More Bolt-In Cage

93YJjeep · 09-29-2004, 12:06 PM

I was thinking of purchasing this kit with the Frame Tie-In kit (http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/SportCages/cageSALE.htm) for my 93. Does anyone have an opinion on how effective this would be? I would think it would be definitely stronger than factory setup and other kits that bolt to the dash area. Just wondering if it would be worth it. I really only do mild wheeling so it would just be an extra safety measure.

Also, does anyone have an pics of it in their jeep.

Thanks

pdw · 09-29-2004, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93YJjeep

I was thinking of purchasing this kit with the Frame Tie-In kit (http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/SportCages/cageSALE.htm) for my 93. Does anyone have an opinion on how effective this would be? I would think it would be definitely stronger than factory setup and other kits that bolt to the dash area. Just wondering if it would be worth it. I really only do mild wheeling so it would just be an extra safety measure.

Also, does anyone have an pics of it in their jeep.

Thanks

Well, If you don't mind losing space for you feet and knees when getting in and out of the Jeep. I bought the Toys By Troy setup off of 4x4groupbuy.com

JT29 · 09-29-2004, 02:25 PM

I would look into Rock Hard 4x4 bolt in cage kits that is what I plan on putting in. www.rockhard4x4parts.com

skylinerider · 09-29-2004, 04:46 PM

That rockhard4x4 one is still only tied into the dash. It doesn't tie into the frame.
video

After seeing this I am going to spend the extra and get one that ties into the frame.

pdw · 09-29-2004, 04:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skylinerider

That rockhard4x4 one is still only tied into the dash. It doesn't tie into the frame.
video

After seeing this I am going to spend the extra and get one that ties into the frame.

Do you know what kind of cage this guy was using? I'd really be interested to know-was it a blot-in type, or was it a full cage? If that would have been a stock cage the driver probably would have been dead.

OlllllllO · 09-29-2004, 05:07 PM

just in hearing other people experiences i would go with a weld-in cage....bolts have a much larger chance of breaking in a rollover. i'm eventually gonna get mine done at a local hot rod shop, and then i'd just have an entire cage front and back built. it'll definately cost more but can you really put a price on your safety??

skylinerider · 09-29-2004, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdw

Do you know what kind of cage this guy was using? I'd really be interested to know-was it a blot-in type, or was it a full cage? If that would have been a stock cage the driver probably would have been dead.

It was an ORF cage. Bolt in to the dash

Thread is here clicky

bluYJ · 09-29-2004, 05:19 PM

The frame tie-in isn't all it's made out to be. Unless you plan on redoing the entire cage, in which case you should just have one built. The factory "sport bar" is just bolted in (including the rear section - bolted to the floor). When you tie in the front cage, but leave the back half alone, it doesn't account for the flexing that takes place. When you're off-roading and your frame starts flexing, what happens if the body isn't flexing in the exact same way? It puts extra stress where the 2 cages meet up, which decreases the effectiveness. If you look at the people who do a lot of 4-wheeling competitions, their entire roll cage is tied in with the frame (same with race cars, etc...). OK, with that being said, I have the MORE "bolt in" sports bar, but just bolted it to the floor. No, it's not as effective as a custom built roll cage, but it's better protection than stock. It does take a little extra foot space away, but it's livable. It also takes some twisting of your foot to engage the parking brake.

**tube yj** · 09-29-2004, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluYJ

The frame tie-in isn't all it's made out to be. Unless you plan on redoing the entire cage, in which case you should just have one built. The factory "sport bar" is just bolted in (including the rear section - bolted to the floor). When you tie in the front cage, but leave the back half alone, it doesn't account for the flexing that takes place. When you're off-roading and your frame starts flexing, what happens if the body isn't flexing in the exact same way? It puts extra stress where the 2 cages meet up, which decreases the effectiveness. If you look at the people who do a lot of 4-wheeling competitions, their entire roll cage is tied in with the frame (same with race cars, etc...). OK, with that being said, I have the MORE "bolt in" sports bar, but just bolted it to the floor. No, it's not as effective as a custom built roll cage, but it's better protection than stock. It does take a little extra foot space away, but it's livable. It also takes some twisting of your foot to engage the parking brake.

i disagree, i ran the same setup you are refering to. weld in cage kit for TOR tied in to the frame in the front and left the rest alone. That setup held up to 4 roll overs including one end over end roll over that would have destoryed the more cage.

I also ran the MORE cage before the TOR and replaced it after it shifted in a flop on to my side. It was tied into the frame and even had extra bracing in the form of a windsheild cross bar and it still shifted in a light hit.

My crent setup is tied to the frame in 6 places though

93YJjeep · 09-30-2004, 07:25 AM

I like the looks of the TBT Bolt-In Cage, and have no question it would hold up after seening the video clip of him rolling it. However, I am still kind of wanting one that runs to the floor. As anyone heard anything on the posion spyder trail cage(http://www.poisonspydercustoms.com/index2.html)? It seems to be a combination of both. Looked at the TOR weld-in one as well. Too many choices.

