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post #1 of 7 Old 10-09-2002, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
K&L
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Loose body bolt

I originally asked this over in the suspension area but no one seems to have any ideas. When I was removing the body bolts to install a 1 inch lift, one of the bolts backed out about a inch but the nut is now spinning in the holder. This happens to be the right side just behind the front wheel, so I can reach the top of it to feel it and soak it with WD-40. Any suggestions on the best way to get this bugger out?


Kevin
87 YJ, 4.2L w/ Nutter , 5sp, 1'body lift
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post #2 of 7 Old 10-09-2002, 09:42 AM
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If you can feel it and soak it with WD40 .. can you not reach a socket on an elbow (if required) to reach the bottom of the nut?

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post #3 of 7 Old 10-09-2002, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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I wish I could. The nut is probably a square piece of steel that floats between the body and a thin steel cap that was to hold it down and still allow for movement at the factory. All the others move around slightly, but this one moves and spins as well, it may have rusted or rounded the corners off trying to remove it. I may have to cut it and drill it....

Kevin
87 YJ, 4.2L w/ Nutter , 5sp, 1'body lift
31X10.50 BFG AT'
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post #4 of 7 Old 10-10-2002, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Okay just in case anyone else runs into this issue installing a body lift, here is what I found out. The body nuts are square blocks of theaded steel about 1.5x1.5 inches. They float between a small indent in the body and have a thin steel cover over them that allows it to move. The front most body mounts ( the one right behind the front wheel) are open from below and mud, dirt and other crap can build up in there so it would be a good spot to clean out after a good muddin. I had to use a cut off tool to remove the bolt head and then pound the stud up into the void above it to remove it. The last two rounds of threads on the bolt were rusted pretty bad. Also I avoided the problem on the other side by NOT using an impact wrench, the torque from it caused the thin steel cap to flair and allow it to spin. On the others, alot of WD-40 and work it slowly with a ratchet, couple of turns out and back in so you can feel what is happening.

May sound like auto repair 101, but if it helps someone all the better!

Kevin
87 YJ, 4.2L w/ Nutter , 5sp, 1'body lift
31X10.50 BFG AT'
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post #5 of 7 Old 10-10-2002, 06:35 AM
Bob K
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I'd like to know a solution also. I would like to change the body mount in that location. But mine is spinning also. Best solution I've heard so far is to cut a hole in the floor of the Jeep to access the top. If I remember where I saw it I'll provide a link. But I don't like that idea myself, so I'm waiting for a better idea. Anybody?

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post #6 of 7 Old 10-10-2002, 07:33 AM Thread Starter
K&L
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In removing the cap over the nut, there are two small holes, one on either side. It may be possible to put a pair of bolts through this to tighten it done some, just a thought. After you get it apart things always seem simple, but I too was thinking about cutting a hole in the floorboard

Kevin
87 YJ, 4.2L w/ Nutter , 5sp, 1'body lift
31X10.50 BFG AT'
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post #7 of 7 Old 10-10-2002, 03:38 PM
Bob K
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If it's a plate rather than just a nut is it possible to drill and run a few sheet metal screws thru to hold it from turning?

'87 Wrangler YJ 4.2 I6 (sorry, sold)
JuiceBox ignition
2 1/2" ProComp Lift
31" BFG A/T's
K&N Filter
Custom Rock Guards
Turbo Muffler
Rear Track Bar in the shed
Other Tricks I won't tell to just anybody!

'99 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8
Towing Package
K&N FIPK
ProComp MX6 shocks
Borla Exhaust
Tow Hooks
Alpine CD with Infinity+iPod connect
Just getting started!

If you're not living on the edge...
you're taking up too much space.
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