LOCKERS: front or rear? - JeepForum.com
View Poll Results: Which axle should be locked first?
FRONT: Dana 30 30 65.22%
REAR: Ford 8.8 16 34.78%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll

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post #1 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
warthog312
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LOCKERS: front or rear?

Ok, so I'm deep in my project: Honeybadger. The long and the short of it is Ford 302 5.0, NP435, Dana 20, 8.8. All the drivetrain except the driveshafts are all together and in. Now I must turn my attention to the axles.

My new 8.8 rear has factory LSD that actually is in very good condition. The front Dana 30 is open, still with 2 piece shafts; but has a Rusty's posi-lock vacuum eliminator cable kit. I am in the future going to go with one piece shafts up front, but as time and money allow I need to finish this thing and get it back on (and off) the road, so that will have to wait for now.

Here's my question, I can afford one locker, which axle do I lock, with which kind of locker, and why?

I know a fair amount about lockers and the like, but I'd like to get everyone's opionions on the forum as to what works, what doesn't, etc.
The Jeep will see some street use around town when it's nice and sunny and/or blizzard conditions in winter, so full time spools and the sort are not an option.

So, let's hear what you all have to say! Thanks!


Click for build thread: HONEYBADGER - 302//435//20//8.8
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post #2 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 09:21 AM
Dake
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Id Just run the LSD for now and lock the front axle.

Waiting on my Rough Country lift to sag!
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post #3 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dake View Post
Id Just run the LSD for now and lock the front axle.
That's what I was leaning towards.

My only concern with that is, V8 power+ two piece shafts+ small u joints+ big tires+ locker = BOOOOM.

I don't know if that front is ready to handle all that!

Click for build thread: HONEYBADGER - 302//435//20//8.8
>>>the single greatest investment you can make for your jeep is to buy a good welder, and learn how to use it<<<
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post #4 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 09:51 AM
remmons
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A selectable air locker would be the way to go up front. Running an LSD 8.8 will require a little brake action in order for the traction wheel to spin, thus making the use of a heavier throttle. With that in mind, you might want to upgrade your front D30 while you can, that's if you are going to wheel it hard.

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Last edited by remmons; 08-20-2013 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Removed the quote.
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post #5 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 09:57 AM
SeanB95YJ
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another thing to consider is your budget... you didn't mention, when you say "I can afford one locker", are you budgeting based on the price of a full carrier type locker (like a Detroit) or pricing of a lucnhbox locker (Spartan, Aussie, etc)

reason I'm asking that is, for the D30 you can go either way... but for the 8.8, being you currently have a LS rear, you don't have the option of a "traditional" lunchbox type locker... you either go with full carrier replacement (Detroit, ARB etc) or you go with the one and only lunchbox type locker made for that LS rear (IF it's still made)... and if I recall, it's a pretty hefty price for that lunchbox-in-the-LS locker... at that point better off replacing the carrier

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/a...hread-1542284/
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post #6 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ
another thing to consider is your budget... you didn't mention, when you say "I can afford one locker", are you budgeting based on the price of a full carrier type locker (like a Detroit) or pricing of a lucnhbox locker (Spartan, Aussie, etc)

reason I'm asking that is, for the D30 you can go either way... but for the 8.8, being you currently have a LS rear, you don't have the option of a "traditional" lunchbox type locker... you either go with full carrier replacement (Detroit, ARB etc) or you go with the one and only lunchbox type locker made for that LS rear (IF it's still made)... and if I recall, it's a pretty hefty price for that lunchbox-in-the-LS locker... at that point better off replacing the carrier
My budget is exactly that, "one locker". I don't have a price set per-se, but I know I can only afford one at the moment in the interest of not blowing my cash wad all at once into the axles and slowing the overall project.

I've heard from the old timers that back in the day guys use to throw extra clutch packs into the LSD in the Ford, essentially making it tighter and more "locker-like". I may give this a try.

