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Unread 04-02-2013, 10:27 AM   #106
JeepProblems
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hey max,
just rebuilt my ax5 and it wont shift through the gears on the bench. took it apart again and it shifted just fine without the case. any suggestions?

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Unread 04-03-2013, 09:32 PM   #107
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Finally getting around to putting the final touches on my AX15, can someone supply me with a picture of the seal that belongs in the bearing retainer? I took my old retainer in to be sandblasted without remembering to snap a photo of the seal that was in it.
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Unread 05-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
The most important tools of all are your brain, and the FSM.

Beyond that, work safely. Especially under the vehicle & using the press. It's not worth killing yourself or inflicting a permanent injury over. People who know me would argue that I would NEVER say this, but it's only a Jeep.

Max

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Max I need you're help can I message you some how 1995 yj need some advive please help
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Unread 04-08-2014, 03:52 PM   #109
95YJMountie
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Alright guys. My ax15 went out in my yj. Found an ax15 out of an xj. Both are 95' models. My main concern is, will my transfer case from my yj work with the xj trans i just got. Ive read some people say it needs clocked 10* (dont really understand that) but ive also read that some people have installed it with no issues.

Next question: i took the bell-housing and front case off of the new transmission. All the gears are in perfect shape, however, it needs the bearing for the end of the input shaft. I already have it ordered, and it will be here tomorrow morning. How do i remove the old bearing? I didnt see it in the beginning of mean max's thread.

The trans is still installed in my yj, completely untouched. Anything else i need to do other than remove it, and install the new one? Did i miss any steps? Thanks again to anyone who took the time to read this and hopefully help me out. I would like to have the new trans reassembled by tomorrow afternoon.
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Unread 04-08-2014, 04:31 PM   #110
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So that your T case doesn't hang down too low on the Driver's side when bolted to the XJ AX15 transmission, you will need to re-drill the T case mount holes on the rear case of the transmission, at about 10* clockwise from their current location as viewed from behind. You can compare both rear cases side-by-side, and you'll see that the mount holes are clocked differently. It's aluminum, easy to drill, though it needs to be accurate. But........if you've got the thing apart, why not just swap output housings between the two trannies??

For the input bearing, it may be possible to use a 2 jaw puller and remove the input bearing, but you will still be stuck with the issue of how to press one back on. You're going to have to pull apart the transmission, remove mainshaft and cluster gear far enough out of the intermediate plate to be able to then remove the input shaft as a separate entity. Press off bearing, press on new bearing, then reassemble, and re-install front case and your old YJ rear case and you should be back in action.

Another thought--what tells you the input bearing needs to be replaced? If you see galling/brinneling or chunks of busted up bearing, I can understand. If you tell me the input shaft seems to have some up-down play in it when you lift up the trans by the input shaft then remember that this is a cantilevered shaft when it is not installed into the Jeep. What provides stability to that input shaft is its fit into the pilot bearing; only then is that shaft supported at both ends. It is not designed to be a long shaft only supported on one end simply by the bearing in the front case. Up-down deflection of the front of the input shaft in the un-installed transmission fools a lotta folks into thinking that they have a bearing problem. So--unless you see cracked bearing race, chunks of ball carnage etc, you may very well be doing an unnecessary repair, plus that bearing costs about $60 at the cheapest places for a quality unit.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 04-08-2014, 04:44 PM   #111
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Re clocking

Try these threads for information/pics/demo or re clocking:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...-case-1053744/

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4b/aw-4b-4.htm

Even though you already have a solution with rear case swapping, I have not gone page-by-page thru Max's AX 15 rebuild QUESTION thread to be conversant with every post and the information therein, therefore, I'm just going to put these useful links in here, since I know Max would, and he's one busy Jeeper with his Jeep shop lately.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 04-08-2014, 08:45 PM   #112
95YJMountie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
Try these threads for information/pics/demo or re clocking:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...-case-1053744/

http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/aw-4b/aw-4b-4.htm

Even though you already have a solution with rear case swapping, I have not gone page-by-page thru Max's AX 15 rebuild QUESTION thread to be conversant with every post and the information therein, therefore, I'm just going to put these useful links in here, since I know Max would, and he's one busy Jeeper with his Jeep shop lately.

