post #31 of Old 06-13-2006, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
atomicmoose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraithyjeep
you need just a vacum line to your dizzy off of ported either on the front or pass side of carb.
you need a manifold sorce from the manifold to the red 4x4 line
chuck everything else
So....not all of these lines are going to be used? Should they just be capped and forgotten?

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post #32 of Old 06-13-2006, 07:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
So....not all of these lines are going to be used? Should they just be capped and forgotten?
yup

13 Rubi
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post #33 of Old 06-14-2006, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, I did some more reading last night and I think I understand a bit better where things go. I was just under the impression that all of the ports on the carb needed to be used.
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post #34 of Old 06-15-2006, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Trying to fire this thing up....having trouble getting it to start.

How can I prime this thing? It is definately a lack of fuel keeping it from starting.
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post #35 of Old 06-15-2006, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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ok, got her running but idle is crazy high....like around 4000 rpm.

Is this just an idle screw adjustment or is something up??
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post #36 of Old 06-16-2006, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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No one??
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post #37 of Old 06-16-2006, 07:39 AM
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Hey, just a thought, have you rechecked for any open vacuum lines and made sure mounting hardware and caskets are snug. Sounds like it could be sucking air, most of these carbs come somewhat preset, at least my Weber was. Is linkage freed up, I just remembered I had to put on a stiffer spring for throttle return.

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post #38 of Old 06-16-2006, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King03Kev
Hey, just a thought, have you rechecked for any open vacuum lines and made sure mounting hardware and caskets are snug. Sounds like it could be sucking air, most of these carbs come somewhat preset, at least my Weber was. Is linkage freed up, I just remembered I had to put on a stiffer spring for throttle return.
Bolts and gaskets are snug! Although I do need to get some starter fluid and check for leaks under the carb.

I think it may be a vacuum problem....just not sure where.

Also, I forgot to put the gasket back in the choke assembly....ooops! Would that cause this?
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post #39 of Old 06-16-2006, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Which port did you guys plug your PCV into?
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post #40 of Old 06-16-2006, 01:02 PM
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big one around back of the carb near the base near the mounting bolt on driver side rear of the carb.
if there isn't one there drill and jb weld some 3/8 copper pipe in.

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post #41 of Old 06-16-2006, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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No, it's there and I have it plugged in there....when I removed the hose from that port to see why it was idling so high, you can hear that port sucking major air. I put my finger over it and the engine started to die, remove finger and it races again.

I can't pinpoint this high idle problem. I have to be missing something stupid.
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post #42 of Old 06-16-2006, 01:14 PM
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is your butterflys closed all the way your idle screw backed all the way off and your high idle off or unscrewed.
then check to see if your butter flys are closed all the way push against the throttle to see if ya can get it to idle lower.
it may be the throttle plates are out of alignement and and it's keep your throttle partly open

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post #43 of Old 06-16-2006, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraithyjeep
is your butterflys closed all the way your idle screw backed all the way off and your high idle off or unscrewed.
then check to see if your butter flys are closed all the way push against the throttle to see if ya can get it to idle lower.
it may be the throttle plates are out of alignement and and it's keep your throttle partly open
I should remove the high idle screw?

My instructions said to turn both idle screws clockwise until they can't go anymore and then back them out 2 full turns.

Perhaps a few tips on tuning this thing would be good. I am a n00b when it comes to carbs.

I will check the buttleflys when I get home.
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post #44 of Old 06-16-2006, 01:54 PM
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you confusing idle screws for idle mixture screws
the fast idle screw on the pass. side of carb with all the choke linkage and stuff there, smaller screw, that when cold that fast idle screw sits on steps of the fast idle cam.

on the driver side is a screw that pushes on the throttle plate that is your (curb) idle screw this should for the most part be barely scewed in. it is a larger screw.

now to the screws you mentioned idle mixture screws
they are at the front of the carb tucked under the float bown sort of hard to get too. these you screw in lightly then 2 full turns out the for your initial carb settings these screws are separate but need to match closely in unison when tuning your carb's idle mixture 1/2 turn for one 1/2 turn for the other do this in or out at 1/2 turn increments every minute or so with a blurp of the throttle to reset pressures then try to acheive highest idle possible then turn in 1/2 turn then adjust your curb idle down or up to get close to 750 rpm do this only when the jeep is at operating temperature.

you need to learn more about carbs search other posts and find the diagram link to the 2150 carb I posted some where.

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post #45 of Old 06-16-2006, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wraithyjeep
you need to learn more about carbs search other posts and find the diagram link to the 2150 carb I posted some where.
I have been looking...
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