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#1 | |
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Registered User
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lots of questions
First off, I have a 93 YJ, 1.5" lift shackles, and 31" tires on 15x8 wheels with 4" or so backspacing. also have bigger flares, rear are TJ style.
my future plans are to get the 4.5" XD RE lift, 33's (maybe a body lift and 35's), stronger axles (still D30 and D35), auto locker in the front, and selectable in the rear I'd like to space things out, so that I don't have to spend like $3,000 in a day =/, so my plan is this. 1. Get driveline problems out of the way with a SYE/CV driveshaft. Can I do this without having a lift? Would I need the CV driveshaft? 2. Get lift+tires. I have 4.10's so it'll suck for awhile, but oh well. 3.Get stronger axles/lockers/gears. I want to stay with the D30 and D35 because I can't weld and if i go to D44 or Ford 8.8, im gonna have to weld. Are there any packages you can get? Like a Super 35 with a locker and 4.88's, so that its just a bolt in kinda thing? 4. What about a traction bar? 5. What are good brands for the lockers? I wouldn't mind having an air locker in the back, cuz then I could use the compressor to air up my tires. That's all I can think of. Thanks for the help.
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#2 |
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Registered User
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First of all, patience is the key here. You'll be MUCH happier in the end knowing you did it right the first time.
Rather than spending money here and there and doing things in the wrong order just WAIT untill you have enough money to LEAST do the lift and SYE/CV all in one sitting. After you do that, you can get your axles later. In my opinion, you have your lockers backwards. I would go with the full selectable in the front, and the auto locker in the back. I would not spend one single dime on that D35. Leave the 30 up front for now and get an 8.8. Locker brands are pretty easy. The best selectable locker is an ARB or an OX. The best automatic FULL locker is a Detroit.
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'93 YJ '98 ZJ '92 Toy |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I agree. Do the lift in combination with SYE and CV driveshaft. That way your driveline is set up with your lift rather than without it. If your looking to go up 3 more inches after you set up your driveline the ideal length for your driveshaft will change (increases so would make your shaft shorter).
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My Build Up 95 YJ, D30/8.8 w/ 4.88s, SOA, 35x14.50x16.5 Pit Bull Mud Dawgs, 101" Wheelbase, Custom Front Bumper, Winch, Custom Rear Tow Points, Traction Bar, Aussie Locker in front, 20 Gal. Gas Tank modification, Hurculiner Tub, Custom Rear Bumper, SYE and CV shaft, BTF Cross-over Steering, RCI 2191 fuel cell, BTF Rockers, RE 1.5" SOA springs up front and XJ springs in the rear Down the line a bit...engine swap, the list goes on. |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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ull want to do ur lift and things of that sort before u order ur sye and cv driveshaft. becuase ull want to measure the lenght to make sure its the correct lenght. also if ur planning on adding a new rear axle that would be the correct time also.
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93 YJ- SOA, R.E 1.5" Leafs, Custom paint, 35x16 Boggers,15x10 97 series rockcrawlers. Diamond plated interior and exterior, Tera SYE/CV DS, Herculined Tub, Bestop, Warn Bumpers w/ 9.5ti, 8.8" rear, D30 front, both ARB's with 4:88's, Super 88, Posi-Lok, Alpine Stereo, Tuffy Security, Hella Fogs, ProComp Spots, and much more. 07 2500HD D-Max CC LB Black Ranchhand Bumpers, MBRP 5" Straight Piped Exhaust, Edge Evo, N-fabs, 305/65/18 BFGs on Black Motos, much more soon to come! (Sold)03 Z71- 33x12 BFG Muds, American Racing Victor Teflons, K&N intake, Gibson Exhaust, Ranchand bumpers, Hypertech programmed, Hella Spots, 12" JL sub, and much more. |
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