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Unread 07-12-2010, 11:35 AM   #16
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
The point of this thread is for members to ask Mean Max questions, or general questions about the AX-15 rebuild without clogging up the write up itself.
You sir are a genius.

I had actually considered PM'ing you about doing this very thing, but I hadn't gotten around to it yet.

Thanks Rusty!

Max

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No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

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Unread 08-05-2010, 03:22 PM   #17
SpideYJeep
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Max,
I drained and replenished my AX15 tranny fluid as per your write-up. The old fluid was a bit frothy/milky and I think I know why - it's leaking from what (I think) the tranny joins the transfer case. Do I need to drop both the tranny and TC to reseal? RTV? Should I be looking/checking for anything else; i.e., damage; while there?
Thanks!
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My YJ is so excited it's leaking oil!
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Unread 08-05-2010, 03:32 PM   #18
Mean Max
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Originally Posted by SpideYJeep View Post
Max,
I drained and replenished my AX15 tranny fluid as per your write-up. The old fluid was a bit frothy/milky and I think I know why - it's leaking from what (I think) the tranny joins the transfer case. Do I need to drop both the tranny and TC to reseal? RTV? Should I be looking/checking for anything else; i.e., damage; while there?
Thanks!
The frothy white discoloration is usually consistent with water contamination. Most water intrusion happens in the shift tower, there is an oil seal that sits inside the shift tower which is usually degraded in most every AX-15 I've seen, and the small "boot" seal that seals the top of the tower to the shifter. Make sure that both of these seals are in good order to avoid water intrusion.

If you still feel like the problem is between the transmission & T-case, you can pull the T-case to make the repairs. No sealer (RTV, etc.) is needed. There is no seal made at the case seam, only on the shaft. The T-case input shaft seals the transmission at the rear housing with a simple lip seal that can be easily removed & replaced. There is also a lip seal on the T-case that seals the T-case fluid (ATF) in the T-case housing, this one can also be easily replaced.

Feel free to peruse my photobucket account for detailed photos for reference!

Hope this helps!

Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 04:29 PM   #19
SpideYJeep
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[QUOTE=Mean Max;9911504]The frothy white discoloration is usually consistent with water contamination. Most water intrusion happens in the shift tower, there is an oil seal that sits inside the shift tower which is usually degraded in most every AX-15 I've seen, and the small "boot" seal that seals the top of the tower to the shifter. Make sure that both of these seals are in good order to avoid water intrusion.
OK, can this be done from above or do I drop the tranny?

If you still feel like the problem is between the transmission & T-case, you can pull the T-case to make the repairs. No sealer (RTV, etc.) is needed. There is no seal made at the case seam, only on the shaft. The T-case input shaft seals the transmission at the rear housing with a simple lip seal that can be easily removed & replaced. There is also a lip seal on the T-case that seals the T-case fluid (ATF) in the T-case housing, this one can also be easily replaced.
Actually, I meant that the 10W30 that I just put in is leaking and not out of either of the drain/fill plugs and it seems as if the location is at a seam. I'll post a pic tomorrow or Saturday when I get under it with a camera so that you can verify.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 05:02 PM   #20
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpideYJeep View Post
OK, can this be done from above or do I drop the tranny?
Yes, from above is the way to do it. Remove the shifter boot & you can access all you need from the cab.

Actually, I meant that the 10W30 that I just put in is leaking and not out of either of the drain/fill plugs and it seems as if the location is at a seam. I'll post a pic tomorrow or Saturday when I get under it with a camera so that you can verify.

In this case, it would be the rear seal. Dropping the T-case will give you access to the rear seal.
Max
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Quote:
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Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 09:18 PM   #21
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Max, I removed the front bearing retainer on my AX-15 in the process of converting to an external slave. When I did, there are the remnants of a circular piece of metal with rubber material on the outside and inside edges. This seal or cover was around the input shaft, and apparently used to cover a portion of the side of the bearing. I looked at your rebuild thread, and did not see it on the pic of the input shaft after the bearing retainer was removed. I also looked at my parts diagram from the FSM and it only calls out the input shaft bearing, no additional seal. I assume this means that this cover was built on the bearing.

There looks to be some rubbery residue inside the bearing retainer where it collected near the bottom, and the consistency of the rubber matches that from the seal or cover that was at the input shaft bearing.

Do I need to replace the input shaft bearing so that it has this cover, or can I just carefully clean the remnant of the rubber off the bearing and continue with the conversion?

Thanks for the help.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 09:46 PM   #22
Mean Max
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Originally Posted by Supertrey View Post
Max, I removed the front bearing retainer on my AX-15 in the process of converting to an external slave. When I did, there are the remnants of a circular piece of metal with rubber material on the outside and inside edges. This seal or cover was around the input shaft, and apparently used to cover a portion of the side of the bearing. I looked at your rebuild thread, and did not see it on the pic of the input shaft after the bearing retainer was removed. I also looked at my parts diagram from the FSM and it only calls out the input shaft bearing, no additional seal. I assume this means that this cover was built on the bearing.

There looks to be some rubbery residue inside the bearing retainer where it collected near the bottom, and the consistency of the rubber matches that from the seal or cover that was at the input shaft bearing.

Do I need to replace the input shaft bearing so that it has this cover, or can I just carefully clean the remnant of the rubber off the bearing and continue with the conversion?