Click for build thread: HONEYBADGER - 302//435//20//8.8
>>>the single greatest investment you can make for your jeep is to buy a good welder, and learn how to use it<<<
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post #7 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:32 AM
SeanB95YJ
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ok was just clarifying, because for the D30, a lunchbox type locker I believe runs somewhere in the $250-300 range while a full carrier locker will run $550-600 and up depending on which type.

and for the 8.8, a full carrier locker will be in a similar price range (550+) where the LSD replacement lunchbox locker was (last I saw) somewhere around 400-450... which at that price, better off to wait for the extra few bucks to get the full carrier

Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
swap/build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/a...hread-1542284/
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post #8 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ
ok was just clarifying, because for the D30, a lunchbox type locker I believe runs somewhere in the $250-300 range while a full carrier locker will run $550-600 and up depending on which type.

and for the 8.8, a full carrier locker will be in a similar price range (550+) where the LSD replacement lunchbox locker was (last I saw) somewhere around 400-450... which at that price, better off to wait for the extra few bucks to get the full carrier
Yup. My biggest concern with a lunchbox is safety when driving on the street in winter conditions. Snow and ice do not bode well for lockers.

Click for build thread: HONEYBADGER - 302//435//20//8.8
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post #9 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:44 AM
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Front or rear? Yes.

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post #10 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Front or rear? Yes.
Good idea. Just Paypal me about a grand and it'll be done in a week. Cool thanks.

Click for build thread: HONEYBADGER - 302//435//20//8.8
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post #11 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:51 AM
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Are you waiting to install gears or are they already done?

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post #12 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
Are you waiting to install gears or are they already done?
4.11:1 will be plenty with the 302. And the NP435 is 6.61:1 in first gear, so I think I'm as deep as I'll need to be on 35's.

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post #13 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog312 View Post
My only concern with that is, V8 power+ two piece shafts+ small u joints+ big tires+ locker = BOOOOM.
Theres nothing weaker about the two piece shaft. Ive yet to see a shaft break at the disconnect splines. The 'little' ujoints arent the "fuse' people make them out to be. The shafts usually go at the diff splines.

This brings up a point. Do you see yourself keeping the dana 30 for the long run? If you dont see investing in a front swap (the 8.8 is a little limiting when it comes to this) then go ahead and put money into it. If you see another set of axles in the future then dont bother poring money into it. A lunchbox in the front is the easiest and cheapest to do.

This brings up another point. Are you doing your own work? Do you have axle building experience? If you plan to do this yourself and have little experience and would like to gain a bit, then the front lunchbox locker is the way to go. Its relatively straight forward. You don't need to mess with the gear setup but you do need to pull the shafts and carrier. Depending on ring gear size you might need to remove it from the carrier. If you plan to swap shafts etc later this is a good first time project. For some the dana 30 lunchbox locker is the best thing they've done to their jeeps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by remmons View Post
A selectable air locker would be the way to go up front.
This used to be the popular notion but things are trending back to the autolocker up front. You dont have to keep hitting the switch it does the work and its pretty invisible in 2Wdrive. Ive used an auto up front for many years and Im switching to selectable only because it came with a matching front and rear thirdmember.

On a purely theoretical basis with none of the above factors involved and you had to pick one or the other, id do the rear.

-insert meaningless out-of-place political diatribe-
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post #14 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 02:16 PM
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Ok.

I run an ECTED up front and its pretty much pulled me through just about everything but this:


I needed rocks stacked for it even with the truetrac in the rear. It was that point that I noticed that I needed lockers front and rear for the type of off roading I do. With your limited slip in the rear, snow driving is a lot more controlled than with open differentials and if you installed an ECTED up front it defaults to a clutch based limited slip and locks up like a spool at the flick of a switch. It may be just what you need for your situation.

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post #15 of 43 Old 08-20-2013, 04:53 PM
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If he goes one piece shafts in the front can he still use the ''lunchbox locker''.I have the Spartan in the front and i switched to the one piece and it ruined my streetabilty (kept locking up on road) and i had to take it back it out.Is this normal,or just an issue i was having?
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