Thank you very much for the detailed response. I had heard of swapping the rear case, but was unaware of if it would work or not. Definitley seems easier than redrilling. Thanks!

As for the bearing. When i drained the fluid from the trans, there were a ton of metal particles. At first sight, i got sick to my stomach thinking the gears were probably gone... Turns out, they look perfect. Absolutley perfect. Turned the bearing with my hand, and i can feel a grinding coming from inside of the bearing.
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Unread 04-08-2014, 09:41 PM   #113
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If that one is grinding, then you have to view the others with somewhat of a jaundiced eye and a great degree of skepticism. Do you think it might be the time to rebuild the thing?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 04-09-2014, 07:03 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opihi59 View Post
If that one is grinding, then you have to view the others with somewhat of a jaundiced eye and a great degree of skepticism. Do you think it might be the time to rebuild the thing?
Well, i thought about it but there are a few reasons i decided to not rebuild it.
1. the gears, and all other internals are in perfect shape.
2. I need to get it done within the next week.
3. I cant quite afford a good rebuild kit..

The bearing on the input shaft it grinding, and causing play in the input shaft. The other bearings seem fine, but i will inspect them more thoroughly later today. If all goes as planned, ill replace the bearing today, and swap my rear case tomorrow... Hopefully.

Once i have it reasembled, what would be the best fluid to refill the trans and tcase with?
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Unread 04-09-2014, 10:20 AM   #115
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Good ole' 10W-30 for the trans, DEX3 auto tranny fluid for the Transfer case. No kidding.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 05-08-2014, 05:42 PM   #116
95YJMountie
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Just wanted to give a big shoutout thank you to mean max! Was about to pull out my hair doing this transmission, but with a quick phone call to him, i got it figured out and am about to take it out for its first real drive since december!!!
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Unread 05-08-2014, 05:45 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YJMountie View Post
Just wanted to give a big shoutout thank you to mean max! Was about to pull out my hair doing this transmission, but with a quick phone call to him, i got it figured out and am about to take it out for its first real drive since december!!!
Good on ya mate!

Glad to help!

Max
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 08-28-2014, 09:21 PM   #118
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There is so much knowledge contained in this link and I am thankful for what I have learned here! I'm fairly new to Jeeps but the bug has bitten deeply! My problem is actually small compared to most others here.
I have a 1995 XJ 4.0, AX-15. I have a leak at the extreme rear end of the transmission where the driveshaft slides in. I got a seal and then went back and got another. The first seal appeared to be maybe for the speedometer but the second seal had the right diameter but the wrong profile. I was hesitant to remove the old leaky seal because my replacement seal was not the same "stepped" profile...
Three questions:
1.) What is the best way to remove this old seal once the driveshaft is yanked? Mine seemed really in there are it felt like I was going to have to destroy it to remove it.
2.) What is the proper part number for the rearmost seal around the shaft that the driveshaft slides into?
3.) Lastly, it was suggested to use a 10W-30 synthetic motor oil in my transmission. Is this ok or do you suggest something else?
Thanks in advance for your assistance!
Scott Baldwin
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Unread 09-03-2014, 02:30 PM   #119
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Hi Mean Max, Awesome rebuild thread. Thank you so much for posting it.

