Major Repair, Mean Max's AX-15 Rebuild QUESTION THREAD!!!! - Page 6 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 05-20-2012, 12:39 PM   #76
Soldierfoley
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Thanks again Max. You rock!

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Unread 05-21-2012, 12:01 AM   #77
kiddjeep
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AX-15 rebuild ?

Mean Max,

By far the most helpful info I've been able to find on the web regarding Jeep tranny rebuild. I know this is an AX-15, but my little 4 banger YJ has the anemic AX5 in it and so far your step by step rebuild has helped me every step of the way rebuilding that transmission. Question though...when installing that 5th gear, I know the 3 cut outs on the syncro ring had to be matched up with the 3 lockout tabs between the hub & shift collar, but does the 5th gear have to be aligned with something before it is pressed back onto the shaft? or can it be in any orientation as long as it is pressed far enough to receive the snap ring?

I'm not there yet in the rebuild, so I can't view for myself and just thinking ahead.

Thanks a ton!

Mike
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Unread 05-21-2012, 05:07 AM   #78
Mean Max
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The syncro is the only thing needing alignment. Just slide the gear on the shaft & you're good.

Max
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 05-29-2012, 04:13 PM   #79
TJBart
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Thank you Mean Max for the amazing AX-15 rebuild thread. I've read it through several times thinking I may need to go that way. I'm hoping you can help me diagnose my AX-15 issue - all these have cropped up in the past 2 weeks...... 166K miles, changed my fluid to Redline MT90 about a year and a half ago.

Upshifting in all gears is pretty smooth. Downshifting into third gives me a hard grind and sometimes once it gets into gear it is almost impossible to get out - takes a pretty significant force to pop it out. Other times it's no problem to get out.

If I double clutch it's a smooth downshift. Also, when I'm downshifting into 2nd you can feel a constant pulsing just before you put into gear.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'm a competent wrencher but would have to pull and rebuild the tranny in the driveway and garage and can't afford too much down time as it is one of our DDs. How much is reasonable to buy a reman AX-15 or pay someone to rebuild?

Thanks again.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 06:37 PM   #80
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJBart
changed my fluid to Redline MT90 about a year and a half ago.

Upshifting in all gears is pretty smooth. Downshifting into third gives me a hard grind and sometimes once it gets into gear it is almost impossible to get out - takes a pretty significant force to pop it out. Other times it's no problem to get out.

If I double clutch it's a smooth downshift. Also, when I'm downshifting into 2nd you can feel a constant pulsing just before you put into gear.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I'm a competent wrencher but would have to pull and rebuild the tranny in the driveway and garage and can't afford too much down time as it is one of our DDs. How much is reasonable to buy a reman AX-15 or pay someone to rebuild?

Thanks again.
I'm no fan of Redline, or Syncromesh fluids, even though they seem to be popular. I used Syncromesh a few years back to help nurse my ailing AX-15 along, and it only lead to me rebuilding it shortly thereafter, in my opinion.

I believe both your 2nd & 3rd gear issues are a result of worn syncros. For now, quit downshifting at all. In a lightweight vehicle it's completely unnecessary, although I do believe it's a good thing to do under normal circumstances. But for now, you can skip it.

I charge $650 at my shop for an AX-15 rebuild on a "carry-in" job. This is parts & labor for the bench build, with the owner pulling the transmission out & reinstalling it themselves.

Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 05-29-2012, 07:01 PM   #81
TJBart
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Thanks Max, if I lived in Florida I'd be walking in your shop this week.....
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Unread 05-29-2012, 07:45 PM   #82
Mean Max
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Originally Posted by TJBart
Thanks Max, if I lived in Florida I'd be walking in your shop this week.....
You're welcome. If I should win Lotto this week, I'll pay your way & repair it for you for free.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 12:40 PM   #83
kbson
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So has anyone ever done this? And can I recover gracefully?...
I got the output shaft put all back together. As I am admiring my work and putzing around with the 1st/2nd/rev sleeve, I start moving it back and forth to see if it is engaging the synchros correctly. I guess I applied a little too much force moving the sleeve toward 1st gear and the sleeve pops off the hub, and *twang* the 3 inserts/keys pop out and fall to the bench. Here are some pics showing what I am talking about:

http://flic.kr/p/dpvisS
http://flic.kr/p/dpvixA

First, is something worn out that should have prevented this from happening? Or is this normal since the shift fork is not there to restrict the movement?

Second, I don't really want to press all of the gears/bearings off the shaft again to fix this. I am able to line up the synchros with the hub/insert spaces and hold all 3 keys in place and slide the sleeve back where it should be. It's not easy with two hands, but I can do it. It looks like it should work to me, but is there anything I'm not thinking about that might cause trouble doing this?
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Unread 10-31-2012, 02:54 PM   #84
Opihi59
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No you don't have to disassemble the entire shaft assembly to do this. Yes it is annoying but it is do-able, even with just 2 hands, it just takes some patience. This will not happen in the case/fully assembled, the shift fork/rail will not allow that degree of movement to launch out the tabs.
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We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
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Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 11-02-2012, 08:38 AM   #85
Soldierfoley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbson View Post
So has anyone ever done this? And can I recover gracefully?...
I got the output shaft put all back together. As I am admiring my work and putzing around with the 1st/2nd/rev sleeve, I start moving it back and forth to see if it is engaging the synchros correctly. I guess I applied a little too much force moving the sleeve toward 1st gear and the sleeve pops off the hub, and *twang* the 3 inserts/keys pop out and fall to the bench. Here are some pics showing what I am talking about:

http://flic.kr/p/dpvisS
http://flic.kr/p/dpvixA

First, is something worn out that should have prevented this from happening? Or is this normal since the shift fork is not there to restrict the movement?

