Motor Mount Install Question -
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Unread 04-15-2010, 10:06 PM   #1
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
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Motor Mount Install Question

I searched and no one seems to be quite as inept as I am at swapping motor mounts. I have a new set from QTec. They are the correct part. I jacked the engine up under the oil pan skid plate with a 2x4 padding the jack. Driver's side first. Everything came off slick as could be. Compared the old to the new mount and they matched. The problem is that I could not get the new MM to line up properly. If the through bolt was in, then the frame bolt wouldn't align and drop in. If I set the MM against the frame, I could never get the through bolt through all the way. I raised and lowered the engine slightly, loosened the MM bracket that attaches to the block a little and tried but still couldn't get everything to line up and bolt in. After an hour I put the old broken mount back in. The Jeep won this round! I have no doubt someone here has the trick I need to beat this thing. Thanks.

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Unread 04-15-2010, 10:23 PM   #2
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I have always loosened both sides at once. I leave everything loose until all the nuts are on. I think your problems were from the engine pivoting on the other motor mount.
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Unread 04-15-2010, 10:33 PM   #3
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That makes sense. After jacking the engine up, it was positioned like it was twisting slightly. I lost the wrestling match trying to un-torque it. Probably because it was anchored on one side. Thanks!
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Unread 04-15-2010, 10:58 PM   #4
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If you have broken engine mounts, you might want to replace your trans mount while you're wrenching under there. It's probably toasted too.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:06 AM   #5
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Speaking of Tranny/TC mounts... they need to be loose too, in order to help get the MMs to line up.

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Unread 04-16-2010, 12:23 AM   #6
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RockWorm hit it! You need to loosen tranny mounts as well as both MM to change them and give you enough play to get the bolt to go through. Might as well change the trans mount too. As tbburg said, if one of the MM were toast, the tranny mount is probably toast as well.
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Unread 04-16-2010, 09:54 AM   #7
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Engine mounts/lifts are quick & easy job.

Either way, here are the highlights of motor mount replacement.

1) Loosen the tranny mount bolts at the center of the skid plate. When the job is completed, this will allow it to sit in a "natural" state without putting unnecessary tension on the mounts.
2) Loosen, but do not remove both of the large center bolts that pass through the engine mounts & the brackets on the engine.
3) Remove the bolt & nut (on the stud) that attach the motor mount to the frame.
4) Support the oil pan with a chunk of 2X6 & a floor jack with a small amount of tension, enough to where the mounts just begin to lift off of the frame.
5) Remove the bolts that attach the motor mount brackets to the engine block on just one side only!

Remove that mount & bracket as a unit & change the mount on the workbench & reinstall it as a unit.

6) Tighten the bolts that hold the bracket to the engine to specification.
7) Repeat steps 5 & 6 for the other side. Lower the engine weight back onto the new mounts.
8) Install & tighten the bolt & the nut on the motor mount to frame attachment point. Then tighten the large bolt that runs through the center of the mount.
9) Tighten the 2 tranny mount bolts on the skid plate.

If it took longer than 1-1/2 hours you were screwing off.

Poly mounts last longer.
Poly mounts transmit more engine vibration through the frame.

You decide. We have 2 YJs at our house, both with poly mounts & I never noticed any difference myself.

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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 04-16-2010, 05:07 PM   #8
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Well Max you've given me the motivation to have at it again, since I tried earlier today prior to reading your post and failed. I didn't loosen the Tranny Mount Bolts and I'm hoping that was my issue. I loosened both sides and each side came out very easily. My problem seems to be that the new mounts just don't fit in properly. I managed to get one new mount installed on the pssgr side and then was able to get the old good pssgr side mount to fit in the driver side spot. I actually think the QTec mounts are not spec. I wrestled with one new mount and it wouldn't fit on either side. The other new one fit just fine. I never give up, so tomorrow I'll get some local MMs and follow Max's directions and hopefully get everything done correctly. Last step would be to ship the QTec mounts back as well. Thanks everyone for your help. So far I'm only 4 1/2 hours into completing this 1 1/2 hour job
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Unread 04-16-2010, 05:23 PM   #9
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I was going to come in here and tell ya all I know about motor mounts, seeing as I just replaced mine recently... But Max strikes again!

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Unread 04-19-2010, 08:16 AM   #10
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I got new OEM motor mounts at AdvanceAuto and following Max's directions they dropped right in. It was a 30 minute job to swap them out. When I compared the Quadratec motor mounts to the OEM AdvanceAuto ones, the distance between the bolt in the MM and the hole in the MM that mount to the frame was 1/4 inch greater, hence a reason I couldn't get them to drop in.
Again, you guys are the best! Thanks.

Last edited by Lonan; 04-19-2010 at 08:33 AM..
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Unread 04-10-2011, 06:43 PM   #11
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This is exactly what the search function is for. I'm going to replace my motor mounts tomorrow and wanted a little guidance before I started. Although I have a TJ I think it's pretty much the same. Thanks guys.
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Unread 05-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #12
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Little bit a an old thread bump......

is the oil pan sturdy enough to support the entire motor? I just don't want to dent the pan. Has everyone been just doing this with no issues?
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Unread 05-27-2011, 11:19 AM   #13
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I've always used the oil pan on my jeep to support the motor when changing mounts. I also always have a piece of wood in between. I've never had an issue as long as you don't try to jack the motor up too high. Just get it high enough to take the weight off the bolts.

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Unread 05-27-2011, 11:29 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Lonan View Post
The Jeep won this round!
Never, ever let a vehicle beat you!

That's the first rule of wrenching.
It's just a machine.
Man built it, man can fix it!
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Unread 05-27-2011, 01:48 PM   #15
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Check for forward and aft movement. When I replaced mine I realized my engine and transmission had settled an inch or so behind where it should have been. It meant the use of a pry bar to move it forward until I could get the bolts in.
It should be fine as long as it was "gently" rolled...

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Not to mention the body doesn't match the frame that doesn't match the engine...
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