Jeeponrock · 09-30-2004, 08:36 AM

The stock main hoop, which should be replaced because it really isn't that strong, does tie to the frame. There is a body mount and floor reinforcement under it. The rear doesn't tie into the frame, but can be tied in.

Losing a little foot room is much better than having the cage fold like a dollar bill going into a stripper's garter. I am always amused, and somewhat horrified by reading these type of threads. People don't mind putting $1000 worth of stereo, $1000 worth of rims, $1200 worth of tires, etc. but then get a case of the cheaps and laters when it comes to their actual safety. I've been there, too. Not as much bling factor with the cage, but I have one now, and I am going to be adding more to it (floor bars, seat mounts, etc.). You saw the clip. It was a very low speed rollover, and while the trail it was on was fairly tough, it isn't extreme. Just keep in mind that the type of roll on that vieo is MUCH les severe that if you swerved to miss a dog while driving 45 mph to the trail head and rolled 4 or 5 times.

You can get a fully built cage from a reputable local builder for about $1000, or you can get a kit for a couple hundred, and have a certified welder assemble it for you for about the same or a little less. You can also get a full bling cage for about $2000 from a local builder.

I would say avoid the bolt together route. No sanctioning body for any type of competition allows a bolt together cage. There is a good reason for that. The bolts won't handle the loads when you need it most.

condoor · 09-30-2004, 03:01 PM

I've been researching roll cages as well and just ordered the MORE kit today. (I think today is the last day for the sale). I'm going to bolt it in for now, and then have it welded in a few months and more sreaders added when I have more money. This seems like a good solid cage platform to build on. No, it's not as good as going ahead and getting a $1000 cage, but it does allow for you to build it up in stages.

This is a much harder roll than the one above and the cage holds up really well.
http://www.thedragonsden.net/jeep/theroll.wmv

This is a quote from the owner of the jeep above:
"...the YJ in the roll had a MORE sport cage in (welded), with a few extra spreaders and gussets for triangulation + saftey"

bluYJ · 09-30-2004, 05:09 PM

The stock bar DOES NOT tie into the frame (not even the main hoop). Check with anyone who has ever put on a body lift. If the main hoop was tied into the frame, it would be lower once a body lift was put on (like the stock shifters (transfer case and manual tranny). But, the main hoop, along with the rest of the sports bar lifts along with everything else that is attached to the "body".

Jeeponrock · 09-30-2004, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluYJ

The stock bar DOES NOT tie into the frame (not even the main hoop). Check with anyone who has ever put on a body lift. If the main hoop was tied into the frame, it would be lower once a body lift was put on (like the stock shifters (transfer case and manual tranny). But, the main hoop, along with the rest of the sports bar lifts along with everything else that is attached to the "body".

Take a look at your Jeep. If you look at the body mounts that are right in front of the rear wheels, you will see that they are almost directly under the main hoop of your factory roll cage.

Now, for a primer, if it were attached directly too the frame, it would stay still when you jacked up the body, but it IS supported by the body mount. It is not tied as directly as I would like, but look at the rear bars, and you will note that there isn't really a body mount anywhere near them. Often, for the main hoop, a secondary frame tie-in isn't used because there isn't any room for it. For the front hoop (on an add-on or custom cage), additional frame tie-ins ARE made to support the cage and tie it to the frame bacause the body mount isn't sitting under it.

Now then, with that out of the way, let's connect a few dots. The main hoop is tied to the frame through a body mount. Isn't it pretty obvious if you do a body lift, and unbolt the body mount, thereby unbolting the frame tie-in for the main bar, that the main bar will move? If you put in a full cage, and tie it to the frame, when you do a body lift, you have to unbolt the frame tie-ins from the cage in order to lift the body. Does that mean that there weren't any frame tie-ins to start with?

Bottom line, you unbolt the frame tie-in for the main hoop when you do the body lift.

93YJjeep · 09-30-2004, 09:32 PM

Thank you for all of the comments and links to look at on roll cages. I have decided to get the TOR Weld-In cage and the More Frame Tie-In kit. I found someone that I know who has the time to weld it. The best part they are going to do it for free, quality should be good too because they weld for a living.

09-29-2004, 04:46 PM	#4
skylinerider Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 362 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	That rockhard4x4 one is still only tied into the dash. It doesn't tie into the frame. video After seeing this I am going to spend the extra and get one that ties into the frame. __________________ skylinerider™ SKYLINERIDER.NET If you can't taste the sarcasm try licking the screen.

