So it's time. The stars have aligned and my 4.0 is on its last leg. I have a acquired a 90 mustang 5.0 that is far from stock.
Motor specs- 90 5.0 .030 over. , 331 crank, AFR 185cc heads, EFI spyder intake, trick flow roller rockers, bbk headers, crower cam, etc... The list goes on... The car was built, put under 10k on it then just sat for 4 years. Got it on the super cheap and no, I'm not changing my mind.
This is to do document how to do this swap cheap, problems and how to solve them.
Motor being pulled
And that's where I'm at now. Got the parts soaking. Gonna put the engine back together tomorrow hopefully..
And maybe start the wiring nightmare. Got the harness pulled out tonight.
They are awesome heads. I did find out cylinder 3 had FOD at some point as the valve and seat were replaced other than that the motor is brand new. Bearings are perfect. The crower cam is supposed to be a mid but I guess I'll see. I might change it but want to see first. Car was pretty much undrivable due to blown intake gaskets and timing cover gaskets instantly pouring all the coolant out.
Got the heads back on. Adjusted the valves. Trick flow 1.7 roller rockers.
I don't know how many cams crower made, but I remember 2 or 3 were popular because they kicked up performance quite a bit but had good idle an vac so the computer wasn't tripped up. they'd scream with those 4.10 gears but that was with 26" tall tires!
Ya. I cannot wait to get it running. I was told the car ran high 10s but when I got it ram like crap due to the blown gaskets. Pulled the old 4.0 today. Just waiting on Novak so then I can fab my motor mounts.
So I did what Novak and advanced adapters said was impossible. I mated a t5 stang bellhousing to the Novak adapter. I drilled new holes in the corners, used some Allen head bolts and works perfect. About 2 hours of modifying the bellhousing though.
One issue remaining though, I still have to cut about an inch out of the bellhousing pivot because it is to long. The fork is to close to the clutch as where it is now is full disengaged. My plan is to cut 3/4" out of the pivot shaft then weld it back together. Then take 1/4" out of the boss it's mounted on. Then the clutch fork should work perfect.