Thanks for the help.
It's the bearing seal, or "cover" if you will. Every AX-5 & AX-15 I've ever had apart has had a disintegrated bearing seal. I would replace all bearings any time I had a transmission apart. That's just my policy though, it's to labor intensive to not do it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 08-16-2010, 09:53 PM   #23
Supertrey
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OK. I completely agree with the replacing when apart. Money is getting tight on this little conversion, too many unanticipated items have occurred (but that is how the projects always go, isn't it!) so if I need to leave the bearings for now, is it ok to run without the seal?
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Unread 08-17-2010, 12:22 PM   #24
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertrey View Post
OK. I completely agree with the replacing when apart. Money is getting tight on this little conversion, too many unanticipated items have occurred (but that is how the projects always go, isn't it!) so if I need to leave the bearings for now, is it ok to run without the seal?
Under those conditions, yes it would be fine to use it. The presence of the seal or not will not affect it's performance.

Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 08-17-2010, 03:12 PM   #25
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Couple of questions:

General Question: I clearly can see and understand why everyone doesn't like the internal slave cylinder since it is a pain to replace specifically if you are on a trail. But do these fail often? I don't mind replacing it as long as it isn't going to fail on me in a year.

2nd Technical Question: I have '93 AX-15 with slave starting to leak. I also have access to the Bellhousing, Clutch Fork, Master - Slave setup from a later TJ (around 2000 model year). I was told the bellhousing is the same between AX-15 and NV3550 is that true? From the parts I have will I just need the external Slave bearing cover for my AX trans then use the NV3550 bellhousing and hydraulics? With a TJ Cluth Master fit a '93 tub?

3rd Question: AX-15 has some gear grind / crunch in some gears in some situations. Because of this I figure I might as well rebuild while I pull to replace slave. Would you recommend the complete Master Rebuild Kit that they show on places like Quadratec? Original Replacement Parts AX15-MASKI - Transmission Master Rebuild Kit with Gaskets & Seals for 89-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & TJ with AX-15 5 Speed Transmission - Quadratec
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Unread 08-17-2010, 03:24 PM   #26
Mean Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRMJeep View Post
Couple of questions:

General Question: I clearly can see and understand why everyone doesn't like the internal slave cylinder since it is a pain to replace specifically if you are on a trail. But do these fail often? I don't mind replacing it as long as it isn't going to fail on me in a year.
We have 2 YJs at our house that we have put almost 100k miles on (collectively, not each) in the 3 or so years since we bought them. My wife's has had the fewest miles put on at about 30k, and mine has had about 70k added to it's odometer. Her internal slave has not failed since we've had it, and mine was working fine until I replaced it as part of my Luk clutch kit installation 40k ago. My YJ did have an OEM master cylinder failure about 50k ago, and I replaced it with the cheapest (Rhinopac) one RockAuto Auto Parts sells. It is fine except for a slight seepage at the hose/O-ring connection on the master.

2nd Technical Question: I have '93 AX-15 with slave starting to leak. I also have access to the Bellhousing, Clutch Fork, Master - Slave setup from a later TJ (around 2000 model year). I was told the bellhousing is the same between AX-15 and NV3550 is that true? From the parts I have will I just need the external Slave bearing cover for my AX trans then use the NV3550 bellhousing and hydraulics? With a TJ Cluth Master fit a '93 tub?
Yes, the NV3550 uses the same bolt pattern bellhousing as the AX-15. The TJ master will not fit, but you can use the YJ '94-'95 pre-bled master/hose/slave combo kit.

3rd Question: AX-15 has some gear grind / crunch in some gears in some situations. Because of this I figure I might as well rebuild while I pull to replace slave. Would you recommend the complete Master Rebuild Kit that they show on places like Quadratec? Original Replacement Parts AX15-MASKI - Transmission Master Rebuild Kit with Gaskets & Seals for 89-99 Jeep® Wrangler YJ & TJ with AX-15 5 Speed Transmission - Quadratec

I usually buy my rebuild parts from:

Southwest Gear
11109 Dyer Street
El Paso, Tx. 79934

1-877-432-7748
Max
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimatE View Post
Max has a picture of every Jeep part ever made.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benderff View Post
No one here knows what they are talking about. You should try Pirate 4x4 they will be happy to help you.

There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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Unread 08-31-2010, 05:43 PM   #27
Supertrey
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Max, what is your opinion of rebuilding the AX15 vs swapping for NV3550?
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Unread 09-15-2010, 11:36 AM   #28
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Max,
First off, thank you very much for the writeup. I just followed it and rebuild my 15 from my TJ.

Exerything reassembled just as it should (seeing as it only goes together one way), but i noticed an anomaly with the replacement syncros.

The kit i used was a motive gear Ax-15 kit, but some of the syncros looked directional as opposed to the original. I mean the teeth, not the beveled edge.

After reassembly and installation into the vehicle, i now have really bad grinding and reverse will not diesengage. I assume that this is related to the directional syncros, but figured i would ask you since you are the 'go to guy'.

I can snap some pics of the directional syncros but first i need to repull my trans...

Thanks
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Unread 09-15-2010, 02:13 PM   #29
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ok, so i solved the reverse thing... that was user error. My reverse idler somehow was not on the arm that actuated it. The question remains about the syncros with the large teeth vs the smaller teeth. Right now i have the large toothed syncro on the 5th gear sprocket, and the two with the smaller teeth on the front sprocket syncros...

disregard my silly questions... i found that the fifth gear needs the smaller toothed syncro, fourth gear needs the large tooth... i think
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Unread 09-30-2010, 02:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheelmatt View Post
You may want to consider that it might be the rear output seal from the tranny. When I bought my jeep the previous owner had overfilled the tranny so every time I went to check the tranny fluid it was full. It was slowly coming out of the tranny though. It took me a while to pinpoint just where the leak was coming from though. Once everything would get wet from the leak, it was really difficult to tell where the mess came from.
Max - I think this answers my question on your basic maintenance sticky. Or, maybe it's blowing out through the vent hole?
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