrench or key, thereby allowing you to put a lot more force into turning it, due to the extended handle length.

I think the 1/2" Shinner was refering to is the size that fits the socket, if you're using a ratchet wrench with a socket set instead of keys.

Right, Shinner? Just thought I'd answer since I'm here... don't mean to butt in.

Again, make sure the socket or key fits and stays in the bolt tight, or you'll definitely mash it with the additional force of the breaker bar .
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post #10 of 10 Old 04-06-2004, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prossett
My understanding of a breaker bar - which is a great idea for tight bolts, BTW - is that it is a 10-15" pipe that fits onto the outside end of your wrench or key, thereby allowing you to put a lot more force into turning it, due to the extended handle length.
That would fit the bill, but generally when you hear someone speak of a "breaker bar" it's what I showed in that pic.

I had to throw a chunk of pipe on the end of my breaker bar a while back in order to bust loose the bolts holding the trans crossmember in.

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