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Unread 04-07-2010, 10:11 PM   #1
Unii
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MML Questions

what does it take to put one in? i'm assuming unbolt the old mounts lift the engine and put the new mounts in, is that right? or is there more...

there is always more haha

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Unread 04-07-2010, 10:25 PM   #2
ritjobbie
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The passenger side mount bolt can't come out without removing the alternator on the 2.5L.

Other than that, it's really as easy as it sounds.

BROWN DOG!!!
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Unread 04-07-2010, 10:26 PM   #3
Unii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ritjobbie View Post
The passenger side mount bolt can't come out without removing the alternator on the 2.5L.

Other than that, it's really as easy as it sounds.

BROWN DOG!!!
thats no biggie, and yes brown dog for sure.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:10 AM   #4
Axl Jack
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Is a 1" BL semi-required when doing a 1" MML? What I mean is, although not absolutely necessary, is it a good idea to be doing a 1" BL at the same time so there are no issues with clearance with the transmission/t-case tunnel under the body?
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:18 AM   #5
Unii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axl Jack View Post
Is a 1" BL semi-required when doing a 1" MML? What I mean is, although not absolutely necessary, is it a good idea to be doing a 1" BL at the same time so there are no issues with clearance with the transmission/t-case tunnel under the body?
i believe so if not you gotta beat the tunnel up to make clearance.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:23 AM   #6
RaggedOleMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axl Jack View Post
Is a 1" BL semi-required when doing a 1" MML? What I mean is, although not absolutely necessary, is it a good idea to be doing a 1" BL at the same time so there are no issues with clearance with the transmission/t-case tunnel under the body?
The 1" BL raises your fan shroud, too.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:24 AM   #7
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Do you guys do this to compensate for body lift?
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by JimHuss View Post
Do you guys do this to compensate for body lift?
I did the 1" BL to assure clearance for 33's on a 2-1/2" OME lift.

Added the 1" MML to solve the fan shroud issue associated with the 1" BL and to provide added insurance to minimize d/l vibes. Added adjustable, rear UCA's at the same time for the same reason.

I was also hoping to delay the inevitable SYE for $$ reasons. In my case, I bent my transfer case output shaft on the maiden voyage after installing the lift, BL and MML & 33's and had to upgrade to the SYE immediately... EDIT: The SYE required a new drive shaft, too...$

Then too, the steering manners changed after the BL/MML were installed and in my case had to add a M.O.R.E. steering bracket to resolve that issue...

They say that modifications are often never as simple as they appear on Jeeps. It's been my experience that, who ever "they" are, "they're" right...

I did all the installations, with the exception of the SYE, myself, so it wasn't as expensive as it could have been.

Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 04-08-2010 at 12:50 AM..
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Unread 04-08-2010, 12:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
I did the 1" BL to assure clearance for 33's on a 2-1/2" OME lift.

Added the 1" MML to solve the fan shroud issue associated with the 1" BL and to provide added insurance to minimize d/l vibes. Added adjustable, rear UCA's at the same time for the same reason.

I was also hoping to delay the inevitable SYE for $$ reasons. In my case, I bent my transfer case output shaft on the maiden voyage after installing the lift, BL and MML & 33's and had to upgrade to the SYE immediately...

They say that modifications are often never as simple as they appear on Jeeps. It's been my experience that, who ever "they" are, "they're" right...
Ha, cool I learned something new about body on frame vehicles today, thanks. I almost did a MML to move my whole drivetrain assmbly upward so I could make a flush tranny crossmember. Dedcided it was to much work and made it 1.25 drop. Better than the stock 2.5 inch t member drop!
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Originally Posted by chris87xj View Post
Sometimes a restoration project is a labor of love, at which point cost, time, and labor involved become irrelevant.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BorderC View Post
I see you also twizzled your scart lead. Well done! :thumbsup:
92 XJ with ARB's, 5" lift, too much armor, 33's and some other garbage
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Unread 04-08-2010, 01:02 AM   #10
Unii
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Originally Posted by JimHuss View Post
Do you guys do this to compensate for body lift?
i'd be doing it for driveline angles too.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 08:25 AM   #11
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A few words about MML's:

Jeep Motor Mount Lifts (MML)

Don't remove the alternator to change the passenger side mount; remove the engine bracket instead.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 09:56 AM   #12
ritjobbie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brown Dog View Post
Don't remove the alternator to change the passenger side mount; remove the engine bracket instead.
NOW YOU TELL ME!!! DOH!



I should have been smart enough to figure that out on my own. Dang. Dang. Dang.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 10:01 AM   #13
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IMO, I recommend you do the tranny mount too. The tranny mount holes in the skid are slotted, and the new motor mounts will change the height of the motor which will move the tranny mounting position a bit. In order to not have any binding or stress on the new mounts, loosen the tranny mount first will let it move where it wants to be.

For the motor mounts, I use a floor jack with a wooden block under the oil pan to lift the motor just enough to take the weight off the mounts. Loosen, but do not remove the large single main bolt that runs through the mount, then remove the bolts that hold the motor mount brackets to the engine block & the bolt & nut attaching the mount to the frame. Remove the whole assembly & swap the mounts on the workbench.

I put the passenger side "main bolt" through the mount in the opposite direction from the factory. The factory arrangement has the head of the bolt facing the back of the alternator, and it will not slide out without removing the alternator or the whole engine bracket. I put the nut on that side, so the next time you replace the mount you can leave the engine mounting bracket on the engine & slide the bolt out towards the firewall.

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Unread 04-08-2010, 10:42 AM   #14
RikRotorhead
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I did the body lift and MM lift the same day.
They are both super easy and only takes about three beers.
I have the six cylinder tho'.
I did the passenger side first, opposite what the instructions from Brown Dog recommends. It worked out fine tho'.
The first thing on the instructions is to loosen the tranny mount nuts. Be sure to do that.
I did the rubber Brown Dog 1" MM lift just to assure a no engine vibe result. I did the body lift to accommodate the 33 inch tires and the MM lift to get rid of the t-case drop from my 2.5 inch suspension lift.
The Brown Dog mounts are very high quality, worth the extra couple bucks in my opinion.
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Unread 04-08-2010, 11:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
IMO, I recommend you do the tranny mount too. The tranny mount holes in the skid are slotted, and the new motor mounts will change the height of the motor which will move the tranny mounting position a bit. In order to not have any binding or stress on the new mounts, loosen the tranny mount first will let it move where it wants to be.


Max
I agree, a new HP poly mounts less than 30 bucks, stockers like 18. My trans mt did deteriorate after i put the MML on. It was old though and i didnt loosen when i did the MML which i should have
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