Second, I don't really want to press all of the gears/bearings off the shaft again to fix this. I am able to line up the synchros with the hub/insert spaces and hold all 3 keys in place and slide the sleeve back where it should be. It's not easy with two hands, but I can do it. It looks like it should work to me, but is there anything I'm not thinking about that might cause trouble doing this?
I did the exact same thing. It was a pain in the (donkey) but I managed getting it back together myself, and it was my first time ever working inside a transmission. You'll be fine. Just save the beer for after you finish.
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Unread 12-21-2012, 05:57 PM   #86
98zjkidd
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[QUOTE=Mean Max;9556359]I think you probably have a bad input shaft bearing, as in the pic below.


does anyone know where to get the c clips that hold those two bearings, just rebuilt mine and messed them up taking them off. thanks
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Unread 12-21-2012, 07:01 PM   #87
Opihi59
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Dealership. Somewhere at home I have the part numbers for you and will edit in. You will need to know what thickness you need.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 12-21-2012, 07:39 PM   #88
98zjkidd
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Thanks that would b awesome last thing I need to finish my 5apeed swap in the zj
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Unread 12-21-2012, 08:44 PM   #89
Opihi59
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Here you go, all inclusive list I compiled. Pick the position you need, then feeler gauge your slot to find the right thickness range, then match it to a part number and go to the Dealership with that data.


There are a lotta numbers associated with all the AX 15 snaprings, hopefully they transmit without too much confusion. They are marked A, B etc on the ring itselfwith an acid mark.



Snap ring for frontbearing (Input shaft)

A- 2.10-2.15 mm 0.0827-0.0846 inches PN 8350-6099

B- 2.15-2.20 0.0846-0.0866 8350-6214

C- 2.20-2.25 0.0866-0.0886 8350-6215

D- 2.25-2.30 0.0886-0.0906 8350-6216

E- 2.30-2.35 0.0906-0.0925 8350-6217

F- 2.35-2.40 0.0925-0.0945 8350-6218

G- 2.40-2.45 0.0945-0.0965 8350-6219



Front bearing oncluster gear

A- 2.00-2.05 0.0787-0.0807 PN 8350-6081

B- 2.05-2.10 0.0807-0.0827 8350-6082

C- 2.10-2.15 0.0827-0.0846 8350-6083

D- 2.15-2.20 0.0846-0.0866 8350-6084

E- 2.20-2.25 0.0866-0.0886 8350-6085



3-4 Synchro Hub snapring

A-1.80-1.85 0.0709-0.0728 PN 8350-6086

B- 1.85-1.90 0.0728-0.0748 8350-6087

C-1.90-1.95 0.0748-0.0768 8350-6088

D- 1.95-2.00 0.0768-0.0787 8350-6089

E- 2.00-2.05 0.0787-0.0807 8350-6090

F- 2.05-2.10 0.0807-0.0827 8350-6091

G- 2.10-2.15 0.0827-0.0846 8350-6092



1-2 Synchro Hub snapring (there is no “A”)

B- 2.35-2.40 0.0925-0.0945 PN 8350-6093

C- 2.40-2.45 0.0945-0.0965 8350-6094

D- 2.45-2.50 0.0965-0.0984 8350-6095

E- 2.50-2.55 0.0984-0.1004 8350-6096

F- 2.55-2.60 0.1004-0.1024 8350-6097

G- 2.60-2.65 0.1024-0.1043 8350-6098



5TH Gearsnap ring (13 of them, there is no “I” in this sequence. In another source, there is an I listed, andthe sequence goes only to “L” Caution isindicated here as I do not have a way of reconciling this variance. The astute Jeeper will notice there is apredictable progression in the thickness measurements, as well as the PN’shere. Hopefully this will not derail aproject, but in the end, you may need to purchase 2 sequential parts to get theone you need.

A- 2.75-2.80 0.083-0.1102 PN 8350-6268

B- 2.80-2.85 0.1102-0.1122 8350-6269

C- 2.85-2.90 0.1122-0.1142 8350-6270

D- 2.90-2.95 0.1142-0.1161 8350-6271

E- 2.95-3.00 0.1161-0.1181 8350-6272

F- 3.00-3.05 0.1181-0.1201 8350-6273

G- 3.05-3.10 0.1201-0.1220 8350-6274

H- 3.10-3.15 0.1220-0.1240 8350-6275

J- 3.15-3.20 0.1240-0.1260 8350-6276

K- 3.20-3.25 0.1260-0.1280 8350-6277

L- 3.25-3.30 0.1280-0.1299 8350-6278

M- 3.30-3.35 0.1299-0.1319 8350-6279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 01-19-2013, 02:39 PM   #90
iDriveYJ
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I have followed every step yet for some reason I can't get the main housing over the cluster bearing and main shaft bearing...yes the snap rings are off. I can get it to open up about .25 inch then nothing its just stuck. What could be holding it in?
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