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Old 04-22-2009, 08:10 PM   #1
lckdrgn
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Lower hinge bolt need removal?

I've check "search" to get to the inside nuts to install remote mirror brackets.

One stated to remove glove box and instrument (tach) to get to bolts. Someone else remove the whole dash to get to speakers.

I'll take any input to help with this issue. I can only reach one nut passenger side.

Thanks

Kelly

Luck Dragon

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Old 04-22-2009, 08:57 PM   #2
Cyberknox
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I just removed mine on both sides and it was a p.i.t.a. I did it with no dash in at all since I am in the middle of restoring my YJ. The biggest issue is all the filler or seam sealer (cannot think of the right word at the moment) all over the nuts. That makes getting a wrench or socket on them a fight. I do not envy those who have done it with the dash on. I would get a long handle flat head screw driver and scrape the nuts as much as you can and contort your body under the dash and go from there. One thing I did to get the filler to start coming out was just spin the lower hinge bolts by just trying to loosen them from the outside with a torx bit. Removing the dash is work also, but it will make it A LOT easier.
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:20 PM   #3
Opihi59
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You don't have to completely remove dash, but you do need to pop it loose. It gets rather annoying. First off, unbolt the front rollbar extensions from the inside of the windshield frame, then remove the tabs on both sides of the dash--those clover leaf metal braces held in place by 3 bolts, then you can flop your windshield forward onto a cushion or something. This then exposes a row of fasteners across the top of the dash that you remove. That being done, you can pull your dash inwards into the passenger compartment one side at a time and this will allow you to get access to the lower hinge nuts.
If you are able to get the upper hinge bolts out from your windshield frame, you can remove the windshield assembly and not have to stack a buncha cushions under it so you can still reach under from the outside to get the torx loose, or drill them out which is what usually happens. ( I hate Torx....) This is also a good time to replace the cowl seal under the windshield frame.
Remember that the windshield bolts are frozen in with Red Locktite or equivalent. Heat helps, or is often necessary.
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yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:30 PM   #4
Joe Dillard
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I removed the first torx head bolt by myself & I'll say it was a PITA.

Do yourself a favor & just drill 'em out. It's not like you'll want to reuse the same bolts. 2-3 minutes per bolt if that & you're done. IIRC, I used a 1/4" drill bit.

Then go to your local hardware store & get some quality grade 8 replacement bolts - that's what I did.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:19 PM   #5
JIBTEXHNKA
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i'm in the process of replacing all the windshield hinge bolts with hex heads on my CJ right now, and i couldn't find countersunk hex head bolts at any local hardware store. i ended up going to Tacoma Screw and they had tons of them.

what is everyone those with, and where are you getting them?

and i guess to stay on topic... i thought those lower hinge bolts sucked on my CJ... and the space under there is mostly empty. trying to do the YJ made me borderline suicidal.
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Old 04-25-2009, 01:35 PM   #6
lckdrgn
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looks like i need to remove dash. What a pain for three bolts. I'll be working on next weekend.
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:36 AM   #7
lckdrgn
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making a custom long 1/2 inch wrench to night to try and reach nuts. Try that first . PITA
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Old 05-01-2009, 07:49 AM   #8
Sep
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I've JUST completed that task this passed weekend. The best way was told to be by Rusty.

Drop the windshield, pull the dash bolts, three on the sides near the speakers and the ones on top of the dash. You'll need a T-30, T-35, and t-40. That's the best way. However, do yourself a favor and drill them out. Mine didn't have the "sealer" on them but still refused to come apart without my Napa T-40 eating the heads. Drill them out with a 3/8" bit and get about a fourth of the way into them. Use a punch and hammer it. It'll blow the nut and threads off the heads and you'll have a hole! Just replace with new bolts like I did.

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Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
Pic of under the windsheild


Here's a snap of my setup now.



I just used some 3/8 bolts and ran lock washers on the back sides. It really worked out nice and the tight fitting bolts were perfect. I reused the heads I drilled to give a better base inside the mount's hold. Just put what was left on the bolt so it'd have less play after bolting down. If my SD card didn't take a dump on me I would have had a great write-up for you there.

You can then pull the sides of the dash, one side at a time. You'll have to remove the center piece above the steering wheel and that's two phillips heads JUST like the ones under the windshield. Also, there are smaller torx heads underthere, I believe T-20's. You can pull the dash out one side at a time and those bolts are MUCH easier to reach. However, I'll still recommend just drilling them out as they are a PITA no matter what you do! I'd recommend picking up some speakers and replacing them like I did. I replaced mine just because I had the dash where I could easily replace them. I found a set of 4x6 sony Xplods at walmart on clearance for 20 bucks. Here's a pick of them installed. They are EASY to install with the dash propped sideways like you can do there.



I hope this helps bud.

I accidently clicked the "submit post" button instead of preview, so I had to edit this to add the last bit of information for you.

Tools needed :

Torx set
Phillips screwdriver
Deep well socket to fit speaker nuts
Solder gun (to fit connectors to speakers)
Drill/replacement bolts for the relocation mounts
PATIENCE....
And of course, PB Blaster!
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Last edited by Sep; 05-01-2009 at 07:59 AM.. Reason: Clicked the wrong button, submit instead of preview LOL
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Old 05-03-2009, 11:23 AM   #9
lckdrgn
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We made it!!! I took a little from everyone and with great help from the wife we got the remote mirror brackets in. I can't post pics yet. I diid remove the side screws. Used a 3/8 extention to raise the sides enough, that the wife could get a flare wrench(1/2) on the nuts. Speaker magnets were a pain. I'm lucky YJ has been stored inside it whole life, no rust, I was able to break all screws out with little problem. A little WD40 on threads going back together made a huge difference. Now ready to go topless next month with the better weather.

Thanks ALL for all the input.

Kelly

Luck Dragon

Last edited by lckdrgn; 05-03-2009 at 11:35 AM.. Reason: spl.
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Old 05-03-2009, 06:06 PM   #10
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Congrats man, Mine were a paint because of painted threads I believe. It was a pain, so I drilled! Happy wheelin` without doors now! And think, it's LEGAL!
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