I lost 3rd and 4th gear in my AX-15 at highway speeds, no fanfare when they went, they just disappeared. I cracked the case open yesterday according to your breakdown. I have not begun pulling anything off the shafts yet (everything is still mounted in the intermediate plate), but have a question for you. With the transmission in neutral on the bench, I can spin the 3/4 slider freely with my hand, or hold it steady without it moving while I turn the input shaft. Shifted into 3 or 4 I can turn both shafts in opposite directions with no resistance. I'm guessing the 3/4 synchro hub stripped its teeth and that I'll need a new one of those. My question is, will I likely need a new input shaft due to the teeth stripping out, or should I wait and pull apart the assembly and put eyes on the splines before I declare it dead?

Just as an additional FYI for you, when I pulled the bell housing off, I found that the sleeve of the bearing retainer plate that the throwout bearing rides on was cracked significantly, so I'm going to replace that too. After cracking the case and pulling the gear assembly out, I also noticed that the thin shield on the back side of the input bearing is also loose, separated from the bearing and rubbing against 4th gear but does not appear to have damaged it or been chewed up at all. The jeep only has about 76,000 miles on it, but I bought it used and have no idea how the P.O. might have driven it.

The gears all look good and since I have to break apart the gears to get to that hub and/or synchro rings anyway, I figured I would just go ahead and put a master rebuild kit into it and get it performing like new. I was going to order the kit and the 3/4 hub, but was hoping to get clarification on the likely state of the input shaft where that 3/4 hub rides so that I can order everything all at once.
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Unread 09-03-2014, 03:16 PM   #120
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First of all, complete the tear down and look for other signs of carnage. Likely you have stripped the outer splines on the 3-4 shift hub, and/or inside the sleeve, but you seem to have not stripped the inner splines of the shift hub off of the mainshaft. It would be the mainshaft you would damage, not the input shaft as the splines for the 3-4 shift hub are on the mainshaft. If you are able to slide the shift sleeve back and forth as to engage 3rd gear or 4th gear, you should be able to see the condition of the outer splines on the 3-4 hub, and if that hub does not move on the main shaft, then the hub didn't likely fail. You could have stripped off the splines from the inside of the 3-4 sleeve. Photo the "front" and "back" of that 3-4 sleeve as it only goes on ONE WAY and works right, if you reverse it you will likely pop out of 3rd. The chamfer is very subtle showing which way is front, and the sleeve is not symmetrical so even though it will go on both ways, it only works properly one way. Photo this a lot, post them up, etc.
Consider also that if you did strip the inner splines on the shift sleeve, it isn't likely the outer splines of the 3-4 shift hub are going to be undamaged, and you're likely going to have to replace both as a pair.
Don't worry about the issue with the ball race cover having fallen off, you will replace that bearing entirely with a master rebuild kit, and of course should order that kit now. You will know what else you will need when you complete the tear down. You will likely be getting your parts from different sources, so don't worry about making separate orders. I use the master rebuild kit from Transparts warehouse on ebay (about $290 with all seals, bearings, synchros and shift tabs), but the gears you may need can come from various sources depending on what it is you need. Likely you will need some different thickness snap rings here or there if you do replace the 3-4 hub, but won't know this until you are in reassembly mode anyway--so then making up to a 3rd order
I have a thread in the FAQ on the shift shafts and interlock pins if you need it, and somewhere in there I have another thread with all the snap ring part numbers and Toyota source equivalent part numbers in my NV3550 to AX15 TJ swap thread also in the FAQ on the YJ and the TJ forum.
I find the damage to your front bearing retainer odd. I can't imagine what application of force broke that, as it would require a significant up-down type force and the TO bearing merely slides longitudinally on it. Unless you happen to notice that your pilot bearing in the back of your crank shaft is missing. These transmissions are quite durable, and it is odd that you would have this degree of carnage at such low mileage on your AX 15. I've bought used front bearing retainers from ebay, prices vary widely so shop around. Crown makes them new but you can save money shopping around or visiting a Junk Yard, or local craigslist/jeep club. You can post up any ID numbers you find on the transmission, and we can confirm what year that tranny was built and whether or not it is orig to that Jeep.
Take tons of photos, and post up your findings and we'll talk you thru the rebuild.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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