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#1 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Man vs Roll Bar: An Epic Tale
I have spent the better part of this week trying to get my roll bar out. Stripped a bunch of torx bolts, bashed up my hands, cursed a lot.
Then yesterday I bought a new ratcheting breaker bar, crow foot wrench heads for said bar, extenders for said bar, and some other bits and pieces. I used my Dremel to cut two or four sides on each bolt, then used the wrench heads and breaker bar to get them moving. This works brilliantly, I have 7 of the 12 bolts out now. One is being an absolute bastard, front passenger side, but other than that they're coming out rather quickly. These bolts are in there really well too. They were in so tight that I sheared off my first T45 bit. But breaker bar + wrench head = awesome. I'll have photos up later of the bolts and my tools and some action shots too! This seems to be a very good method - no drilling out, no welding, just a breaker bar and a Dremel with reinforced cutoff wheels.
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92 YJ Islander debadged and painted flat black on 32x11.5 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlars and Canyons, highlined fenders and extended TJ flares, 4.0L + AX-15, Aussie in the D30, TJ soft top, TJ full doors.Garaged and under the knife for frame-off repair! LJ stretch underway. 97 TJ Sport black on black with the YJ's MT/R Kevlars and lots of new parts coming! Canon EOS-1D Mark III, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM, Canon EF 17-35/2.8L USM, Sigma 50mm f/2.8 EX USM My Fuelly page (fuel economy and usage tracking) |
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#2 |
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FORMELY BIGPIMPIN
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Thats a pretty good idea , its a pain to drill a bolt in the center and extrac it, and welding a nut on dosent always work either. Its nice to have another option. thanks
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=613943see Two fish swim into a concrete wall. One turns to the other and says 'Dam!' |
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#3 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
I don't know but every time I have welded a short bolt on they have always come out. Even using a torch to weld a nut or bolt to a strpped fastener has worked for me. And it is much faster. |
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#4 |
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FORMELY BIGPIMPIN
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sometimes its in a spot where welding isnt pratical and flamable
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=613943see Two fish swim into a concrete wall. One turns to the other and says 'Dam!' |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Sprowley, great idea. If you post some pics it may help alot of guys out of a jamb.
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kevyj87 '87 I6 5spd, 215,000+ miles, Herced, Nuttered, Weber, HEI, RE 4", 1" BL, 4:11's, np231, 33x12.5's, SYE & shaft, 1" brown dog mm, home made bumpers front & rear, Ramsey 8,000lb winch |
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#6 |
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Web Wheeler
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Well it's been a while. About 3 weeks to be exact. BUT - I am only 3 bolts away from removing the roll bar!
The front ones have proved much more stubborn. I think I have figured out a winning combo though - still without drilling or welding. I will post a lot of photos of the process and a list of the tools I've used to do this. I might make a write up thread of its own as well. Again, this involved no welding and no drilling - and won't take you 3 weeks to do since I've worked out all the kinks for you ![]() More in a bit! Sean
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92 YJ Islander debadged and painted flat black on 32x11.5 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlars and Canyons, highlined fenders and extended TJ flares, 4.0L + AX-15, Aussie in the D30, TJ soft top, TJ full doors.Garaged and under the knife for frame-off repair! LJ stretch underway. 97 TJ Sport black on black with the YJ's MT/R Kevlars and lots of new parts coming! Canon EOS-1D Mark III, Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM, Canon EF 17-35/2.8L USM, Sigma 50mm f/2.8 EX USM My Fuelly page (fuel economy and usage tracking) |
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