09-29-2004, 05:19 PM	#8
bluYJ Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: kansas Posts: 97 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The frame tie-in isn't all it's made out to be. Unless you plan on redoing the entire cage, in which case you should just have one built. The factory "sport bar" is just bolted in (including the rear section - bolted to the floor). When you tie in the front cage, but leave the back half alone, it doesn't account for the flexing that takes place. When you're off-roading and your frame starts flexing, what happens if the body isn't flexing in the exact same way? It puts extra stress where the 2 cages meet up, which decreases the effectiveness. If you look at the people who do a lot of 4-wheeling competitions, their entire roll cage is tied in with the frame (same with race cars, etc...). OK, with that being said, I have the MORE "bolt in" sports bar, but just bolted it to the floor. No, it's not as effective as a custom built roll cage, but it's better protection than stock. It does take a little extra foot space away, but it's livable. It also takes some twisting of your foot to engage the parking brake. __________________ 95 yj, 4 cyl, auto trans, 4 1/2" Rubicon Express extreme duty lift, 33" BFG Muds, 4:88 gears, Detroit's front and rear, Dana 44 rear axle with disc brakes, heavy duty Dodge NP231,SYE, MORE sport cage. [COLOR=blue]Blue Jeep Club Member #61[/COLOR]

09-30-2004, 05:09 PM	#13
bluYJ Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: kansas Posts: 97 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The stock bar DOES NOT tie into the frame (not even the main hoop). Check with anyone who has ever put on a body lift. If the main hoop was tied into the frame, it would be lower once a body lift was put on (like the stock shifters (transfer case and manual tranny). But, the main hoop, along with the rest of the sports bar lifts along with everything else that is attached to the "body". __________________ 95 yj, 4 cyl, auto trans, 4 1/2" Rubicon Express extreme duty lift, 33" BFG Muds, 4:88 gears, Detroit's front and rear, Dana 44 rear axle with disc brakes, heavy duty Dodge NP231,SYE, MORE sport cage. [COLOR=blue]Blue Jeep Club Member #61[/COLOR]

09-29-2004, 02:25 PM	#3
JT29 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: So Cal Posts: 286 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I would look into Rock Hard 4x4 bolt in cage kits that is what I plan on putting in. www.rockhard4x4parts.com

09-30-2004, 07:25 AM	#10
93YJjeep Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miamisburg,OH Posts: 163 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I like the looks of the TBT Bolt-In Cage, and have no question it would hold up after seening the video clip of him rolling it. However, I am still kind of wanting one that runs to the floor. As anyone heard anything on the posion spyder trail cage(http://www.poisonspydercustoms.com/index2.html)? It seems to be a combination of both. Looked at the TOR weld-in one as well. Too many choices.

09-30-2004, 08:36 AM	#11
Jeeponrock Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Stone Mountain, GA Posts: 114 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	The stock main hoop, which should be replaced because it really isn't that strong, does tie to the frame. There is a body mount and floor reinforcement under it. The rear doesn't tie into the frame, but can be tied in. Losing a little foot room is much better than having the cage fold like a dollar bill going into a stripper's garter. I am always amused, and somewhat horrified by reading these type of threads. People don't mind putting $1000 worth of stereo, $1000 worth of rims, $1200 worth of tires, etc. but then get a case of the cheaps and laters when it comes to their actual safety. I've been there, too. Not as much bling factor with the cage, but I have one now, and I am going to be adding more to it (floor bars, seat mounts, etc.). You saw the clip. It was a very low speed rollover, and while the trail it was on was fairly tough, it isn't extreme. Just keep in mind that the type of roll on that vieo is MUCH les severe that if you swerved to miss a dog while driving 45 mph to the trail head and rolled 4 or 5 times. You can get a fully built cage from a reputable local builder for about $1000, or you can get a kit for a couple hundred, and have a certified welder assemble it for you for about the same or a little less. You can also get a full bling cage for about $2000 from a local builder. I would say avoid the bolt together route. No sanctioning body for any type of competition allows a bolt together cage. There is a good reason for that. The bolts won't handle the loads when you need it most.

09-30-2004, 03:01 PM	#12
condoor Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: CO Posts: 79 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	I've been researching roll cages as well and just ordered the MORE kit today. (I think today is the last day for the sale). I'm going to bolt it in for now, and then have it welded in a few months and more sreaders added when I have more money. This seems like a good solid cage platform to build on. No, it's not as good as going ahead and getting a $1000 cage, but it does allow for you to build it up in stages. This is a much harder roll than the one above and the cage holds up really well. http://www.thedragonsden.net/jeep/theroll.wmv This is a quote from the owner of the jeep above: "...the YJ in the roll had a MORE sport cage in (welded), with a few extra spreaders and gussets for triangulation + saftey"

09-30-2004, 09:32 PM	#15
93YJjeep Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Miamisburg,OH Posts: 163 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Thank you for all of the comments and links to look at on roll cages. I have decided to get the TOR Weld-In cage and the More Frame Tie-In kit. I found someone that I know who has the time to weld it. The best part they are going to do it for free, quality should be good too because they weld for a living.